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The Stupid Question Thread
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Koeppler
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 7:19 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

My stupid question is: What can lead to excessive endplay in a motor with under 3k miles?

For the sake of this question assume the motor was set up correctly and endplay was verified by several people with a dial indicator to .004" but that within 3k miles it has increased to .008". It's a stock dual port 1600 with everything balanced and a new Brazilian case using Silverline bearings.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 7:57 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Koeppler wrote:
My stupid question is: What can lead to excessive endplay in a motor with under 3k miles?

For the sake of this question assume the motor was set up correctly and endplay was verified by several people with a dial indicator to .004" but that within 3k miles it has increased to .008". It's a stock dual port 1600 with everything balanced and a new Brazilian case using Silverline bearings.


I am going to guess you had some crude between the shims that effected the initial endplay and once the crud worked its way out, the endplay jumped up by several thousandths.
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Koeppler
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 9:25 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Koeppler wrote:
My stupid question is: What can lead to excessive endplay in a motor with under 3k miles?

For the sake of this question assume the motor was set up correctly and endplay was verified by several people with a dial indicator to .004" but that within 3k miles it has increased to .008". It's a stock dual port 1600 with everything balanced and a new Brazilian case using Silverline bearings.


I am going to guess you had some crude between the shims that effected the initial endplay and once the crud worked its way out, the endplay jumped up by several thousandths.


Maybe so! I hadn't thought of that.

So other than an assembly or measurement error, a bad bearing, or an imperfect case, there's not really anything else that causes endplay to grow?

If it matters the measurement is slightly different at different points in the rotation of the crank. .008" is the largest measurement and .006" is the smallest.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 10:22 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Koeppler wrote:

If it matters the measurement is slightly different at different points in the rotation of the crank. .008" is the largest measurement and .006" is the smallest.


I would say that that is odd. Don't think I have ever checked the endplay by setting the crank in different positions though, so that may be something that I have just missed noticing. I would recommend not trying to tighten down on the endplay and getting it below spec at any point of rotation of the crankshaft.
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KentPS Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 12:59 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I found the answer to my stupid question from yesterday. And it turned out to be a bone-headed answer...
When I disconnected the positive lead from the battery to the starter, I neglected to re-install one of the other wires at the starter. Embarassed
So put it back on, and all is well.

BBB, here we come!
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Spike0180
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 1:24 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

KentPS wrote:
I found the answer to my stupid question from yesterday. And it turned out to be a bone-headed answer...
When I disconnected the positive lead from the battery to the starter, I neglected to re-install one of the other wires at the starter. Embarassed
So put it back on, and all is well.

BBB, here we come!


Whoop Whoop! Have fun! Post some pictures for us bussless people (for the winter) up in the great white north.
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cv66seabear
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 3:19 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Double check the plug on your voltage regulator after that bozo in the boot pulled it out last week. Make sure itís seated all the way in, and give it a careful unplug then plug for good measure. (Usually that can clean the contacts just enough to be useful.)

Bozo


Thought you meant me! Smile
Sure wish I could have driven out - I could be there too! Photos Please!
Way to troubleshoot, Kent!
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Terminatez
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 3:43 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Is there anything that locks the hinge pin that is hold the gas pedal to the floor?

I cant seem to push our the pin holding the hinge together. I tried WD40, a screwdriver and a hammer and it wont budge.

Anyone have any tips on a stuck pin most likely due to rust? Thanks.
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I don't think I've ever seen an engine in worse shape.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 4:07 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Terminatez wrote:
Is there anything that locks the hinge pin that is hold the gas pedal to the floor?

I cant seem to push our the pin holding the hinge together. I tried WD40, a screwdriver and a hammer and it wont budge.

Anyone have any tips on a stuck pin most likely due to rust? Thanks.

You have to lift the spring out of the groove in the middle of the pin to release it, but if yours isn't even wiggling it's likely fused in by rust. More PB blaster, hammering, etc....
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Terminatez
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 4:56 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

The spring turned to dust already. So I guess I'll just let it sit on penetrating oil. Thanks
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1972 Westfalia P30 hardtop Campmobile [On-going Restoration]
aeromech wrote:
I don't think I've ever seen an engine in worse shape.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 5:02 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Terminatez wrote:
The spring turned to dust already. So I guess I'll just let it sit on penetrating oil. Thanks

If you can lay the pedal back for access you can drill a few small shallow holes along the top of the hinge to get the penetrating oil into the middle where it'll do some good. You can also try squishing the hinge slightly with large vice grips to flex it and break the rust bond.
WD-40 is good for keeping your missile dry, not so good for severly rusted joints, PB Blaster or LPS-1 is a better choice, even 50/50 Acetone and ATF seems to work better than WD.
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Terminatez
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 5:15 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Got it thanks.

