Jeremy's 1967 Squareback Slow Build

[Clatter]

Nice!

You're going for it..


Not really sure what an aluminum oxidizer is,
but,
Those parts look like they were blasted with aluminum oxide as the material used for blasting?

As for aluminum parts, like heads, and the first axial fan you showed,
It's usually best to just leave them bare.
Aluminum (or magnesium like the engine case) doesn't rust.
It can get a bit fuzzy in damp climates, but that doesn't hurt anything.

The steel parts, like the engine tins, can rust.
Best to get something on them sooner than later.
Everything sticks better if it doesn't have greasy handprints underneath.
Wait too long and you'll trap rust under your coating.
I like powder coat vs. paint for engine tins.
It doesn't chip as easily as paint, but can be easy to scratch.
Many like Masterseries, or other two-part paints that harden through chemical reaction. Normal auto paint is like this.
Anything that dries just in the air, like rattle-can, can be fragile, and not last long.
I have washed off rattle-can spray paint with carb cleaner,
And this can happen when you work on motors at times.


Good on you for taking the motor to have a guy with a big impact zap it off.
I did that just recently.
Had me one of those huge aftermarket gland nuts at like 600#, and my impact wouldn't touch it.
Might mean that the last shop put it on tighter - that might just be a good sign?

Many times you will find silicone sealer on these.
Especially around the oil pump.
But that don't make it right...
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[jeremydoc]

[jeremydoc]

So here I am again, back from my hiatus. Had a lot going on, so I didn't get to do as much as I'd like these past few months.

I finally mustered up the courage to splitting the case. Point of no return!

Cleaned up as much as I could

Gotta make sure these are matching

These oil pressure relief valves were really hard to get out

[jeremydoc]

I found a local machine shop a couple miles away from my house. I went and dropped off my case, along with a bunch of other stuff to get properly cleaned in a hot tank. I'll be picking it up on Monday, so until then, gotta find something else to do.

So I think I'm going to end up keeping/repairing my front fenders instead of replacing them. I mocked up my passenger fender to my new(old but not as damaged) front apron just to see exactly how much damage I'm dealing with

A little bit of massaging will do the trick

Before

After

Here it is back on the car. I didn't realize how much it was pushed back. It was about 3 inches!! Now I really gotta replace my apron.

[oxsign]

Really jumping in head first on this one, way to go!!! Looks great but you do have your work cut out for you. Keep it going, this is going no to be great I. The end.
_________________
1971 Squareback, fully bagged, 1776.
Build thread here.....
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

[jeremydoc]

hello.

While waiting for my case, I worked on a number of things.

I picked up some quicksteel to repair a few of the cracks/holes on my fan shroud

I used Rust-Oleum High Heat Ultra spray paint (silver)

The texture looks a bit funky on the parts where I grinded off some of the excess quicksteel

Just wanted to see what it'd look like

I got a whole bunch of stuff blasted as well

Then I began painting! Also used Rust-Oleum High Heat Ultra spray paint (black)

I really like the way this fan turned out

More to come soon

[jeremydoc]

I've been buying a number of things here and there lately. Here are some photos of what I've found

Once I weld these in, There should be no more rust spots

What do you guys think about these? I kinda like them. Keeps the clutter away from the bay.... and a tad bit safer from accidental fires

I discovered that the distributor that came on my motor was an aftermarket one. I found an 009 on craigslist

Luckily for me, it came with an electronic ignition, which was planning on upgrading to in the future anyways! Hope it works.

I also got a pair of Hul's camping hinges. From what I hear, these are a pretty rare accessory to the type 3's? or are they also compatible with any VW?
You can see both of them had broke, but PO welded them back on.... very poorly. They're also missing some chains and stuff. Even one of the hinges was replaced with an actual hinge from what looks like half of a barn door hinge. I'll see what I can do

This was the entire lot I got. There was also a pair of NOS ball joints, side mirror, and distributor drive shaft

I'm still not 100% sure if I want to use the factory exhaust or the aftermarket headers I got a while back. I bought these just in case I end up going the OEM route. Hopefully these are the correct pair for my 67. The guy I bought them from said the older generations, such as mine, has the tubes coming out the side as shown below. can anyone verify that for me?

