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h00drat
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 Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 1:05 pm Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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| dkoesyncro wrote: |
| If you can adapt a drill motor to a distributor shaft is one way or with belts attached turn the engine by hand a few dozen times. |
So you're saying assemble the motor, fill with oil, then manually turn it over a few dozen times to prime the pump and distribute oil. No need to buy a special tool...
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<<Tyler>>
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dkoesyncro
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| Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 1:40 pm Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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| That's the just of it, your using break in products while assembling like Redline or the classic Lubriplate. You won't turn it over fast enough to create heat or cause any expansion. My engine sensei explained this to me, I remember tiring while doing so. This also allows you a brail feel of assembly to catch anything that you wouldn't feel otherwise. |
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h00drat
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| Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 2:28 pm Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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| dkoesyncro wrote: |
| That's the just of it, your using break in products while assembling like Redline or the classic Lubriplate. You won't turn it over fast enough to create heat or cause any expansion. My engine sensei explained this to me, I remember tiring while doing so. This also allows you a brail feel of assembly to catch anything that you wouldn't feel otherwise. |
Yes, I am using Liqui Molly assembly lube on all bearing surfaces during assembly. I will do the same on cam.
I will use oil on the piston walls and rings during assembly.
And yes, I will use break-in specific oil additives and such when the time comes.
So yeah, your approach makes sense.
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<<Tyler>>
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h00drat
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h00drat
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| Posted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 9:11 am Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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Pistons are in and torqued.
Next question...
What order is the KEP adapter plate installed? This is my assumption, but it could be very wrong...
1. Engine Block / Crank
2. Adapter plate to block?
3. Flexplate Spacer to crank
4. Flex Plate
Then when mating to the motor...
5. Flex plate to torque converter
6. Adapter plate to transmission
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<<Tyler>>
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h00drat
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| Posted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 11:39 am Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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| vwfreek61 wrote: |
I made my own. The downpipe is 1.75" with about 31" long primaries. The exhaust is 2.25" with a 9" resonator and Ford F150 muffler. For the mandrel bends on the downpipe, I ordered a weld-your-own V8 header kit from Summit for $79...cheaper than buying all the bends separate.
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Muffler bits ordered. Going to try do something similar to what Kenneth did, above, except with a simpler header layout (hopefully).
Total cost, about $175.
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<<Tyler>>
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Zeitgeist 13
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| Posted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 12:36 pm Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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Ideally you would've done this prior to installing the pistons, but I recommend using a scraper and scotch pad to clean up the block deck. I use small circular scotch pads and my die grinder, as well as a gasket scraper for this purpose. Just wad up some paper towels to block off the oil ports, and then vacuum out the any detritus that gets into the coolant ports and head bolt threads.
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'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
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h00drat
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| Posted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 12:39 pm Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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| Zeitgeist 13 wrote: |
| Ideally you would've done this prior to installing the pistons, but I recommend using a scraper and scotch pad to clean up the block deck. I use small circular scotch pads and my die grinder, as well as a gasket scraper for this purpose. Just wad up some paper towels to block off the oil ports, and then vacuum out the any detritus that gets into the coolant ports and head bolt threads. |
Yeah, I guess I should have asked about this when it crossed my mind, a week or two ago. I used a gasket scraper and got it to where it currently stands. I didn't want to go "too far," and I wasn't sure if scotchbrite would be too rough for the surface. I'll see if I can find the pads you are referring to and give it another go (and clean up afterwards).
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<<Tyler>>
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Zeitgeist 13
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| Posted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 1:08 pm Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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You can get them at HF. The kind I use have an arbor that allows quick changes between scotch pad heads of different sizes and aggressiveness. Don't worry about the pads harming the cast iron. You want the surface to be smooth as possible for best head gasket adhesion.
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Casey--
'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
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h00drat
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| Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 9:24 am Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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Spent some more time cleaning up the block. More satisfactory?
Started replacing the seals on the front side of the motor. Struggling to find the torque specs for the front main seal housing, and the int shaft seal housing.
The Bentley had an M6 and an M8 number for the front main seal, so I'll just have to look at the housing again. It looked like all the bolts were the same size except for the one in the bottom right.
I took some measurements of the old flex plate and spacers, and the new flex plate and spacers, and based on my math, I need 25" long replacement bolts. The stock ones were 16.5mm.
Last thing on my mind, I think I'm going to do the rear main seal NOW while the motor is still light enough to pull off the stand easily. Then save the adapter plate and flex plate for very last when the motor is on the hoist.
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<<Tyler>>
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Vanagon Nut
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| Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 1:16 pm Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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| h00drat wrote: |
Started replacing the seals on the front side of the motor. Struggling to find the torque specs for the front main seal housing, and the int shaft seal housing.
