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xnorm
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 12:11 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hi guys,
can anyone tell me if the drop gates for type2 49-67 doublecab truck are the same size as the drop gates for the type2 68-79 doublecab truck?

This is for my 69 doublecab...I am seeing lots of gates for sale for the earlier model, but none for the later model. So just wondering if they are swap-able and will fit on both models.

Thanks Xnorm
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 1:14 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

xnorm wrote:
Hi guys,
can anyone tell me if the drop gates for type2 49-67 doublecab truck are the same size as the drop gates for the type2 68-79 doublecab truck?

This is for my 69 doublecab...I am seeing lots of gates for sale for the earlier model, but none for the later model. So just wondering if they are swap-able and will fit on both models.

Thanks Xnorm

No, not without serious work, splitty gates are 2 or 3 inches shorter than bay gates. The tailgates interchange as is but lack the holes for the tail lights.
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xnorm
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 1:25 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks Busdaddy! That what needed to know!

Take it easy!
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Hikelite
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 12:46 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I'm pretty sure this question is stupid enough Smile

My Bus is 50 years years old now. I parked her in 2001.
As I begin the process to get her back to road worthy condition, I am concerned about the wiring. Do I need to be worried?

Working on and troubleshooting electrical and wiring don't worry me, but 50 yo insulation does. The bus is getting repainted, so while it's all apart, I'm wondering if it might be prudent to replace the old wiring?

If the answer is yes, can I still count on Wolfsburg West? They have a good reputation with me, but that was formed in the 90's. :p
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 1:50 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Unless its suffered some catastrophic melt down in the past don't worry about it, the insulation seems to last forever. You will want to clean some of the terminals to remove 50 years of corrosion of course.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 7:03 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I agree 100% with Busdaddy. The only issues I've seen on VW's with the insulation is in the engine compartment where it experiences heat cycles. The rest of the harness through the VW is usually perfect w/the exceptions of removing the corrosion off the terminals. Of course, bonus points for throwing out any cheap Autozone type butt connectors and replacing them with the correct barrel ones.
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cv66seabear
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 8:19 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks for posting this thread - I've been wondering if I should do a wiring harness, just on general purposes. Robbie told me not to do it until it had been checked over, which he and I hope to do in May.
Thanks again!
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 2:33 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

cv66seabear wrote:
Thanks for posting this thread - I've been wondering if I should do a wiring harness, just on general purposes. Robbie told me not to do it until it had been checked over, which he and I hope to do in May.
Thanks again!


Very few VW's have their harnesses replaced unless they were hacked to oblivion by previous owners or are being pan off restored. My 67 and 70' bus have the original harnesses in them. I cleaned all the connection and removed any butt connector. I also replaced many connectors that were weak or damaged with new, correct barrel connectors.
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Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
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**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
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Hikelite
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 2:25 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Back in my youth, I rewired my 1970 bug that had an electrical fire under the hood. I don't recall who made the harness. I bought it at the local shop in Riverside, CA. What I DO recall is how bad it was. I had a wiring diagram, but this harness did not match it exactly. I got it running and most things working, but since it was in an accident a few months later, I can't recall what specific issues it had.

Anyway... my bus DID have an engine fire about a year before it was parked. It was a very minor (lucky) fire, so the wiring still worked, but it has definitely heated up.

With these 2 experiences in mind, it got me considering a rewire.

I appreciate the input and will take the advise. I'll just evaluate the wiring in the engine bay and replace as needed. Yes, I will use the original style connectors. The goal with this mild restore is to be as original as possible.

The harness is NOT hacked. I'm the 2nd owner, and took great pains to ensure it wasn't hacked up. Specifically, when my 9 prong box stopped working in the 90's, I was too poor to afford a new one. A local shop offered to rewire it to use a cheaper relay, but I would have lost my flashers. I declined and decided to wait until I could afford the gold plated flasher relay (it must have had gold in there based on the prices). I never did find a functioning used one in my junk yard tours (oohhhh how I miss strolling through the VW section of the socal junkyards in the 80's and 90's), so it still has the broken one.

Which leads me to another stupid question... (or maybe less stupid, but either way here it is)

Is this product https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211953227BWW
a replacement? Did Wolfsburg West figure out how to make it without all the gold plating?

I seem to recall WW had good stuff back when I was still driving the bus. I hope that's still the case.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 3:20 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hikelite wrote:
Back in my youth, I rewired my 1970 bug that had an electrical fire under the hood. I don't recall who made the harness. I bought it at the local shop in Riverside, CA. What I DO recall is how bad it was. I had a wiring diagram, but this harness did not match it exactly. I got it running and most things working, but since it was in an accident a few months later, I can't recall what specific issues it had.

Anyway... my bus DID have an engine fire about a year before it was parked. It was a very minor (lucky) fire, so the wiring still worked, but it has definitely heated up.

With these 2 experiences in mind, it got me considering a rewire.

I appreciate the input and will take the advise. I'll just evaluate the wiring in the engine bay and replace as needed. Yes, I will use the original style connectors. The goal with this mild restore is to be as original as possible.

The harness is NOT hacked. I'm the 2nd owner, and took great pains to ensure it wasn't hacked up. Specifically, when my 9 prong box stopped working in the 90's, I was too poor to afford a new one. A local shop offered to rewire it to use a cheaper relay, but I would have lost my flashers. I declined and decided to wait until I could afford the gold plated flasher relay (it must have had gold in there based on the prices). I never did find a functioning used one in my junk yard tours (oohhhh how I miss strolling through the VW section of the socal junkyards in the 80's and 90's), so it still has the broken one.

