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norris Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2009 Posts: 501 Location: Texas
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Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 8:59 pm Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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Thanks Dan. I've got to pull the header and full flow hoses first. Maybe I can get to it later this weekend.
I'm not a mechanic...I am a 63 year old business owner and I'm afraid I'm getting in over my head.
Thanks again everyone. |
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EVfun Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 5481 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 9:38 am Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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norris wrote: |
Here is #3 exhaust at full lift. I just took this pic. I borrowed th dial indicator and don't even know for sure how to read it. I did run thru the measurement 3 times and got the same each time. I hope it's correct.
I sent the pic to John C.....I will be buying parts from ACN....just not sure which rocker assembly's yet
Thanks for your
Looks like .519 lift at valve?
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If you are not looking to change the engine's character I don't see any reason to pull the oil pump. You simply need to measure your current rockers and buy the set of your choice with the same ratio. There are lots of ways to do that. You could measure lift at the rocker adjuster screw and at valve spring cap on the other side of the engine. You can measure the rocker you removed. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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norris Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2009 Posts: 501 Location: Texas
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Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 10:15 am Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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[quote="EVfun"]
norris wrote: |
Here is #3 exhaust at full lift. I just took this pic. I borrowed th dial indicator and don't even know for sure how to read it. I did run thru the measurement 3 times and got the same each time. I hope it's correct.
I sent the pic to John C.....I will be buying parts from ACN....just not sure which rocker assembly's yet
Thanks for your
Looks like .519 lift at valve?
If you are not looking to change the engine's character I don't see any reason to pull the oil pump. You simply need to measure your current rockers and buy the set of your choice with the same ratio. There are lots of ways to do that. You could measure lift at the rocker adjuster screw and at valve spring cap on the other side of the engine. You can measure the rocker you removed. |
Well, on the advice of others, I'm pulling the pump. I'd like to know what cam it has anyway.
Got up early and got it torn down to the pump. The cover came off easily but the pump won't budge. I guess I'll order a pump puller.....there is not one in town.
I have an ARPM case and sure don't want to beat on it too much.
Anyone know any tricks to pull the pump without a puller? Would it help if I pulled the studs?
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pondervwmike Samba Member
Joined: June 16, 2017 Posts: 373 Location: Ponder(Dallas) Texas USA
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Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 10:21 am Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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Dan Ruddock wrote: |
Just loosen the case nuts around the pump and two big screw drivers. Easy
I don’t own a pump puller. |
_________________ 1967 Cal Look Beetle Street Car in re-restoration,customization. Mom and Dad bought it in 1983 when I was 4.
2010 VW Tiguan
2000 BMW 528i
1997 Jeep Cherokee
2127cc build thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=681556&highlight= |
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norris Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2009 Posts: 501 Location: Texas
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Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 10:26 am Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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Oh....the "case" nuts. I see it now. I'll try that.
Thanks for calling my attention to what Dan suggested last night......I was worn out and not paying attention. |
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oldschool5er Samba Member
Joined: May 28, 2007 Posts: 804 Location: Ohio
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Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 4:17 pm Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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I am probably too late but I don't use screwdrivers to pry the pump out. After loosening up the bottom and top case nuts next to the pump. You can take a long sharp pointed punch and put the point right in the middle of the pump housing in the middle of the thick part. the punch will be at an angle back to push the pump housing outward. Tap the punch until the housing moves out from the case. As the housing moves out move to the other side and repeat until you can get a piece of wood on the edge of the pump housing to tap it the rest of the way out. You will leave marks where the point digs in on the pump but it won't distort the housing and it will save the case from having any marks on it which is more important. Believe me I own two ARPM cases and I protect them like anything. They can demand high prices if they are still good. _________________ HRE in Westerville,Ohio
Full machine shop with all types of CNC. Rapid prototyping available, CNC Plasma cutting, 3D printing and Laser engraving.
Last edited by oldschool5er on Wed Feb 14, 2018 6:34 am; edited 1 time in total |
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norris Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2009 Posts: 501 Location: Texas
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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2018 8:34 pm Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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No, you're not too late. Woke up with a touch of the flu. I'll give it a try when I'm feeling better.
Thanks |
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norris Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2009 Posts: 501 Location: Texas
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Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 8:59 pm Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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Missed a couple of days at the office but feeling like I might live.
Bought a pump removal tool but it won't work because the hole for the tool is plugged on the left side....full flow plug I guess. I did lossening the case nuts above and below the pump.
I can't get a punch on the pump from the front side because because of the sump....not even at an angle from the front.
Should I try to remove the studs so maybe I can twist the pump with large channel-locks?
The pump has been on the engine for at least 13 years. It appears that Curil was used as a sealant on the studs and pump to case gasket....this thing is stuck!
I'm sure I could get if off with a screwdriver and a hammer but cannot risk jacking up the case.
Should've not worried about what cam I have! |
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jason Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2002 Posts: 3444 Location: Garage
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Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 10:09 pm Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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Put the pump puller in the side thats open. Its not in there that tight. You can pull it on one side. |
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norris Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2009 Posts: 501 Location: Texas
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Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 10:16 pm Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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Pulled the studs...broke the tool....jacked up the pump, but got it out.
Thanks jason
What is a W3700 cam? That's what is stamped on it.
