distributor problems?

[slammed sickness]

I'm working on my 78 bay 2.0 FI and im trying to get it ready to go for swapping this summer and I can't seem to get it running right it sputters and dies under full acceleration. I can feather it and keep it going but it's running pretty ruff if at all. I changed the fuelpump with one I had in the shop because the old one was bad. I changed fuel filter and pulled and cleaned the fuel tank. checked for missing vacc hoses and such.the distributor was fryed due to being hooked up wrong by previous owner. so I swapped it with one we had in the shop from a running bug. it had a new cap and rotor. I can't seem to find a 2.0 specific distributor but am wondering if a 1600 and 2.0 distributor are compatible? as I believe that could be my problem? I'm new to these 2.0s any info is appreciated
_________________
*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[SGKent]

how are you timing it?
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[slammed sickness]

lined it up at Tdc installed the distributor and then by ear from.there tryed it at many different degrees and once I get to a certain spot that's about the only spot it will half ass run at.
_________________
*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[Glenn]

You need a timing light, by ear ain't cutting it.
_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[slammed sickness]

well that's the plan next. have to go buy one the one I have doesnt work. we suspect it is a timing issue but I thought it may also be because of the distributor.
_________________
*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[Wildthings]

Do a full diagnostic according to your shop manual. There is also a Bosch Pro Training Manual available in the Samba Technical section.

[slammed sickness]

I've been checking everything which leads to this problem and kinda set on it being a timing issue. can anyone verify if the distributors are different tho? the one I have in there is from a 1600. i looked on cip1 but the ones on there just say fits all beetles or fits most models nothing specific
_________________
*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[TomWesty]

The distributors are definitely different. Get a timing light and at least time it properly for the engine whether or not the dizzy is right. That way you won’t hurt the engine. I don’t know type 4 engines, but I do know that too much advance is very bad for them. Also, read through some threads on here that diagnose FI issues on type 4s. There are many places on them where vacuum leaks can develop. Your issue sounds like a vacuum leak, but adjust the valves properly and time it properly before you go digging into the FI system.
_________________
If you haven't bled on them, you haven't worked on them.
Visit: www.tomcoryell.com and check out my music!

[airschooled]

[slammed sickness]

were in between vacuum leak and timing. I'm going to get a timing light and start there. all my vacuum lines look to be in tact and i put hose clamps on the ends. i also noticed when I removed the intake boot that it was cracked. I've got one coming this week but for a quick fix we sealed it the best we could and still no change. it was quite strange tho that after putting everything back together after cleaning the fuel tank out that it ran great for about a minute then started sputtering and such again.
_________________
*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[Wildthings]

There are four basic ACVW distributors:

* Vacuum advance only
* Vacuum advance + mechanical advance, SVDA
* Vacuum advance + vacuum retard + mechanical advance, DVDA
* Mechanical advance only

Even though there are variations within each group, so long as you are using the style distributor that matches your fuel system you are probably okay.

For your engine you want to time the distributor at 28° BTDC at 3500+ rpm's hoses off, pretty much ignoring the book spec which assumes everything is working as well as it did the day it left the factory 40 years back.

[slammed sickness]

what is stock for my 2.0 fuel injecton motor? ive got a vacuum advance on there now
_________________
*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[Wildthings]

[furgo]

As Wildthings already points out, your engine came with an SVDA distributor. I'm assuming you've got a Federal and not a California bus. As such, that would be:

http://www.oldvolkshome.com/ignition.htm#B7679

Looking at it, it seems it originally had the same distributor as my bus:

• VW 021-905-205P (Bosch 0231 168 005, with RPM-limiting rotor)
• VW 022-905-205S (Bosch 0231 170 093)
• Alternative: VW 021 905 205 G (Bosch 0 231 180 009)

Either of them will work. The first ones are effectively the same distributor with exactly the same vacuum and centrifugal control curve. The last one has a very close curve to the stock distributor and should work too if you don't find any of the other ones. Yet another alternative of a similar SVDA, but not as good a match due to the differences in the centrifugal curve would be VW 021 905 205 H (Bosch 0231180011). You can look up the distributor curves yourself here, but I think these four are your best option.

I'd suggest looking at The Samba classifieds to find one.

Note: there is no such thing as "a 1600" or "a 2000" distributor. Nearly every application (bus type) came with a particular distributor. If you want to find out the right one, the best bet is to use the oldvolkshome link above to come up with the exact part numbers.

Another option is to go to http://www.bosch-classic.com, register and use their "My garage" function to see all Bosch part numbers that correspond to your particular type of bus. I personally find this very useful.

In summary, I too would recommend what others have already said in the thread:

• Use the right SVDA distributor as per the notes above. A vacuum-only one is not what your engine was designed for
• Find the timing specs for your engine, and at least statically time it with a test light, not by ear. If your engine is not properly timed and runs like crap as a result, it will mask any other issues (and you won't be doing it any favour). Looking at the oldvolkshome page again, it seems your engine is supposed to be timed at 7.5° BTDC, but please double-check.
• The next best thing, though, would be to borrow or buy a strobe light and time the engine dynamically. You can then use the timing at at idle method (7.5° BTDC) or the full mechanical advance timing method (28° BTDC, ask for more info if required)
_________________
'79 Westy, P22 interior, FI 2.0 l Federal, GE engine (hydraulic lifters)

Decode your M-Plate

[slammed sickness]

I plan to try to figure out the timing next I don't know a whole lot about timing tho which is something I plan. on learning more about.. how do I know what degree it's at, at Tdc? sorry for all the questions. timing is something I'm not "advanced" at
_________________
*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[Wildthings]

[slammed sickness]

well I wouldn't say I'm a complete idiot haha but I do believe we have that book somewhere if I'm not mistaken. another problem is I can't keep the bus idling to mess with a timing light. it idled for about a minute when I cleaned the fuel tank and our fresh gas in then stated acting up again
_________________
*Slammed Sickness*
*1960 Bug *

[timvw7476]

You need to locate the 'notch' on your fan assembly, it's on the inside lip
where the alternator belt runs, s drop of white-out makes it easier to
pick up with a timing light, you just need that strobe light to confirm
timing at idle & over 3,000rpm. The timing bracket has hash marks &
numbers, it should be bolted to the fan housing, should be black plastic.
You want an idle at 7 1/2 to 8 degrees Before TDC, 28 degrees BTDC @
3,000+rpm. These are measured with the vacuum line to the distributor
plugged at the vacuum can. If you can see those timing numbers, you
should be able to plug in the vacuum hose to the distributor & drive it.

[Wildthings]