Heater Beater 1776

[74 Thing]

FYI-John Maher has a lot of info on case prep, porting and the HVX oil mod for the 1 & 2 cyl side on his website and on the cal-look.no forum

http://johnmaherracing.com/2013/01/project-2110-part-3-crankcase-preparation/

[calvinater]

regarding that restrictor plug you mentioned, ours is allready pulled and tapped. any idea how much this will affect oil flow /pressure ? 26 mm schadeck pump/berg full flow kit.
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"Albatross"!

[Clatter]

[Clatter]

[Clatter]

[Clatter]

Couple more case details..

Here, the passage from the oil sump pickup tube is matched to the oil pump inlet;
I put some Dychem on around the hole, installed the pump, and used a curved scribe (dentist's pick) to mark the edge of the hole.
Then, it gets die-grinded (die-ground? ) to match.
I'm not so sure this one really makes any difference,
But,
Somehow it feels like it..

Also did the long drilling for the Bob Hoover HVX mod.
This is a 12" long 15/64" drill bit.
You want to measure very carefully how deep to go here.

Painting with some Dychem to make sure i can watch it go.

Nerve-racking, that one, because some cases, the drill will come out the outside of the case.
Measure six ways from Sunday to try and make sure yours won't do this.
I tried to take a pic of making measurements, but didn't have three hands.
Using a caliper and straight-edge, you can get enough reassurance that it will work (hopefully).

I heard to leave the long drill bit in place when you drill this second hole here,
To know when to stop, and keep from going too deep,
However,
I turn the long drill bit around, and drive the shank end into the hole,
So the long drill bit won't get hurt,
or the other one either,
When it does bottom home.

It's really a long, tense drilling, wondering if you are going to ruin a case..
I did the order of operations wrong;
If you are going to ruin a case,
Do it first, before blasting, and a days' worth of detail work!

Moved on to my hoakey home-job rod balancing rig.
If i can get decent results with this, then anyone can, right?
(I actually checked my work on a pro balancing rig at Jim's and it checked out! )

First thing i do before balancing is take all of the rods and grind the little square corner tabs off,
And also the 'ears' off of the bottom of the rod bolts.
It just seems to me that smoothing them out has to help with windage,
Kind of like porting the case windows.
Might be all in my head, but it helps there (in my head) and that's where this all lives, right?

After doing all of the grinding,
It gets the oil holes chased with the right drill bit for good measure,
As well as adding just a bit more chamfer to the oil holes,
To get a bit more oil in there.
Then a quick wire-wheeling, to make sure no rough flake-age or burrs come off inside there later..
All for my head again..

I built a couple of Harley street/drag motors back in the day,
Where we drilled lightening holes in the rods, and polished every tiny crevice of the rod assembly to a mirror finish.
Also polished the entire inside of the case and the Flywheels (crank) too.
Every internal part polished to a mirror finish... Lots of guys in those circles did that.

FWIW.. Bla bla. This ain't that for sure..

Hope somebody learned something.
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[74 Thing]

Are you going to notch the rods for the oil throw as well?

[Clatter]

[Clatter]

Stuck home sick today, got on Cal-look.no

Saw this:
Link


Got to watch the whole thing!
What are the chances?
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Clatter]

OK,
A few hours spent with the latest toy..

After letting it sit and stew for a few days,
Went and did a final check on the rod balance; to get it close as possible with the tools I have.
Was hungry and tired last time i quit, and my hoakey balance rig doesn't easily repeat,
So, to sit and patiently write the best numbers i could get on the ends and beam of the rod itself,
It lets me really really nut them during the final session..

Went and got a flap-wheel for the angle-grinder, and smoothed the rods down a bit.
Not that it really helps much, but it felt good to do,
And I felt like doing it..

Also did the 'Bulletin" oil-spray groove mod, even though it's a type1.

While i was making noise and grit, the lifters got the 'Hoover' (Berg?) grooves.

