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Hikelite
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2012
Posts: 557
Location: Colville, WA
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 Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 8:19 am Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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I've decided to go with a stock Solex carb. Bill pointed me towards Volksbitz. Thanks Bill!  I'm going to get my carb from him.
I still have to source the throttle positioner and the altitude compensator.
Once I get the new Solex, I think I might send this Bocar to Tim and have it rebulit for a backup.
I also need to find the correct distributor. Does anyone know what came on a 68 Bay?
_________________
~Kevin
My 1968 Campmobile |
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jtauxe 
Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2004
Posts: 5780
Location: Los Alamos, New Mexico
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| Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 9:09 am Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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| Hikelite wrote: |
<snip>
I'd like to get some feedback and/or advice about what I should do to The Bus to get her ready.
I think the engine is fine. It's the one described above, 1918cc with hydraulic lifters, external oil filter and oil cooler. |
How do you know you have hydraulic lifters?
| Hikelite wrote: |
There is one thing it needs though, a new carburetor. When I told my wife it was gone, I meant I had no intention of using it for this trip. I think it's always been under carbed.
I've always assumed I would put dual double barrel carbs on her, but we will be in cold climates sometimes. Granted our goal is to follow the pleasant weather, it's still cold at high elevations. |
The dual carbs perform better than a single on in the cold, since there is no header pipe to heat up.
| Hikelite wrote: |
| I'm worried about not having a choke, but that's because I've never had dual carbs. |
Get dual carbs with chokes.
| Hikelite wrote: |
| What do those of you with campers think? |
What does that have to do with campers?
| Hikelite wrote: |
| Remember that I have hydraulic lifters, so I won't be winding it out. That's what makes we wonder if I will really get the full benefit of dual carbs vs a progressive or something. |
Not sure what you mean, here. Do you think that hydraulic lifters somehow result on poorer performance?
| Hikelite wrote: |
What about the transmission? It still has the stock 4 speed. Are there 5 speeds I can put in? Should I consider a "freeway flier" with taller gears? I'm inclined to just leave it alone until there is something wrong with it though.  |
Stick with what you have. There are no 5-speeds, and "freeway flyer" is a myth.
| Hikelite wrote: |
We will be travelling with our 2 dogs. Mostly camping along the way.
I'm trying to decide what to do with the interior. I want to keep it mostly original, but I want to upgrade the stock sink/cooler unit to an actual refrigerator. |
Are you thinking propane?
| Hikelite wrote: |
We're undecided about whether or not we want a sink. If we do keep the sink (most likely), I'm going to switch it to use an electric pump.
I'll be replacing as much rubber as is practical. Any reccomendations on tires? I'm planning to keep the original steel wheels unless there is a reason to upgrade. |
Read the tire sticky. But get C-rated light truck tires, for sure.
Original steel wheels are best.
| Hikelite wrote: |
| Which leads to something I was thinking about. What about a brake upgrade? I do recall The Bus could get a little brake fade on long downhills. I looked at some of the upgrade options, but it seems like I need bigger rims to fit around them? Discs up front would be nice, but are there more cost effective options? |
The brakes are fine--just maintain them properly. No need to upgrade.
| Hikelite wrote: |
| What electrical upgrades should I look at? I'm already planning to install a second, "house", battery, an alternator, new audio system, and LED lighting. |
You probably already have an alternator. Just keep a spare on hand. Keep the house battery isolated.
| Hikelite wrote: |
| We're thinking about solar panels. I think I have a good idea about a way to mount them. |
There are some threads on this, but my take on it is that they are not going to keep the rig charged up as much as you might think. And anything on the roof will induce more drag.
| Hikelite wrote: |
| What about upgraded headlights? I saw some H4 kits available. Anyone have experience with installing these on an early bay window bus? |
I have successfully installed them on late bays. Not sure if there is a real difference between that and the early ones.
| Hikelite wrote: |
| I work in IT, so of course I have a spreadsheet for this project. One of the items on the list is a horn upgrade. Any thoughts? (thoughts about the horn, not my lunacy at making a spreadsheet about my Bus restoration project ) |
Why? If you do put in some sort of blaster, you will probably want to wire it through a relay.
| Hikelite wrote: |
| Any reccomendations for suspension? I always loved how awesome The Bus did on back roads. I took it to places that scared 4x4s lol. What is my best option to maintain the off road performance? |
Keep it stock, though perhaps add anti-sway bars to help with crosswinds.