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norris Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2009 Posts: 501 Location: Texas
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Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 10:27 pm Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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And the pump......I like another just like it. The oil pressure was always in line with Amsoil Signature 5w30. 15lb hot idle and 45lbs at 3000rpm cruise.
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jpaull Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2005 Posts: 3466 Location: Paradise, Ca
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Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 11:50 pm Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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Check with Schneider Cams. I dont think they use that part number anymore, but if you call or email I bet they come up with the specs.
Its close to a Engle w100 meant for 1:1-1:25 rockers
Schneider Racing Cams
1235 Cushman Avenue
San Diego, CA. 92110
Phone: (619) 297-0227
Fax: (619) 297-0577
http://schneidercams.com/contact-us.aspx _________________ [email protected] MPH 1/4 Mile & 8.1 @ 83.7MPH in 1/8 Mile with Mild Type 1 VW Mag Case 2234cc commuter engine in stock weight bug w/only .491 total lift(CB2292 Cam), 42x37 heads, 48idf's, Street tires, Belt on, Mufflers, Pump gas, video of the run here: https://youtu.be/M3SPqMOKAOg
Transmission by MCMScott:
Rhino case, Klinkenberg 4.12, Superdiff, 002 mainshaft with 091 first idler. Weddle 1.48 Third & 1.14 Fourth. |
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oldschool5er Samba Member
Joined: May 28, 2007 Posts: 804 Location: Ohio
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Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 5:44 am Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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The gear looks like a Dial-in Cam used in that era, and the cam could be from them also. The pump has been ground to clear the cam gear bolts and you will have to probably do that to a new one if you put it in. The company is long gone. There is a NOS Dial-in Cam for sale here in the classifieds. When I used them they were not a purple gear though they were like yours. The purple must be a late edition lol. I will try to find my spec sheets on their cams, but at the time you could take any cam and have it drilled to accept that gear so it might or might not be their cam. I am looking for an old spec sheet to see. _________________ HRE in Westerville,Ohio
Full machine shop with all types of CNC. Rapid prototyping available, CNC Plasma cutting, 3D printing and Laser engraving.
Last edited by oldschool5er on Wed Feb 14, 2018 6:30 am; edited 2 times in total |
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bugguy1967 Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2008 Posts: 4343 Location: Los Angeles, CA 90016
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Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 5:51 am Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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These rockers are best used on single spring, low lift applications, like on stock cams, FK 65s, CB cheaters, etc. The bearings can't handle duals. |
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norris Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2009 Posts: 501 Location: Texas
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Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 8:06 am Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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jpaull wrote: |
Check with Schneider Cams. I dont think they use that part number anymore, but if you call or email I bet they come up with the specs.
Its close to a Engle w100 meant for 1:1-1:25 rockers
Schneider Racing Cams
1235 Cushman Avenue
San Diego, CA. 92110
Phone: (619) 297-0227
Fax: (619) 297-0577
http://schneidercams.com/contact-us.aspx |
Thanks jpaull.....I've sent them a picture. |
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norris Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2009 Posts: 501 Location: Texas
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Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 8:14 am Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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Now to figure out which rockers/shafts to use. I'm sure now that I need 1.25s that'll work well with double springs. Should I get new pushrods also? The tapered Autocraft rods look good but if I should buy new ones for the new rockers I will.
Thanks for your input |
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norris Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2009 Posts: 501 Location: Texas
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Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 8:14 am Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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Now to figure out which rockers/shafts to use. I'm sure now that I need 1.25s that'll work well with double springs. Should I get new pushrods also? The tapered Autocraft rods look good but if I should buy new ones for the new rockers I will.
Thanks for your input |
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norris Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2009 Posts: 501 Location: Texas
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Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 8:23 am Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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jpaull wrote: |
Those are cool rockers for the time but theres no oil flow going to those bearings. Get some cb rockers of same ratio and you wont even have to switch pushrods, and you will get full time oiling. |
Thank again jpaull.....I had forgotten that you had suggested this early on. |
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jpaull Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2005 Posts: 3466 Location: Paradise, Ca
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Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 9:08 am Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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Your welcome!
Picture of the pushrods? _________________ [email protected] MPH 1/4 Mile & 8.1 @ 83.7MPH in 1/8 Mile with Mild Type 1 VW Mag Case 2234cc commuter engine in stock weight bug w/only .491 total lift(CB2292 Cam), 42x37 heads, 48idf's, Street tires, Belt on, Mufflers, Pump gas, video of the run here: https://youtu.be/M3SPqMOKAOg
Transmission by MCMScott:
Rhino case, Klinkenberg 4.12, Superdiff, 002 mainshaft with 091 first idler. Weddle 1.48 Third & 1.14 Fourth. |
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sled Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2005 Posts: 6179
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Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 9:39 am Post subject: Re: Auto-craft valve train....what would you do? |
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norris wrote: |
Pulled the studs...broke the tool....jacked up the pump, but got it out.
Thanks jason
What is a W3700 cam? That's what is stamped on it.
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seems like an awfully 'tame' cam for a 2276. I doub't you want to split the case but you could get a cam a bit more suited to a 2276 that would be much more fun to drive, without sacrificing drivability/reliability _________________ drive your split. |
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