Speaking of lifters.. There are basically two kinds; stock and Hi-Po.
On the left is the Hi-Po version, I think they are Scats (most are).
They have a thinner head to clear a big cam, and bigger oil grooves to aid in getting oil to the top end.
(Same thinking as the 'Hoover (Berg! ) Grooves' I cut into the lifters.
Even without the other oil mods, having the 'valve' open to allow oil thru the lifter, up the pushrod, into the top end is considered good for a hard-run motor.

Here is why the head is thinner; at full lift there needs to be at least .030-.060" clearance for them to float off the nose of the cam if they want

This being an E110, there is plenty of room for me to rev way beyond float anytime I want!
Last time I did one of these, It was an E100, with "LBC" (Large Base Circle) and it needed the thin-head Scats to even work.
The OG German Febis here could not be used.
So they are here for me now.. Good thing.
With the oil grooves connected together, they should work well.
They were low-mileage originals sent out to SLR for a re-grind and parkrize treatment.
They might be a bit heavy, but more on that later when we start noodling with valvetrain..

My first case mock-up was to again carefully check for a spread center main;
Snug the two bare cases together lightly at the six main studs and peer thru the center main saddles lit from behind.
(This was done as the very first step years ago, then deciding to keep this case or toss it in the trash)
Had to do it again, just to be sure it didn't get switched out somehow along the line years ago.
It's important, IMHO, to always make sure junk goes in the trash where it belongs - sure would suck to find out at this point..

Cam-only mock up is next, just the cam and (double-thrust) cam bearings.
The cam (and gear) is lightly (just a drop) oiled, and twirled arround a few times to free it up,
Then it is tapped with a drift/mallet going each way to seat the thrust.
With no other work, is spins free, and measures just so:

Oh, and even though this is a used cam and all, it got the edges broken with a stone,
Just so it looks more like a Webcam..

Main-bearing mock-ups start coming next.
First thing is to make sure the oil holes or grooves in the bearings are going to line up with the case oil galleys.
Mark them at the grooves:

Set a bearing all the way home (deep/square) at the edges of the marks;
Will give you a way to verify that the groove intersects.

There are a few different mock-ups and measurements to determine the mains are sized and working right.
I'll go through a few of my measurement techniques if anyone is interested.
It'll have to be a few of you, because i did them already, but was too preoccupied to take pics.
Including:
Measuring the ID of the main line bore OD for accuracy,
And compare to bearing OD to figure crush.
Both of these were right, at .002 crush.

Measurement of Crank journal OD to bearing ID, to determine uninstalled (pre-crush) measurement. (It was around .0039+ or soo - kind of too big.
(Bible specs .004 as the max for new parts)

Measurement of installed main running clearance (crushed); smaller, but still kinda big,
At around .003 .0035..
There were some differences between the split center main, and the #1 & #3 round mains.

The center main was done all by itself in a torqued case to check that it's ends were holding the parting line open a tad.
This has been seen lately, where the bearings were wrong at the parting line.
(Jake showed me this years ago).
Sometimes need to sand the parting faces of the center main to keep it from holding the cases apart.

Because the split center main is hard to measure, and not so round,
it can be tricky.
it's also the only main that lends itself to the use of a Plastigauge - just for sanity check reasons.

Check out this 'sanity check' measurement;
Not a 'real measurement, but a decent estimation, and 'ballpark'...
Only pic i got, because this might be the only one someone hasn't seen already..
You can 'clunkclunk' the crank up and down in the mains (no oil) to get your measurement..

On that note, I'm starting to ramble and babble stuff that nobody would ever read,
So I'll end it here.

There were a dozen or so mock-ups of the mains in the case before I could say with real confidence what the sizes were installed (crushed).

All the mains ended up almost at the loose end of spec for new parts, up in the high .003s, so, not ideal,
But,
What can you do?!?!
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[A E Numan]

I'm finding your ramblings interesting, Please keep it up!

[Clatter]

A few little bits of progress...