Last thing on my mind, I think I'm going to do the rear main seal NOW while the motor is still light enough to pull off the stand easily. Then save the adapter plate and flex plate for very last when the motor is on the hoist. |
13-2 13-4 show front and rear seal carrier bolt torque specs. 13-2 shows IM shaft seal carrier specs.
edit: be mindful (don't over torque) of bolts holding oil pan to seal carrier. That seal carrier aluminum is soft and has a relatively short amount of threads. I'd almost be tempted to do those purely "by hand" holding ratchet at head.
I'm not familiar with the automatic but installing adaptor should be doable with engine on the ground or on a wood dolly. I installed my manual KEP plate, flywheel bolts, clutch with engine strapped to a wood dolly. My guess is that the flex plate bolts have a similar or lower torque value so you should be able to install flex plate with engine on ground or on wood dolly?? Would suggest not doing this with engine on hoist.
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h00drat
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| Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 2:14 pm Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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| Vanagon Nut wrote: |
13-2 13-4 show front and rear seal carrier bolt torque specs. 13-2 shows IM shaft seal carrier specs.
edit: be mindful (don't over torque) of bolts holding oil pan to seal carrier. That seal carrier aluminum is soft and has a relatively short amount of threads. I'd almost be tempted to do those purely "by hand" holding ratchet at head.
I'm not familiar with the automatic but installing adaptor should be doable with engine on the ground or on a wood dolly. I installed my manual KEP plate, flywheel bolts, clutch with engine strapped to a wood dolly. My guess is that the flex plate bolts have a similar or lower torque value so you should be able to install flex plate with engine on ground or on wood dolly?? Would suggest not doing this with engine on hoist. |
I'll check for those torque values again.
Yes, I can feel how soft that aluminum is, so I will be careful when torquing the oil pan to the carriers.
Engine on dolly makes sense.
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<<Tyler>>
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Vanagon Nut
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| Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 2:42 pm Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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| h00drat wrote: |
| Vanagon Nut wrote: |
....
edit: be mindful (don't over torque) of bolts holding oil pan to seal carrier. That seal carrier aluminum is soft ....
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.... Neither of the housings have threads in them.
Yes, I can feel how soft that aluminum is, .... |
Maybe we're talking about different parts?? ("housing" "carrier"). I was referring to threaded holes shown at bottom of seal carrier shown in image below. (and of same threaded holes on rear seal carrier). And, I guess the threads in question aren't *that* short. 
Most of the time my dolly sits unused but it sure was handy for swaps and for keeping a used ready for sale engine handy. Cheap to make.
Neil.
This dolly is a bit small but with added wood supporting engine, it worked fine for flywheel etc install
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h00drat
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| Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 2:45 pm Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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| Vanagon Nut wrote: |
| h00drat wrote: |
| Vanagon Nut wrote: |
....
edit: be mindful (don't over torque) of bolts holding oil pan to seal carrier. That seal carrier aluminum is soft ....
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.... Neither of the housings have threads in them.
Yes, I can feel how soft that aluminum is, .... |
Maybe we're talking about different parts?? ("housing" "carrier"). I was referring to threaded holes shown at bottom of seal carrier shown in image below. (and of same threaded holes on rear seal carrier). And, I guess the threads in question aren't *that* short.
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I deleted that part of my comment after I realized you were referring to the threads that the oil pan bolts go into. We're on the same page.
Nice looking dolly. That is a good idea.
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<<Tyler>>
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h00drat
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| Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 9:16 am Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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Got the oil pan cleaned up, and built a fill tube hole cover last night.
Exhaust bits also came in the mail. Still missing a couple of pieces. The long tube at the top is just for extra straights, and for an exhaust tip. I have access to a bender.
[EDIT] - I remember now why I thought I might need to get the flex plate on sooner, rather than later. When removing the crank shaft bolt, I used the flex plate and a strap to keep the thing from rotating. Trying to think of another way I could torque the crank pulley bolt without the flex plate installed...
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<<Tyler>>
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Vanagon Nut
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| Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 1:41 pm Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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| h00drat wrote: |
Exhaust bits also came in the mail. Still missing a couple of pieces. The long tube at the top is just for extra straights, and for an exhaust tip. I have access to a bender.
[EDIT] - I remember now why I thought I might need to get the flex plate on sooner, rather than later. When removing the crank shaft bolt, I used the flex plate and a strap to keep the thing from rotating. Trying to think of another way I could torque the crank pulley bolt without the flex plate installed...
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I assume your transmission is still mounted but if not..... with engine installed, install flex plate, lock it, then do final torque on crank pulley bolt? Or, if tranny is installed, is it possible to shift it forward then lock flex plate, etc. ?
What muffler (OD too?) is that please?
Neil.
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h00drat
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| Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:36 pm Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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| Vanagon Nut wrote: |
| h00drat wrote: |
Exhaust bits also came in the mail. Still missing a couple of pieces. The long tube at the top is just for extra straights, and for an exhaust tip. I have access to a bender.
