Concerned about this frayed alternator wire

[bluebus86]

note sure what that powder is on the yellow plastic connector, I see some in the bottom of the box too. could be some corroded copper dust, fallen from above, or it could be the desinigrated remians from an old plastic part or foam or something like that.

the frayed alternator wire mayhave gotten too hot and caused the insulation to be melted away, that is my guess how'd it get too hot?
well it was either drawing too much current (ir short or heavey load but on system) Or maybe the alternator connection was loose, or dirty, causing high resistance at that point and melted insulation.

copper will blacken when over heated a lot.

if the whole length of that red alternator wire is melted, then it was likely a short or high load, if it is only melted near the terminal, it may only have been a bad connection at that terminal (loose, dirty)

[sfjrod]

Thank you for the explanation bluebus.
The powder on the connector looks just like oxidation you would see on a battery terminal. I will be working on that over the weekend just to see where these wires run and will unplug that yellow connector to see whats going on in there.
Again thanks everyone for your help.
Now on to open a new thread on other electrical questions.

[vanagonjr]

Need help on removing the blue wire!

While installing a GoWesty Alt support bracket, I figured I would clean up all the connections on the alternator.
Where the blue wire connects, there is nut over the stud against the back of the alternator, then the ring connector for the blue wire and connector for another wire and then a nut.
I can't get the outer nut loose without the whole assembly turning. There is not enough access room to get wrench on the lower nut, nor by various techniques, can I keep the bottom nut from turning.

Any suggestions? At this point, I am thinking of leaving it alone!
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John - 86 Wolfsburg Westfalia "Weekender"
Flint reversed 1.8T W/Passat 5-Speed
LiMBO (late model bus club) www.limbobus.org
LiMBO is on Facebook too! https://www.facebook.com/groups/
FAQ thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=525798

[tpinthepack]

I wish someone would just make the entire Digifant Harness so we can get nice new supple wires back in these old Vanagons.
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TP in the Pack (I am a cyclist)
1968 Manx N.O.S. w/ Barrett Chassis
1960 Single Cab 1914 w/ 40 DLRA's
1990 Vanagon DOKA
1972 Super Beetle
1979 Super Beetle Convertible
2011 Porsche Cayenne

[T3 Pilot]

Wishes do come true!


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=350900
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1988 Vanagon

The most important part in every vehicle is the nut behind the wheel......

[tpinthepack]

Kyles site is dead. I will keep checking on it. I will order one of those for sure.
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TP in the Pack (I am a cyclist)
1968 Manx N.O.S. w/ Barrett Chassis
1960 Single Cab 1914 w/ 40 DLRA's
1990 Vanagon DOKA
1972 Super Beetle
1979 Super Beetle Convertible
2011 Porsche Cayenne

[TeamSpatula]

Dredging up this one as my search found it to be about the most relevant. My 86 also has the shredded alternator-power box wire. The other 2 wires in that loom appear to be in perfect shape, good ends, no corrosion, etc.
My question is, any reason why I can't just run an appropriate gas/oil rated stranded 10g wire to replace that one only? Basically cut off as much as I can of the ends of the old one but leave the rest completely isolated inside the old harness so as not to disturb much else. I have learned that touching any wire seems to disturb some random other one which I then have to track down. I'm slowly working my way through the grounds, connections, etc, but this one looks like a very important, but also pretty easy one. All feedback appreciated. Thanks,
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<---Air Cooled Search & Rescue Team - STICKERS & T-shirts for sale!
I NEED A CAMPER!!!! (1971 is ideal but will consider other years)
http://www.TeamSpatula.com