Took the case to Jim's for a turn through the dishwasher-like parts washer.
The idea is to cut the oil (ATF) from all that grinding, with a bit o' hot water/soap.
And also to get an 'etch' or 'tooth' so the glue will stick..

(I also gave all gasket surfaces a quick scuff with some Scotch-Brite).

Spent a bit of time stacking up a bunch of distributor drive shims,
Racers like to take the slop out of the distributor drive.
John at ac.net says .007" is your target backlash here.

When each shim is .025" or so thick, I'm not exactly sure how to do that..


See also the Ultra Grey spooged on the back of the case savers from behind;
Nice to keep them from weeping oil when assembled..

It's really an exercise in futility if you have a bent-up distributor clamp.
Check out this beat-shitless China Chiny chrome piece of crap:

Holding .007" is like teaching a pig to sing.
I spent a bunch of time trying to straighten it out in the vise.
No doubt it will bend all back taco-shaped when I tighten down the clamp.
Found an OG German one - all bent up worse than this..


Dug a set of OG German head studs out of the stash..
Wire-wheeled the crust off of them,
Wiped them down with carb cleaner,
and gave them a dusting of rattle-bomb.
Not really sure why I always do this,
But it feels good for some reason.

The crank came together, in all of it's .004"-clearance glory.
Sucks then the numbers are at halfway-worn-out when you put things together new.
Most people don't pay that much attention, so they get this good feeling,
And maybe that makes all the difference, dig?
I'll just start pretending now that my 'fresh motor' is actually tight, OK?
Humor me..

Anybody have the free length handy for the pressure-relief springs?
The bible has these tests for the poundage at installed length and all,
And I don't have a good way of measuring all that..
Anyone?
Did I grab the right springs from my junk drawer here?
Please and thanks.

It seems to feel right, or maybe too long here..

Anyhow, the hooptie is coming together!
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Clatter]

And, getting ready to degree in a cam,
Go here to get the card..

http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,10956.0.html
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Clatter]

A small detail; making up some measuring rods.

These are old lifters with 'exactly-measured and flat' pieces of rod JB-Welded into place.
This will allow me to put an indicator on the ends of these, and get good lift measurements.


Both of these are to be the exact same length/height..

Will detail their use here soon, once the rest of the parts show.

Part of the process..
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Lingwendil]

I love these sorts of builds. Ramble on all you want!
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73 super beetle thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=649622 Back on the Road!

Modify your Kadrons for SVDA http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8115884#8115884

Cast iron VJU4BR8 SVDA reference thread- https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Need replacement filters for original Kadron aircleaners? WIX #42087 is a perfect fit, as is Napa Gold #2087!

[Clatter]

Aww, shucks, guys.. Thanks for the props.

Sometimes, being a rambly wierdo for these things like i am,
I gotta wonder if I'm just ranting or babbling like some guy downtown pushing a shopping cart!
Gesturing wildly, yelling at nobody, wearing two left shoes...


Couple of other details..

Here, it shows how they balanced the crank;
That crank 'cheek', between the two rod journals, they shaved it down right there.

Also, along the bottom on this pic,
Where they drilled the lightening holes (fast like lightning! ),
They also supplemented their drilling material-removal work with some grinding away of material.

What happened is, that they threw up a big scraggly burr,
And left it there..

So,
You will often see people get brave enough to de-burr a cam:

It was actually more important for this project, to do the same to the crank.
You can't really see it in the above 'before' crank pic,
But,
There were quite a few spots where there were burrs and rough edges.
There were also a couple of loose flappy-spots where there was weld slag from the counterweight weld-on operation.
They didn't detail/remove these bits, and they were primed to come loose!
I shoulda gotten a pic, but was rocking at the time, all suited up and oiled down.
If you look closely at the assembled pic here,
You can see that the crank got the same Dremel/stone treatment that the cam had gotten;
Notice that the sharp edges have been 'broken' all the way around.

There is NO doubt that that thing would have shed some of it's scrappy little burrs when subject to the 'hurricane of oil' when running.