| Hikelite wrote: |
| The tent is destroyed. Pretty understandable for a nearly 50 year old van. I have made a lot of backpacking gear myself, so the idea of making the tent myself is not completely ruled out yet. The only reason I would consider making it myself is if I come up with a design change I can't buy. For example, I have an idea about making one side pop out as an awning over the door. We will often be setup in one spot for a week at a time. Is the orginal canvas still the best material for long term exposure like that? I was wondering if something from the sailing/marine industry might not be more durable. |
Nice replacement canvas is available from various sources. Some makers use Sunbrella fabric, too. Probably not worth it to make your own.
| Hikelite wrote: |
| Since we plan to eventually take this Bus into some very warm places, I'm thinking about trying to get the original AC working again. Has anyone ever seen one of these? Do I have any hope of finding parts? |
You will be disappointed. Don't bother trying to get AC to work.
| Hikelite wrote: |
| Speaking of the AC, what about heating? The old exchangers were garbage when I replaced the engine, so right now it just has J tubes. I've become more of a wimp about cold as I age, so heat is not optional anymore. I had a Bug and a 914 before The Bus. In my experience, ACVW heating is not very effective, but I always had rotten exchangers. Would a set of new heat exchangers be enough to heat that large passenger compartment? |
Yes. If it's really cold (like below freezing) you may want to set up a curtain behind the front seats to keep the heat up front.
| Hikelite wrote: |
| What about while camping? Are there propane heater systems? There could be a benefit to adding propane to The Bus. We could then have a dual source fridge and use it for cooking. Where do people put the canister on these Buses? |
Yes, there are propane systems. You might be able to scrounge mounting hardware from a VW junkyard. Look at photos of buses and you can see how the original outfitters did it.
Good luck!
_________________
John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD
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Hikelite
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2012
Posts: 557
Location: Colville, WA
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| Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 10:56 am Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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thanks for the thorough response John
| jtauxe wrote: |
| Hikelite wrote: |
| <snip>I think the engine is fine. It's the one described above, 1918cc with hydraulic lifters, external oil filter and oil cooler. |
How do you know you have hydraulic lifters?
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I had it rebuilt back in the 90s by Adrian @ Headflow masters up in north county San Diego. I can't recall exactly when I had it done, but I think it's has 15-20k on the motor. It ran fine when I parked it.
| jtauxe wrote: |
| Hikelite wrote: |
| Remember that I have hydraulic lifters, so I won't be winding it out. That's what makes we wonder if I will really get the full benefit of dual carbs vs a progressive or something. |
Not sure what you mean, here. Do you think that hydraulic lifters somehow result on poorer performance?
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It's my belief that dual carbs provide the biggest benefit at higher RPMs. It's also my understanding that hydraulic lifters reduce top end performance, so it's sort of the opposite of where dual carbs benefit most.
| jtauxe wrote: |
| Hikelite wrote: |
| What about the transmission? It still has the stock 4 speed. Are there 5 speeds I can put in? Should I consider a "freeway flier" with taller gears? I'm inclined to just leave it alone until there is something wrong with it though. |
Stick with what you have. There are no 5-speeds, and "freeway flyer" is a myth. |
Thanks. I have decided to run this one until it needs rebuilding.
| jtauxe wrote: |
| Hikelite wrote: |
| I want to upgrade the stock sink/cooler unit to an actual refrigerator. |
Are you thinking propane? |
Yes. I've been looking at RV/Marine units. Some can use DC or propane.
I'm still rather undecided on adding propane.
| jtauxe wrote: |
| Hikelite wrote: |
| What about while camping? Are there propane heater systems? |
Yes, there are propane systems. You might be able to scrounge mounting hardware from a VW junkyard. Look at photos of buses and you can see how the original outfitters did it. |
This is exactly the route I was leaning towards, but since this is a long trip to remote areas, I'm questioning the added complexity of a propane system. Plus, I'm not sure I want to strap a bomb to the bottom of my bus. :p
If we are cold, I will run the engine to warm the passenger compartment. There is also my concern about finding propane along the way. I know I'll have gasoline, so a gas can on the roof will provide more heating potential than any propane tank I can fit under the bus.
| jtauxe wrote: |
| Hikelite wrote: |
| Any reccomendations on tires? I'm planning to keep the original steel wheels unless there is a reason to upgrade. |
Read the tire sticky. But get C-rated light truck tires, for sure.