I got these since the original ones I removed had stripped threads on some. plus.... why not?

I'm not too big a fan of the look of the original push rod tubes. I got these instead. I've heard these leak a bit more since they're a two-piece design, but who's engine doesn't leak?

[jeremydoc]

I started taking the generator apart to clean it up

Blasted the pulleys. I also wire brushed the generator, but didn't take a pic. I'm sure you'll see it somewhere along the line

I took my rocker arm assemblies also. Just cleaning up for now. Not really sure what the plan is yet. Anyone know of a kit that has all new spacers/spring washers?.... or whatever those are called

[jeremydoc]

Picked up my heads from the shop. Brand new intake and exhaust valves, seated them properly. Also new springs and keepers. Camshaft was mic'd and heat treated, lifters resurfaced

I really wanted to confirm my heads were at stock CC specs, but didn't want to pay someone to do that because it looked way too easy. so I made my own CC kit

Also picked up my case. Immediately took it home to clean up some of the oil passages, then masked off and painted with Engine Enamel

The machine shop had some brand new cylinders/pistons for sale. Here's a couple of them shown for color comparison.

Bought some shiny new hardware for the case. Here they are side-by-side with the old hardware

Started mocking things up. All of the hardware is only finger-tightened. They'll all be torqued to spec once I do the actual assembly. Case is currently empty, no crank, no cam, etc.

Here it is with a few more stuff bolted to it.

So the new hardware for the engine case looked so good, it made me want to buy all new hardware for everything else
Old stuff

New Stuff

The is what the under-side looks like with the aftermarket push rod tubes installed.

What it looks like as of right now

More to follow...
...Maybe in a few months, we'll see

[aeroFlutter]

Did you sort out your rocker arms/shafts yet? If not, I would suggest the following:

http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1643.htm

And then the spacers...

http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1644.htm

I have CB's 1.25:1 rocker arm kit on my 1905cc engine and love it!

If you're sticking with stock rockers, the rocker shaft and shims would be great.

-Dave
_________________
Dave
'59 Single Cab
'69 Squareback
'16 Volvo V60 Polestar
'05 JCW MINI

[jeremydoc]

@Dave.. No, I haven't had the chance to even work on the rocker arms yet. Just took them apart and cleaned up. I'll def check out those links when the time comes for me to actually re-assemble them.


Just recently bought a rebuild kit for my Solex Carbs. A bit intimidating, but what hasn't been during this entire build? haha.

Still slowly gathering the last few things I need before I star the final assembly of the engine. More updates to come soon!

[jeremydoc]

So I got a few things done these past couple months

Started with painting the exhaust.
I got the POR-15, High Temp brush-on paint. I did like 3 layers of this stuff

Masked off the holes in prep for Rustoleum High Temp spray paint, 2 coats

It actually came it really nice! (I'm sure most of it will burn off after I actually run the engine, but it's nice to look at for now)

Next up were the heat exchangers. Here they are taken apart. I made sure to wear a face mask as I've heard these potentially have asbestos.

After getting them blasted with aluminum oxide

Painted in POR-15. Again, about 3 coats here

Then painted in Rustoleum High Temp, 2 coats

Prepping for exhaust heat wrap

Complete!

[jeremydoc]

So time for the Air Cleaner. I had this blasted a while ago, but I stored it away for some reason. Now it's back!
Here I am masking off the little spinning tabs. I wanted to do a contrast in color for this. I think original just had them black. I wanted it to pop a bit. Hope you guys like it!

Painting these suckers were tricky. Lots of hard to reach places

What do you think?

While I was at Home Depot getting more paint, I stumbled across these hose clamps

I was also able to source these rubber seals that luckily fits the hose clamps almost perfectly

Used them for the bottom part of these elbows! pretty simple actually
(just realized the rubber seal isn't photographed here, but you get the idea)
Hose clamps worked pretty well with the rubber connector on the top of the elbow as well

[jeremydoc]

Finally the Carbs. Definitely not as intimidating as I had thought they'd be. I guess we'll see if they work or not
I didn't get a chance to take photos of the disassembly prior to cleaning, but here goes one of them still taken apart after being soaked in Berryman's Chem-Dip Carburetor and parts cleaner for 48 hours

I was actually missing the spring holding down the float. Shout out to Sal and Tyler at IPC, formerly Jbugs, for the part!)