Having had my first couple of counterweighted cranks in the past,
It was a sort of awed reverence that kept me from daring to touch it..
Now,
I know better!
Pick free any little loose bits, before they fly off and cause trouble, no matter how small!


Looking again at this pic:

See those scaly, flaky pieces all along that cam bearing support?
(bottom left-middle of pic)
Yes! Those are indeed flaky/scaly layers of crusty crap just like they look!
All of that got scraped down with a screwdriver, and it all just flaked and crumbled away..!

It was dispatched with a rotary burr in a die-grinder,
But you just gotta wonder what other kind of bearing-scoring surprises lurk in there,
And where they might just hide...
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Clatter]

For archival purposes:

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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[kiwighia68]

I'm never going to feel guilty again for rambling on when talking to a bunch of philistines who sit there with their eyes glazed over. If just one of them learns something from me, the job's done.

Count me as one of the ones learning from your rambling, friend, and please ramble on.
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Festina lente - hasten slowly
1968 Ghia named Emiko
Resto completed Dec 2015

[pondervwmike]

This is a great thread keep up the good work clatter. The info in here is invaluable. Especially to us ignorant folk.
Thanks
Mike
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1967 Cal Look Beetle Street Car in re-restoration,customization. Mom and Dad bought it in 1983 when I was 4.
2010 VW Tiguan
2000 BMW 528i
1997 Jeep Cherokee
2127cc build thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=681556&highlight=

[Clatter]

Thanks for the props, guys.
Guess I'll continue, then!


Said I'd check how far the main bore was off-center from the case parting line..
First step, break out the "Horse Brand" cheap China depth mic.
This thing was only like $40..

A dowel pin from a flywheel enables the flat thimble to get a measurement of the bore saddle to case parting line.

Both sides..

Far as i can measure, the depth is the same on both sides.
It's not the greatest super-accurate measurement, but certainly within a thou.
This does reflect the hunch I had earlier; that older German cases don't have the main tunnel off-center as much as later Brazilian/Mexican/Etc.



Time for a couple of measurements to look for crookedness of the cam and crank..
Start with another China gauge - this one is supposed to measure tenths.
And it kind of does..

Stab the cam into the bearings on one half,
Chuck the gauge into the mag base, and attach using the old oil pump cover.
Turning the cam over, it doesn't register anything but noise.
The needle jumps around a bit because of the roughness of the cam, sticky mechanism in the gauge, and some dirt and whatnot,
But,
There is no trend towards a difference in the measurement from one side to the other.
Shows that the cam is straight, and not bent.

Threw it on the #1 journal on the crank,
And no measure-able bend-age was to be found.

Another view:

Did the same on #4, because it can be reached.
Shoulda done this before the #3 bearing was on,
And i couldn't seem to jig up doing the center jounal,
But,
If there's no humpage to be found at the ends when all the bearings are installed,
We can deduce that the crank is running true.


Drug out the Plastigauge, and did some sanity-checking.
Cam:

Center main was a little big, as mentioned in an earlier installment.
Don't try this at home kids, this is only for this particular set of bearings.
They were not flat where they touched, and were being held open a tad, giving me almost .004.
They were lumpy, with tiny gaps where they contacted each other.
This was just a few strokes on some 400 wet/dry.

Got the center main more in line with the others..

I'll break out the dial bore gauge in the next issue, to verify what we are seeing here already, through fit, and plastigauge.
Me and my little friends in my head, We love it when we can make the plastigauge and bore gauge measurements match.


Looked at the cam, to be sure the oil pump tang hadn't wallered out the slot.
Not too bad..

Got my new 26 Schadek from ac.net.
Yeah, the OD of the pump body is a bit small..
Started measuring the depth of the tang into the slot of the cam above.
Looks like the shaft can be pushed a bit deeper; we'll go into more depth with that ( ) later..

Oops, Mom is mad, I'm wasting 'our' time on the Internet again..
More to come hopefully soon.
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?