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Hurst Shifter rebuild
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gitchesum
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a used Empi and scavenge the parts needed....
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glandnut
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

catbox wrote:
If you have a shifter that is missing the bottom plate what can you do to replace it?

Is scavanging from an EMPI clone the best way?

Thanks for the help...


That will work, but keep in mind you will be using crap mild steel in a critical part of the cage that was originally hardened steel. I have seen Empi shifters with the lower shift gate(square hole the stub shaft pokes through) hogged out almost in an oval shape after 6 months of hard abuse in a sand rail. They are junk.

I continually get customers asking what can be done, and I recommend two things. Find a donor real Hurst cage, or buy a different shifter that is complete. People who don't know what to look for when buying a used Hurst should realize the lack of that bottom lockout plate takes a nice shifter and turns it into a nice doorstop. Keep an eye on the knob threads as well. They can be chased and fixed if mildly damaged, but those who got a T handle with a set screw jammed into them will frequently be past the point of return.
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2017 5:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter rebuild Reply with quote

I've always wondered why Hurst supplied a polished white knob on all the shifters for American cars, but gave us a dull black knob.

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APPLEGREENVW
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 5:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter rebuild Reply with quote

Bruce wrote:
I've always wondered why Hurst supplied a polished white knob on all the shifters for American cars, but gave us a dull black knob.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Great question. Question Where did you get yours? Cool
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APPLEGREENVW
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glandnut wrote:
catbox wrote:
If you have a shifter that is missing the bottom plate what can you do to replace it?

Is scavanging from an EMPI clone the best way?

Thanks for the help...


That will work, but keep in mind you will be using crap mild steel in a critical part of the cage that was originally hardened steel. I have seen Empi shifters with the lower shift gate(square hole the stub shaft pokes through) hogged out almost in an oval shape after 6 months of hard abuse in a sand rail. They are junk.

I continually get customers asking what can be done, and I recommend two things. Find a donor real Hurst cage, or buy a different shifter that is complete. People who don't know what to look for when buying a used Hurst should realize the lack of that bottom lockout plate takes a nice shifter and turns it into a nice doorstop. Keep an eye on the knob threads as well. They can be chased and fixed if mildly damaged, but those who got a T handle with a set screw jammed into them will frequently be past the point of return.

Great info.You should make a video on this subject.
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 11:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter rebuild Reply with quote

APPLEGREENVW wrote:
Bruce wrote:
I've always wondered why Hurst supplied a polished white knob on all the shifters for American cars, but gave us a dull black knob.


Great question. Question Where did you get yours? Cool


Custom made. One off.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 12:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter rebuild Reply with quote

Just waded through all 6 pages of this topic, and learned a lot, Thank You Glandnut and Bruce and everyone else... Very Happy
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 5:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter rebuild Reply with quote

whoever said to get the reverse lockout wire replaced by "holding your mouth right" was absolutely correct...I tried probably 50 times, and finally, after about an hour, it went all the way through...
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 11:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter rebuild Reply with quote

Too late now, but a tip is to curve the wire more than the bend of the shifter. Then when you try to feed the wire down from the top, it will naturally point to the side of the tube nearest the rear of the car. Where the slot is for it.

Dave, you didn't do the reinforcement plate upgrade!
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Dave
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2017 9:12 am    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter rebuild Reply with quote

Bruce wrote:
Too late now, but a tip is to curve the wire more than the bend of the shifter. Then when you try to feed the wire down from the top, it will naturally point to the side of the tube nearest the rear of the car. Where the slot is for it.


Shoot, why didn't I think of that? Thanks, Bruce, I am going to play with this shifter a bit, the nylon plate is nice and tight, but if I have to take it back apart for any reason, I'll be getting one of those steel plates from you..
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 11:23 am    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter rebuild Reply with quote

Got it all back together, and promptly went from first, to reverse. I guess I didn't bring the reverse lockout collar up high enough, so here I go again with that stupid cable, gonna have to make a new one. I know there should be some "spare" when I lift the reverse lockout collar back up, but I don't have anything better to do today.. Cool <EDIT> I figured it out, I had the round reverse lockout collar too low, and it would pop over the bottom plate. I fished a new cable through, got it so the round collar rides in the middle of the raised area, and now it works like a new Hurst Wink
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MonkeySee
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2018 9:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter rebuild Reply with quote

Picked up an old Hurst shifter at a swap meet just for the shift ball and I was looking at it today and turns out it's missing a few pieces. The bottom plate, the side spring that pushes to third/fourth and the side plate. I went back out to the bug to inspect the shifter that was in it and it turns out it is a curved copper shifter in perfect working order. I thought the chrome had all come off and I was going to replace it. Now I have this chrome curve shifter that I don't need. After powering through all six pages on this thread it help me identify my shifter and helped me decide to keep it. Thanks so much.
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aluk
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2018 8:39 am    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter rebuild Reply with quote

Iím having trouble getting the side spring in place and didnít find mention of installing it. Any preferred methods? Thanks, Mitch
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Dibaltic
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2019 7:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter rebuild Reply with quote

I've had this shifter for years waiting for a bug to put it in. Discovered this thread and now I'm wondering if it's a RHD version. Can anyone confirm this for me?

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Miklo
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2019 7:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter rebuild Reply with quote

Dibaltic wrote:
I've had this shifter for years waiting for a bug to put it in. Discovered this thread and now I'm wondering if it's a RHD version. Can anyone confirm this for me?


I have one for a rhd.

Put it in your left hand as if it was in your beetle... Feels good huh.

The way the trigger is cocked to the side is a quick give away.
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Dibaltic
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2019 10:48 am    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter rebuild Reply with quote

Miklo wrote:
Dibaltic wrote:
I've had this shifter for years waiting for a bug to put it in. Discovered this thread and now I'm wondering if it's a RHD version. Can anyone confirm this for me?


I have one for a rhd.

Put it in your left hand as if it was in your beetle... Feels good huh.

The way the trigger is cocked to the side is a quick give away.


Thank you for the information Smile
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carp442
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 5:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Hurst Shifter rebuild Reply with quote

No one ever said how to tighten the pivot ball if itís too loose or heavily worn.
You can lightly plane the 2 inside faces of the nylon blocks to tighten up the clamping force. Lay a piece of 220 grit face up on a flat surface and sand the nylon block face by rubbing it back and forth a few times. Test fit the pivot ball, and repeat the until the ball fits more snug.
Do not over do it- you want to snug it up, not clamp it down.
Lube ball and re-assemble with Bruceís racer plate.
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