I think I'm going to drill a small hole on each side instead of the vice grip method.

Right, it's just what I had laying around. Going to bring from PB Blaster tomorrow.

First I'm going to let it sit with PB instead though, if I cant get that done I'll drill.

Btw, anyone have any experience using,

AcceleratorMod from Rusties Autowerkstatt
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2099025
vs
Buttybits
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1943615

I see a lot of info on the Buttybits ones, both are within my budget. Trying to see what the difference between them in terms of quality.
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1972 Westfalia P30 hardtop Campmobile [On-going Restoration]
aeromech wrote:
I don't think I've ever seen an engine in worse shape.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 5:25 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Haven't seen that one before, but it looks like it'll do everything you need it to for quite a while.
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Terminatez
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 5:56 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Whats... lowlight?
I see on his website it states "Lowlight AcceleratorMod" and a different one just called "AcceleratorMod".

Is this a common term I should know, or is this just different models for his product?

Edit:
Nvm, I should have searched first.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/archive/index.php/o-t--t-464588--start-0--index.html
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aeromech wrote:
I don't think I've ever seen an engine in worse shape.
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Convoy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 4:29 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I picked up the oversized 8mm CSP fuel tank outlet kit which includes the sealing washer, spigot and nut. Found here
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C31-298-221-113A

I'm revisiting this question again I had as I have reservations to what side the reddish color washer goes on. I'm not using a mesh filter like picture below as it wasn't included, unless I need it to properly seal.

The reddish washer resides either on the tank side or nut side as follows;

1. Tank + red washer + metal spigot flange + nut
2. Tank + metal spigot flange + red washer + nut


Wildthings I believe you mentioned its No. 1, though CSP emailed back with an old diagram illustrating the following.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



It didn't come with a mesh filter, so if i install the spigot according to CSP the metal flange would mate up to the tank. So I ask what side does the red washer go onto? as this could be a deadly situation if not properly sealed.

UPDATE:
I may of figured it out though please correct if I'm wrong.

I need to pick up another sealing washer so the Spigot flange is sandwiched.
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111209139
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 5:41 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

If you are deleting the screen you'll need some sort of alternative soft item in that joint to act as a seal, the red washer may suffice, but it's really just supplied as more of a bearing between the nut and spigot to make torquing smooth, how fuel resistant it may be is something I doubt even the manufacturer will admit they know. A soft copper or aluminum washer will work best between the spigot and tank, or poke some holes in the screen and use it if you are bent on no screen.
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67ctbug
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 8:21 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

https://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/cto/d/68-vwbus-project/6408024859.html

Stupid question: Could you really order a bus with no slider? Seems a bit stupid to me...
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 8:49 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

67ctbug wrote:
https://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/cto/d/68-vwbus-project/6408024859.html

Stupid question: Could you really order a bus with no slider? Seems a bit stupid to me...

No, that one has been discussed here before, too much beer and bondo as well as time on someone's hands.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Wanted, OG paint 1971 Niagara blue decklid.

Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
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67ctbug
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 8:55 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
67ctbug wrote:
https://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/cto/d/68-vwbus-project/6408024859.html

Stupid question: Could you really order a bus with no slider? Seems a bit stupid to me...

No, that one has been discussed here before, too much beer and bondo as well as time on someone's hands.

Laughing LOL busdaddy thanks for the answer!
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'71 Westfalia (sold) Sad
'71 Westfalia
Go Cubs!
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My '67 Resto
KentPS wrote:
...or the PO envied the terrorists' bus in "Back to the Future". Laughing

djkeev wrote:
So you're saying that the DeLorean "Mr. Fusion" kits fit the 68 Chevelle as well?
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alman72
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 4:21 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

https://fortwayne.craigslist.org/pts/d/volkswagen-bus-type-2-rear/6448130775.html
Are these legit VW or does someone recognize them/maker?
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