Which leads me to another stupid question... (or maybe less stupid, but either way here it is)

Is this product https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211953227BWW
a replacement? Did Wolfsburg West figure out how to make it without all the gold plating?

I seem to recall WW had good stuff back when I was still driving the bus. I hope that's still the case.

WW's site seems to be down.
If it's the 2 relay setup they offer in place of the 12 volt 9 pin relay then yes it works fine.
Another option is to find a 9 pin hazard switch and rewire the system to the mid 69-71 style which uses a regular flasher relay.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

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Hikelite
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 4:11 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Hikelite wrote:
Back in my youth, I rewired my 1970 bug that had an electrical fire under the hood. I don't recall who made the harness. I bought it at the local shop in Riverside, CA. What I DO recall is how bad it was. I had a wiring diagram, but this harness did not match it exactly. I got it running and most things working, but since it was in an accident a few months later, I can't recall what specific issues it had.

Anyway... my bus DID have an engine fire about a year before it was parked. It was a very minor (lucky) fire, so the wiring still worked, but it has definitely heated up.

With these 2 experiences in mind, it got me considering a rewire.

I appreciate the input and will take the advise. I'll just evaluate the wiring in the engine bay and replace as needed. Yes, I will use the original style connectors. The goal with this mild restore is to be as original as possible.

The harness is NOT hacked. I'm the 2nd owner, and took great pains to ensure it wasn't hacked up. Specifically, when my 9 prong box stopped working in the 90's, I was too poor to afford a new one. A local shop offered to rewire it to use a cheaper relay, but I would have lost my flashers. I declined and decided to wait until I could afford the gold plated flasher relay (it must have had gold in there based on the prices). I never did find a functioning used one in my junk yard tours (oohhhh how I miss strolling through the VW section of the socal junkyards in the 80's and 90's), so it still has the broken one.

Which leads me to another stupid question... (or maybe less stupid, but either way here it is)

Is this product https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211953227BWW
a replacement? Did Wolfsburg West figure out how to make it without all the gold plating?

I seem to recall WW had good stuff back when I was still driving the bus. I hope that's still the case.

WW's site seems to be down.
If it's the 2 relay setup they offer in place of the 12 volt 9 pin relay then yes it works fine.
Another option is to find a 9 pin hazard switch and rewire the system to the mid 69-71 style which uses a regular flasher relay.


Link worked for me before I posted and again now.

It looks like a blue version of the thing I have under teh dash. I'll be at the bus on Wednesday adn will pull it out and compare.

I have the pages about how to build my own bookmarked. I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron, but this thing looks like it plugs in like the original. I can paint it black if the color is bothersome Wink
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Terminatez
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 6:09 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Are there any repair or pats for fixing up the locking mechanism inside the ignition key housing?

For some reason my wheel locks as it should.. but even with the correct key it doesn't unlock. I spent about 30 minutes trying different methods to get it loose per the samba but no success.

Last time I had it apart I did notice the nylon tab and the metal U shaped tab inside seemed a bit damage. Wondering if those can be fix or if I need a whole new housing.
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awreed
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 10:04 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I'm selling an EMPI westy rack. Someone asked me if it would fit on a 73' turtle top bus. My initial reaction was definitely not. Am I correct?

How's that for a stupid question.
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white74westy
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 5:47 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Leak down test. Should the engine be cold or warm? Or, should you test it both ways? Any and all help welcome.

Thanks in advance!

a.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 5:53 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

white74westy wrote:
Leak down test. Should the engine be cold or warm? Or, should you test it both ways? Any and all help welcome.

Thanks in advance!

a.

Do the test warm, same deal as a compression test, crack the plugs loose and warm it up, then proceed with the leakdown. No need for a cold test, it won't tell you much unless you already have serious problems.
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white74westy
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 5:56 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:

Do the test warm, same deal as a compression test, crack the plugs loose and warm it up, then proceed with the leakdown. No need for a cold test, it won't tell you much unless you already have serious problems.


As always, thanks busdaddy! Not sure if I have severe problems yet or not? I fear I may. Cold leak down test wasn't all that great. I'll give it another go, in the hopes that things improve.

Cheers
a.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 5:58 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

awreed wrote:
I'm selling an EMPI westy rack. Someone asked me if it would fit on a 73' turtle top bus. My initial reaction was definitely not. Am I correct?

How's that for a stupid question.

Unless the legs are 3 feet long it's going to be a challenge to mount, there's no driprail up near the top and it's narrower than a regular bus drip rail up there to boot.
There's adaptors that bolt on to mount modern racks, but they usually only work with modern racks, sounds like you are SOL on that sale.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 6:00 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Terminatez wrote:
Are there any repair or pats for fixing up the locking mechanism inside the ignition key housing?

For some reason my wheel locks as it should.. but even with the correct key it doesn't unlock. I spent about 30 minutes trying different methods to get it loose per the samba but no success.

Last time I had it apart I did notice the nylon tab and the metal U shaped tab inside seemed a bit damage. Wondering if those can be fix or if I need a whole new housing.

No parts available that I know of, and I've had little sucess repairing damaged stuff in there, a donor steering lock from the classifieds sounds like your best option.
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Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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tonysantacruz
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 8:49 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I just purchased this and I don't think it has the screws. Which ones can I use?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Could they be available at Home Depot?

1970's ignition housing.
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tonysantacruz
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 12:31 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

another question: can I use
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instead of
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
?

I'm trying to purchase the 1974 part from a guy, but he's not answering (methinks he's not too keen on international shipping), so a guy the eBay-like MercadoLibre is selling the second one. He claims it works with my 1974 bus (I have that same thing in my Bug). Question is, can those parts be swapped without any inconvenience? Or should I wait and get the actual canister?
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