Original steel wheels are best. |
Thanks. I will read that thread for tires. I would only consider different wheels if they were necessary for a brake upgrade. More and more I want to leave everything original, but well maintained.
| jtauxe wrote: |
| Hikelite wrote: |
| What about a brake upgrade? |
The brakes are fine--just maintain them properly. No need to upgrade. |
After more reading, that was my conclusion too. Thanks for the confirmation.
| jtauxe wrote: |
| Hikelite wrote: |
| What electrical upgrades should I look at? I'm already planning to install a second, "house", battery, an alternator, new audio system, and LED lighting. |
You probably already have an alternator. Just keep a spare on hand. Keep the house battery isolated. |
I still have a generator. With a dual battery system, using a solenoid (the device that isolates the batteries but allows them both to charge), there is an advantage to being able to recharge quickly AND while at idle. I have to think about this some more, but I may do this upgrade after I decide the generator isn't up to the task.
| jtauxe wrote: |
| Hikelite wrote: |
| We're thinking about solar panels. I think I have a good idea about a way to mount them. |
There are some threads on this, but my take on it is that they are not going to keep the rig charged up as much as you might think. And anything on the roof will induce more drag. |
The drag is a great point. As we plan, I've been adamant about keeping stuff off the roof, but I think I am going to lose that battle. There will almost certainly be items on the roof rack when underway. If I fashion a deflector on the leading edge, I may be able to reduce the drag a little. I'm less worried about fuel efficiency than noise or vibrations. If I do install solar panels, I would want to structurally reinforce the poptop first. Honestly, I'm leaning far towards not installing solar. If I install the alternator, I can recharge quickly, and it's one less system to malfunction. Lastly, the panels would make the Bus stick out more. We want to keep a "low profile" as much as possible.
| jtauxe wrote: |
| Hikelite wrote: |
| What about upgraded headlights? I saw some H4 kits available. Anyone have experience with installing these on an early bay window bus? |
I have successfully installed them on late bays. Not sure if there is a real difference between that and the early ones. |
Really? I thought a more modern lighting upgrade would be a significant improvement over the old sealed beam technology.
| jtauxe wrote: |
| Hikelite wrote: |
| Any reccomendations for suspension? I always loved how awesome The Bus did on back roads. I took it to places that scared 4x4s lol. What is my best option to maintain the off road performance? |
Keep it stock, though perhaps add anti-sway bars to help with crosswinds. |
Sway bars are a good idea too. I thought I had them, but I don't. I also noticed I have no splash pan up front. It appears there was one at one time, but it was gone when I got it. I keep having to remind myself that despite owning this since the 90s, and being the second owner, it was worked on for nearly 30 years before I got it. :p
| jtauxe wrote: |
| Hikelite wrote: |
| The tent is destroyed. Pretty understandable for a nearly 50 year old van. I have made a lot of backpacking gear myself, so the idea of making the tent myself is not completely ruled out yet. The only reason I would consider making it myself is if I come up with a design change I can't buy. For example, I have an idea about making one side pop out as an awning over the door. We will often be setup in one spot for a week at a time. Is the orginal canvas still the best material for long term exposure like that? I was wondering if something from the sailing/marine industry might not be more durable. |
Nice replacement canvas is available from various sources. Some makers use Sunbrella fabric, too. Probably not worth it to make your own. |
I tend to agree it's probably better to buy one until I stand out there and look at how the original is made. It's not complex, and I have one to pattern from. There are already fabric items I'll end up making, so I would be able to have all my fabrics match if I make more of the items.
| jtauxe wrote: |
| Hikelite wrote: |
| Since we plan to eventually take this Bus into some very warm places, I'm thinking about trying to get the original AC working again. Has anyone ever seen one of these? Do I have any hope of finding parts? |
You will be disappointed. Don't bother trying to get AC to work. |
Bummer. It was way down my list anyway, but I was sitting in the 4runner yesterday with the AC on thinking about this. If I'm moving, I won't need AC. The only time it's really useful is when you're sitting still in the heat. I think I will just add some 12V fans.
| jtauxe wrote: |
| Hikelite wrote: |
| Speaking of the AC, what about heating? The old exchangers were garbage when I replaced the engine, so right now it just has J tubes. I've become more of a wimp about cold as I age, so heat is not optional anymore. I had a Bug and a 914 before The Bus. In my experience, ACVW heating is not very effective, but I always had rotten exchangers. Would a set of new heat exchangers be enough to heat that large passenger compartment? |
Yes. If it's really cold (like below freezing) you may want to set up a curtain behind the front seats to keep the heat up front.