Here they are side-by-side

Before/After

P.S. Does any one know the correct orientation for these?

More exciting updates to come soon!
Until then, enjoy this before and after

[Bobnotch]

Nice progress. You've been doing a lot of painting on it, along with prep work.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[jeremydoc]

Since this was my first time doing an engine rebuild, I wanted to practice putting everything together, less the case internals, before I did the final assembly. I'd say I put together, took apart, put back together this engine at least a dozen times. I did this so I could know exactly what to expect and ensure I understand how everything is supposed to fit together once all torqued down to spec. Below are some photos of the "completed" engine build (no camshaft, no crankshaft, no piston rods, no pistons, no lifters, no push rods, no cooling fan).

[jeremydoc]

So after learning how to rocker arm assembly works, I cleaned them up in the same chem-dip I used to clean the carburetors. I think I had them soaked in there for a solid 2 days

[jeremydoc]

Velios Machine Shop checked out my crank shaft. Everything MICd out alright. The case has been cut once over at .020 so I had to get .020 oversized bearings. Turns out that #020 stamped on the top of the case signified just that. I've never tried plastigage before, so this was a first for me.

The shop gave me a torque spec sheet they suggested I follow....I didn't. Some of the values were different from the Bentley Manual, so I went with the numbers from the book instead.

I can't remember which order piston rods they went to, but all the numbers looked good.

When I did the first oil change on page 1, one of the studs for the oil cover came off. I got a new stud to replace it and even put thread locker, but it still kept coming off, so I ended up using this. I used the extra nut to lock it down in place

Bearings with sharpie marks on it. This really helped me line it up to the dowel pin when I was dropping in the new crank shaft assembly.

Crank case half with crankshaft assembly and cam shaft. all lubed up with assembly and camshaft lube.

So i closed everything up. Gasket sealer and torqued down all the nuts. Then I saw this.....

Had to open it up with the case splitter again, place the cam shaft plug, re-apply the gasket sealer, and close it one last time!!

[jeremydoc]

One thing I knew I didn't wan't to get into was adjusting the end play. I knew the flywheel needed to be torqued like a thousand foot lbs also. I just didn't feel comfortable setting that myself since I know that's such a crucial setting for the engine. If it's off by a little bit, it could cause huge problems in the future. I took it over to a shop down the street called European Motorworks where they also installed my new main seal for me.

I hand-tightened the head studs and placed rubber bands through the rods so they wouldn't be banging on things during transport

This is how I picked it up from them the next day

They also resurfaced the flywheel for a small price too, so that was cool of them

[jeremydoc]

Now final assembly can begin!

I used the double-nut method to torque down the head studs. Once those were in, I gathered up the piston/cylinder kit. These are just stock 85.5mm barrels

So after I got my cylinder heads inspected at the machine shop, I CC'd them so I could find the compression ratio once assembled. All I needed was just the deck height, which I'm measuring in the photo's below. I used a 1x2x3 block and some extended sockets to torque down the cylinder and used a caliper to measure on 4 points around the piston. Then I took the average of each value.

Below are the measurements I got:

4 points on Cylinder #1
.050" / .052" / .055" / .054"
Average deck height on Cylinder #1
.052"

4 points on Cylinder #2
.052" / .052" / .055" / .055"
Average deck height on Cylinder #2
.0535"

4 points on Cylinder #3
.052" / .056" / .057" / .059"
Average deck height on Cylinder #3
.056"

4 points on Cylinder #4
.049" / .046" / .050" / .052"
Average deck height on Cylinder #4
.04925"


Cylinder 4 had the smallest deck height, meaning compression on #4 would be a bit higher?


This is with cylinder heads torqued down. I kept the brown cardboard paper to keep things from falling into the case

One side done

Both sides