Coil wiring on 74 beetle

[cetner]

Hey everyone, I made a post on the gallery but I’ll post here too. I bought a 74 beetle (convertible) 2 days ago. The people we bought it from said all it needed was a starter, to start. Me and my stepdad are fixing it, and we started with installing the coil, we connected the wires where we believed they should go. Then started charging the battery, once it was charged we tried starting and nothing. We then we touched the wire in the picture to the coil and it started but then stalled out, assuming its the old gas that we will replace soon. So that wire obviously belongs, we don’t know where and what wires on there don't belong. So if someone can help guide me to the right thing, I’d appreciate it!

Thanks,
Christian

[67rustavenger]

Black wire goes to the + side of the coil. The green one goes to the - side of the coil.

The posts are marked +(15) and - (1).
Rotate/ orient the coil so the -(1) side is pointing toward the intake manifold. Otherwise it gets confusing for folks that have a similar issue.

Welcome to the samba.

Good Luck
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[cetner]

[Cusser]

[67rustavenger]

Ah! I missed that cusser.

The red wire on the left of the carb. Where does that attach? That would be the idle cutoff solenoid cut off power. Without it attached the car may start when cold. But once it warms up. The idle circuit comes into play and the solenoid cutting off the fuel after the choke circuit has finished.
Of course. If this is the case. Then the choke(in theory) would not function. As they are wired together. But strange things happen in 40+ year old cars.

Good Luck.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[bluebus86]

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/Beetle_1973up_Clymers_3.jpg


also....

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php

Good Luck, Keepa Buggin!
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Stop introducing dirt into your oil when adjusting valves ... https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=683022

[allenw]

I can not believe no one jumped on the get the fuel filter our of the engind compartment band wagon so. Remove the fuel filter that is in the engine compartment before you have a fire.

[Meiang]

Quote
"I can not believe no one jumped on the get the fuel filter our of the engind compartment band wagon so. Remove the fuel filter that is in the engine compartment before you have a fire"

If you use:
1) Quality correct size fuel hose.
2) Quality hose clamps which don't distort/damage the fuel hose or filter.
3) Quality fuel filter with the correct sized connections.
4) Route the fuel hose correctly and locate the filter so that it does not touch anything.
5) Check the above regularly.
there is no problem with locating the fuel filter in the engine compartment.

My experience is only based on 30 years + and over 500,000 miles of driving a Beetle in hot and rough road conditions.

If you comprise on any of the above then you may get a leak at some stage. Looking at most of the photographs on the forum where people put the fuel filter in the engine bay they often comprimise on one or more of the above points.

These days it is more likely for a fuel leak to occur when people install cheap fuel pumps or use cheap aftermarket fuel pump overhaul kits which leak because the rubber parts don't fit even after relocating the fuel filter.

[sb001]

[bluebus86]

[sb001]

[bluebus86]

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

[VW_Jimbo]

Back in the day, Bugs would come in, maybe one a month, with the engine burnt to a crisp. The first few times, I just ignored them. After several months of this pattern, I started to get curious. I started to take note of the variables within those compartments. Bottom line WAS NOT the fuel filter being in the engine compartment. That would be the quick, uneducated guess, although it did contribute to the problem. It was, A FUNDAMENTAL LACK OF BASIC MANTENANCE PRACTICES! Basic, like in, adjusting the valves every 3000 miles and LOOKING at the fuel filter for any issues. Some of these cars never had seen a shop until they were towed in because of that engine fire. Some came in only for a major repair but never returned for standard setvices. Those cars are the ones that burned. How do I know.....Of the 2000 plus aircooled cars I worked on, that received regular maintenance (maybe 1000), not one of those ever burned, but several of the other 1000 did. This was the same for all of us wrenching in our shop.

Bottom line is, basic maintenance practices offset the need to relocate the fuel filter. I still keep my fuel filter in the engine compartment and I have never, in over 35 years, had an issue.

Do I think everyone should do as I do - NO! If you are unwilling to look at that fuel filter regularly and want to ignore it, you should relocate it. If you are going to be mindfull of it, then put it where you want to!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Cusser]

My own 1835cc engine, with metal fuel filter in my 1971

When I resurrected my 1970 last year with rebuilt 1600cc, I initially added same all-metal fuel filter under the fuel tank, as some on The Samba have done. I rebuilt the original square-top Pierburg fuel pump. On two occasions, the VW stalled out while driving, lack of fuel getting to the carburetor. So I ended up removing that fuel filter altogether, just have the little conical filter inside the Pierburg fuel pump, as VW intended; and that has worked fine for me.

My 1970 fuel tank was not rusted even after 47 years, so I figure that I'm not likely to get crap in the fuel system. Gas pumps at the filling stations all have filters so gas delivered to your fuel tank is pretty particle-free.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[sb001]

[bluebus86]

[heimlich]

You have a wire coming out of the car and that connects to the coil. Then you have the distributor which connects to the other side. Another wire connects from coil to the drivers side of the carb. Another wire connects from coil to passenger side of carb. That is all you need to start.

If the car has been sitting you should crank it awhile or prime the carb in order to get fuel running into the carb.

If you prime it and it runs but doesn't stay running you may have a fuel delivery issue.

These are what I consider the basics.
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[Mexican beetle]

[Cusser]