Good luck! |
I plan to add sound and thermal insulation when I put the interior back together, so that should help.
Thanks again for the feedback.
_________________
~Kevin
My 1968 Campmobile |
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Hikelite
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2012
Posts: 557
Location: Colville, WA
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| Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 3:44 pm Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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Didn't actually get to work on the Bus during the holiday, but I got a lot done to the shop getting it ready for her.
Here she is waiting patiently to go back inside. You can see a nice big hole at the corner of the tent too.
I had to move her so I could work on the 4runner in the shop, and while it is empty, I am doing some work on the shop structure.
Here she is from the other angle.
As you can see the top is trashed, but still good enough as a template.
My wife is down in the bay area, so she picked up a distributor 211 905 205 Q and a Solex 34PICT3 from a samba member.
I'll have the Bus in the shop tonight, and will begin the restoration! I'm going to do the interior and top first, as this is gonna get the wife excited more than the engine.  The interior is in good shape, so it will just be a dis assembly, cleaning, and re-assembly. The fiberglass top needs some love, so I'll take care of that before putting in a new tent.
Should have weekly updates from here on out. I'm afraid to count how many weeks I have to get her ready. I know it's more than 52 still, so I'm not paniced yet. :p[/img]
_________________
~Kevin
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Hikelite
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2012
Posts: 557
Location: Colville, WA
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| Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2016 11:01 am Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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I started taking things out to survey rust damage. Not good news 
I can't even blame a PO since I've owned it the last 20 years or so.
Anyway, there is rust on the passenger floor panel. Not too worried about this one since I can get a panel to replace it.
I'm a little worried about the rear cargo area. The spare tire well is completely rusted through. Is there anywhere I can get a replacement piece of metal to weld in here?
here is the damage in the rear cargo area and spare tire well.
I've been looking over her a lot lately making lists of needed parts, but I had not realized how bad the spare tire area was. I just don't know where to get a replacement panel right now.
Haven't got all the interior out yet. Hopefully the main cargo floor isn't too bad. I was really hoping to only need to clean up the interior, but I guess I'll be spending the next few months preforming cancer surgery.
_________________
~Kevin
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Tcash
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Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Hikelite
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2012
Posts: 557
Location: Colville, WA
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| Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2016 1:30 pm Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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Thanks buddy
The 68 doesn't have an engine access panel. That cargo area is solid. Well it was. Mine not so much anymore. 
I wonder how much that area changed after 68. I know I have the first year of the bay window, so it was in rapid development still. I don't know if I should wait to find a 68. A 69 or 70 should be pretty close I think.
I guess deep down I knew I wasn't gonna get off that easy. I knew that back hatch seal was leaking. I just didn't realized it was filling up that spare tire well.
This find is making me feel really bad. It hasn't hurt my motivation, but I feel guilty as though I let the bus down by allowing this happen under my care.
I guess I'm gonna get real good at grinding. I only have a stick welder, so the welding is not likely to improve too much.
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~Kevin
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Tcash
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Hikelite
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2012
Posts: 557
Location: Colville, WA
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| Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2016 4:55 pm Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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Back when this was my driver, I had wondered about a similar modification.
I have contacted a couple of the guys parting out 68s to see about getting that section of metal. Thanks again.
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~Kevin
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mattsaintg
Samba Member
Joined: September 15, 2014
Posts: 48
Location: San Jose, CA
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| Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 5:24 pm Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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Not sure if you need the metal for the cargo area above the engine bay and spare tire tub, but I have one in Portland you are welcome to.
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Hikelite
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2012
Posts: 557
Location: Colville, WA
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 12:17 pm Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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Something happened to the bus yesterday
Thanks to Cory's recommendation, the bus went to Adam Bruno's shop yesterday.
Finally, I'm going to get to drive her... this year!
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~Kevin
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Hikelite
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2012
Posts: 557
Location: Colville, WA
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| Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 11:23 pm Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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The work begins...
Driver's side CV joints are bad. If one side is worn out, the other can't be far behind, so replacing the other side too. 
I knew I had brake problems. Front drums are toast, but rear can be turned. I think my master is bad, and the fluid reservoirs are cracked (68 only parts). Since I already have to replace nearly all the front brake components, I decide to upgrade and install front discs from a 71 including the new master w/servo. 