[EDIT] - I remember now why I thought I might need to get the flex plate on sooner, rather than later. When removing the crank shaft bolt, I used the flex plate and a strap to keep the thing from rotating. Trying to think of another way I could torque the crank pulley bolt without the flex plate installed...
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I assume your transmission is still mounted but if not..... with engine installed, install flex plate, lock it, then do final torque on crank pulley bolt? Or, if tranny is installed, is it possible to shift it forward then lock flex plate, etc. ?
What muffler (OD too?) is that please?
Neil. |
Trans is currently in the van still...so I would probably be trying to tighten this all up before bolting the trans to the motor...but I guess it could wait (at least the torquing). At any rate, yeah, I could probably strap it to a dolly, and then use a strap to hold the flex plate still while torquing the crank bolt.
Exhaust (muffler and resonator) are 2.25". Downpipes will be 1.75" going into the collector.
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<<Tyler>>
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h00drat
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| Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:30 am Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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A little progress made last night.
Working on getting all of the accessories back on the motor, and a couple of questions popped up.
1. The thermostat housing hits the block so the water pump won't sit flush. Aside from grinding some of the block, I'm not sure what the solution is. Did I get the wrong tstat housing? Pictures for reference.
2. The case breather deal was removed when I got the motor. I have the gaskets to reinstall, however I'm trying to track down the bolts. The 3 look like good candidates. If they are correct, I am short one. Also didn't see torque specs for these guys in the benteley.
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<<Tyler>>
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Vanagon Nut
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| Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 12:23 pm Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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| h00drat wrote: |
| Vanagon Nut wrote: |
What muffler (OD too?) is that please?
Neil. |
Exhaust (muffler and resonator) are 2.25". Downpipes will be 1.75" going into the collector. |
Thanks. So muffler body is 7" OD? Like this for a mid 90's Ford F150 4.9 or 5.0 L engine?
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=565299&cc=1122286&jsn=555&jsn=555
" 2. The case breather deal was removed when I got the motor. I have the gaskets to reinstall, however I'm trying to track down the bolts. The 3 look like good candidates. If they are correct, I am short one. Also didn't see torque specs for these guys in the benteley. "
ya I don't recall seeing that breather bolt torque spec. I went by feel IIRC. Your local hardware store should have metric cap head bolts. There may be room (clearance) on part for cap bolt head and 13mm socket. Use spring washers in lieu of built in washer or bolt with flange at head. Make sure exposed bolt thread length doesn't bottom out on hole in block. Bolt thread only needs ~ 2/3 hole purchase. I'd dry test fit breather, oil cooler to check breather bolt accessibility but then cooler has to come off before breather? And, breather shouldn't have to come off for a long time. A "wobble" extension may help there and is a very useful tool to have; best HF purchase I've ever made. Odd re: coolant elbow. Did you test fit by installing pump housing then elbow?
Neil.
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h00drat
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| Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 12:32 pm Post subject: Re: 2.0 ABA Swap |
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This one, to be exact: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17911
Most of the parts I ordered were a direct copy of what Kenneth did. See my post like 5 up for reference. Total cost for everything was less than $200.
| Vanagon Nut wrote: |
" 2. The case breather deal was removed when I got the motor. I have the gaskets to reinstall, however I'm trying to track down the bolts. The 3 look like good candidates. If they are correct, I am short one. Also didn't see torque specs for these guys in the benteley. "
ya I don't recall seeing that breather bolt torque spec. I went by feel IIRC. Your local hardware store should have metric cap head bolts. There may be room (clearance) on part for cap bolt head and 13mm socket. Use spring washers in lieu of built in washer or bolt with flange at head. Make sure exposed bolt thread length doesn't bottom out on hole in block. Bolt thread only needs ~ 2/3 hole purchase. I'd dry test fit breather, oil cooler to check breather bolt accessibility but then cooler has to come off before breather? And, breather shouldn't have to come off for a long time. A "wobble" extension may help there and is a very useful tool to have; best HF purchase I've ever made. |
Yeah, this is what I assumed. I'll hit up the hardware store this weekend to grab some new bolts and tighten to feel. The oil cooler housing is back on and doesn't look like it will be in my way. IIRC that was torqued to 15lb, which is a "heavy" hand tight for me. I'll torque the breather a less than that since it's made of plastic. So many parts on this motor are torqued to 7.5 ft lb (89 in lb) which is really really light.
| Vanagon Nut wrote: |
Odd re: coolant elbow. Did you test fit by installing pump housing then elbow?
Neil. |
Yeah, I thought it odd too since so many people run it. I did try installing the WP housing first then the elbow with no luck. By the looks of it, I shouldn't have to take more than a few MM off of the block to make it work. NBD
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