I have a 1915cc motor that being fueled by a single Bocar 34-pict3 carb. I bought a used Solex 34-pict3. Rather than spend $200 to have the carb restored, I'm going to upgrade to new Weber 40 IDFs.
I see a pattern here. Every system we look at leads to more $$$ 
Steering box has play he can't adjust away, so looking at new or used replacement. New ball joints, tie rods, drag link.
Damn this bus is gonna handle good
_________________
~Kevin
My 1968 Campmobile |
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Hikelite
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2012
Posts: 557
Location: Colville, WA
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| Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 5:34 pm Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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...
Crack in the frame...
5 of the bottom torsion bars are broken on drivers side...
Normally on these tbreads, we blame the PO. 
I guess I can't do that.
I don't recall bottoming the front end lol
Of course there were those trips to Valley of the Moon. That road in was pretty bad in the late 90s.
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~Kevin
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Hikelite
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2012
Posts: 557
Location: Colville, WA
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| Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 10:48 am Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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The bus is almost back on the road!
Adam got the front end put back together. Basically, everything up there is new :p
The upgrade to front discs from a 71 is complete. He even retrofitted the booster. Wow, power brakes in a VW
In this picture you can also see where the frame had the crack that was welded up.
Aircooled.net was the 40 IDF's backorderd, but we have some coming from CB performance on Monday. He's hoping to have it running on Tuesday. 
One problem... it will have no wheels
The stock 14" wide 5 wheels do not clear the brake caliper. We've been discussing our options for a couple days, and have decided to get my wheels re-hooped. I'm putting my early bay wide 5 centers into the rims from a late bay. This will let me keep my 5x205 bolt pattern, and more importantly, my early bay hubcaps. I'm doing all 5 wheels so I don't have to worry about having 2 different kind of wheels. It will make tire rotation work this way too.
It's going to take a couple weeks for the wheel guy to build the new wheels, so test drives might not happen next week 
I'm still getting pretty excited to drive it again. Next phase is the rust repair. I have looked around and can't find anyone who has repaired/replaced the inner valence behind the bottom of the nose. There is some bad rust on it, but it looks like it's only on that piece. I'd love to see some pictures or video of an inner valence repair.
There is also rust on the front floor and that back parcel shelf. These repairs don't have me too worried.
For the parcel shelf repair, I'm thinking about eliminating the spare tire well.
We don't want to carry the spare there as space is already limited inside. Also, with that removed, I'm hoping I can squeeze in 2 6V house batteries on the left side of the engine bay. I've not seen anyone do this either, but I think it will fit.
Thankfully, Winter seems to have finally migrated south. I don't do cold well (I get hives), so I am reluctant to work on the bus in Winter. I'm going to have a busy summer getting everything done before Winter comes back.
A question for the experienced welders here...
I only have a stick welder that was given to me by my FIL. I'm not sure it's going to work for this thin sheet metal. It seems like MIG with gas will work better. I just don't want to buy another large tool right before going on an indefinite length road trip.
Think I can replace the panels I need to replace with just a stick welder. I did pick up some really thin sticks, but based on the little bit of welding I've done with it, I don't think it's going to work very well.
Another question about the rust repair...
How do you treat the inside cavities? ie after I weld in the new valence metal, how do I paint the back of the welds?
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~Kevin
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orwell84
Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2007
Posts: 2536
Location: Plattsburgh, New York
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| Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 4:43 pm Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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| If you really are doing to do the rust repair yourself, buy a MIG welder that you can use gas with. Don't even bother with your stick welder or try to save money welding with flux core. They are not that expensive and it is one of those tools that pays for itself very quickly when welding a rusty bus. When I weld in panels I cannot get to once they are welded, I coat them with weld through primer. Sometimes, I will coat them with rustoleum and masked off the edges that will be welded, then paint the edges with weld through. I would not recommend POR 15 for this application. It doesn't hold up in cavities and when it burns off when welding, it makes the welds go bad. |
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Hikelite
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2012
Posts: 557
Location: Colville, WA
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| Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2018 6:41 pm Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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| orwell84 wrote: |
| If you really are doing to do the rust repair yourself, buy a MIG welder that you can use gas with. Don't even bother with your stick welder or try to save money welding with flux core. They are not that expensive and it is one of those tools that pays for itself very quickly when welding a rusty bus. When I weld in panels I cannot get to once they are welded, I coat them with weld through primer. Sometimes, I will coat them with rustoleum and masked off the edges that will be welded, then paint the edges with weld through. I would not recommend POR 15 for this application. It doesn't hold up in cavities and when it burns off when welding, it makes the welds go bad. |
Thanks. After watching more videos of rust repair, I came to the same conclusion. Welds with gas are cleaner. I've used gas once at a buddy's. Definitely worked better.
I found people replacing that inner valence, but they were all also replacing part of the nose. My nose is fine, so my big concern is accessing that valence piece. I think re moving the front floor panel will provide access. Hope so.
I've heard about weldable primer, but never used it. I'm sure it will keep the sheet metal protected, but won't the welds be bare metal inside? What about making a tiny hole through which I spray some sort of rust protection inside the chamber?
I've been watching craigslist for used welders for a couple years now without luck. Nobody sells the the little 500 buck welders used around here
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~Kevin
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Hikelite
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2012
Posts: 557
Location: Colville, WA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2018 10:59 am Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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We're getting close!
Adam got it running yesterday, but the fuel pump was bad (leaking). New one will be here today.
Rebuilt steering box installed... check
New rag join... check
New ball joints... check
New tie rods... check
New drag link... check
New steering damper... check
New front and rear seals and bearings... check
Disc brake system from donor 71... check
New rotors, pads, and calipers... check
New master cylinder... check
New rear pads and cylinders... check
New brake hoses... check
New CV Joints... check
New high output alternator... check
New heater boxes... check
New external oil cooler w/fan... check
New external oil filter... check
New Weber 40 IDF carbs... check
New battery... check
New clutch... check
New heater cable... check
New clutch cable... check
New accelerator cable... check
I have new RA18s on the original wheels, but I may not be able to use them depending on how we resolve the brake caliper clearance issue.
We were going to get my wheels re-hooped (see above), but the late bay hoops are a tiny bit bigger than the ear bay hoops, so the wheel builder said we can't do it.
I'm still not sure what to do about this. I posted on Aeromech's fantastic disc brake thread. Hopefully someone will have a good suggestion.
Ideally I want no adapter, but I'm OK with it if that's what it takes.
I also don't want different wheels. I want to be able to rotate tires.
I'd love to keep my original hubcaps, but I think I'm going to have to get over it and look into new wheels.
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~Kevin
My 1968 Campmobile |
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Hikelite
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2012
Posts: 557
Location: Colville, WA
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| Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 9:47 am Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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We've decided to go ahead with the plan to re-hoop my early bay centers into the hoops from a set of late bay wheels.
He's going to lend me a set of late bay wheels to use while he makes my wheels. I should have the bus back next week.
The shakedown trip will be a drive to the DMV in Tulelake, CA to get it registered. After hours on the phone, I've come to the realization that there is no way to get the bus registered in CA while it's still in WA. WA will let me purchase a 3 day operating permit though, so once I have the bus, we will plan a quickie trip to get the tags.
I can't believe I'm going to be driving my bus again next week. Hopefully she is well rested after being off the road for 17ish years. We have some pretty ambitious plans for her. 
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~Kevin
My 1968 Campmobile |
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Hikelite
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2012
Posts: 557
Location: Colville, WA
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| Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 1:56 pm Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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I realize I'm cluttering up my own thread without any pictures or real updates, but it's my thread
Since my birthday is on the 20th of next month, I've decided to make that the bus's new birthday.
Since it's already dropped off the DMV system in CA, I suspect the day I go in will be the new registration date. The timing looks like it will work out well. I won't be into the metal work yet, we want to take it on a medium range shake down trip, and I need to get it registered so I can move it around while the body and paint is done.
My bus was first registered on 12/26/1967. I always liked that it was likely someone's Christmas gift. That date is lost I believe, so now the bus's second life can share my birthday.
I'm pretty excited that I'm going to drive it again after 17 years, but this makes it just a little sweeter.
_________________
~Kevin
My 1968 Campmobile |
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ultralite
Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2011
Posts: 570
Location: GA
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| Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 1:56 pm Post subject: Re: My 1968 Campmobile |
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Are y’all still planning around the world?
Love seeing these Busses restored....
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Godspeed
'76 Beetle (sold)
'69 Beetle (sold)
'72 BMW 2002 (RIP)
'69 Westy
'02 BMW wagon AWD w/stick shift(sold)
'67 Beetle (sold) |
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