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1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct!
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jays58s
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 7:30 pm    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

Here's a nice example of an April of '55 36hp, aside from the hideous fuel and oil filters lol.

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motofly196
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 8:40 pm    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

Is that a 1- case? Looks like it starts with 150? Cylinder tin looks later in the pic. But I'm looking at it on my phone, hard to tell. I'm still unsure on the fan shrouds, does 54-55 have the wire harness tab to the left of the generator? I have a few that don't have that tab that are early shround. Those are what I'm using on my 55 engines.
That is a nicely done engine! What did you use for the rear tin, an early "finger" tin?
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jays58s
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 9:21 pm    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

motofly196 wrote:
Is that a 1- case? Looks like it starts with 150? Cylinder tin looks later in the pic. But I'm looking at it on my phone, hard to tell. I'm still unsure on the fan shrouds, does 54-55 have the wire harness tab to the left of the generator? I have a few that don't have that tab that are early shround. Those are what I'm using on my 55 engines.
That is a nicely done engine! What did you use for the rear tin, an early "finger" tin?


This is the engine in the 55 I’m hoping to have this coming Sunday, I’m keeping my fingers crossed. It’s the original engine to the car, the car is even registered to the engine number. (That’s how they were registered back in the day.). I haven’t gotten to look it over really good, but I’ll know more about what’s correct or not if I get it Sunday. The shroud is for sure correct though, that I do know. Follow the wiring, you can see it holds the wires just where they should be held.
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FRK
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 11:52 am    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

1964 to 1954 wrote:
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O.K. pick it apart. I haven't painted the generator pulley and nut yet. Also the Air cleaner needs painted gloss and sticker applied. Otherwise I consider it done, unless. I believe the thick lip on that pulley is correct.

Is that a '54 or '55? and what month?
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1964 to 1954
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 4:40 pm    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

So the case is not correct but I was hoping no one would be able to read the number. The forward engine tin is correct with the finger. All tin has pressed nuts 54-55 not weld nuts. The engine that most of the parts came off was an August 54 (the case didn't meet my standards) so I believe the cylinder tin is correct without the welded nut cover pieces. If anyone knows when that changed let me know. I also cannot find any information on the correct color for the uterus. I believe they were black. The sticker will come off the voltage regulator and the pulley is a thick lip. I am in the market for last week September engine case as some day I will redo it. For now I needed the engine done. The engine shroud has two wire tabs. One on the right and another barely visible left of the carb. The shroud has pressed nuts. I'm bothered the carb isn't correct and is that obvious. I guess I'll contact Ed Fall and get the correct one. I wasn't aware they were that easy to spot.
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56samba
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 10:15 am    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

Hi,
this could be a stupid question:
I think I read the complete topic but couldn't find any information about a 54/55 breastplate.
I'm asking, because I'm planning to build a May 54 enigne that should be really original. Already have most of the parts including a Uterus manifold, BR3 dizzy and all the other stuff.
On my engine, there can be found many 25hp parts, like the upper generator pulley, wire tube clamps, the tin behind the pulley, fuel pump tin and the rockers I think.
So there are are many tin parts that were used in the time before 1954 and also for a period in 54. The shoe boxes also have the three screw holes, so the breastplate must look definitly different than -55 and up. Does anybody know if it's identical to 25hp with the hole for the oil filler or looks this spot already like on normal 36 breastplates?

Thanks
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splitjunkie
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 2:57 pm    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

1964 to 1954 wrote:
So the case is not correct but I was hoping no one would be able to read the number. The forward engine tin is correct with the finger. All tin has pressed nuts 54-55 not weld nuts. The engine that most of the parts came off was an August 54 (the case didn't meet my standards) so I believe the cylinder tin is correct without the welded nut cover pieces. If anyone knows when that changed let me know. I also cannot find any information on the correct color for the uterus. I believe they were black. The sticker will come off the voltage regulator and the pulley is a thick lip. I am in the market for last week September engine case as some day I will redo it. For now I needed the engine done. The engine shroud has two wire tabs. One on the right and another barely visible left of the carb. The shroud has pressed nuts. I'm bothered the carb isn't correct and is that obvious. I guess I'll contact Ed Fall and get the correct one. I wasn't aware they were that easy to spot.


I have seen the uterus painted black and also flat grey. Both appeared to be original paint. Where did you locate your manifold because they are probably the rarest manifold that VW ever produced due to the rust out problem? I tend to think that they were black and changed to grey at some point during production or perhaps after production ceased on spare parts. How long spares were available I don't know because we know they were a defective design and were replaced en mas at some point.

I know John Henry repaired a rotted out one by cutting a hole in the jacket and JB Welding a patch on the intake runner inside the jacket and then welding a patch to repair the jacket hole.

He recommended at the time and I agree that if you are going to run any uterus manifold that you should block the heat risers off to hopefully prevent them from rotting out the intake runner.

This is what will happen eventually if you don't block the risers and they still might do it.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is the thread where the uterus was first identified and discussed.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...p;start=10
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56samba
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2017 6:18 am    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

I have two of these manifolds and both of them are original paint and original to the engines. One is May 54 and the other one very early Jan. 55. Both of them are painted black. I guess a grey tone would give a nice accent, but black appears to be original.
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Suboval
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2017 9:08 pm    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

56samba wrote:
I have two of these manifolds and both of them are original paint and original to the engines. One is May 54 and the other one very early Jan. 55. Both of them are painted black. I guess a grey tone would give a nice accent, but black appears to be original.


My original one is painted black too.
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Chrisisw
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 3:28 am    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

Yesterday I tried to fit my thin lip crank case pulley to my 1954 engine.

However, when I fitted it to the engine, it was really hard to turn the engine by hand. After reviewing the later crank case pulley I removed from the engine, it seems as if the 'height' of the centre part of the thin lip pulley that goes into the engine case is higher than the 'height' of the centre part of the later pulley. Hope this description makes sense.

Can anyone confirm the difference in heights of the centre parts and if this could case the engine to turn hard by hand?

P.S. With the pulley removed, the engine turns really easy by hand.
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motofly196
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 6:51 am    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

When you compare your later pulley to the earlier pulley, can you check the the snout that fits into the case with a micrometer? Is it possible there is corrosion on that part that is rubbing the case? I can't check mine right now, they are buried in the shed. But when I do I'll update what I find here.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 3:11 am    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

We compared both pulleys and the sizes were almost identical. However, after Ed machined the thin lip pulley one more time and removed some burrs from it, the pulley now fits like a glove.

So on with the rebuild...
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BASILISK
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:54 pm    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

I have a question about cylinder engine tin.
What is the difference between 54-55 and later oval tin?
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D-train
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:58 pm    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

BASILISK wrote:
I have a question about cylinder engine tin.
What is the difference between 54-55 and later oval tin?

Have u read the whole thread? It’s in there a few times. No of holes at the front of them and raised around the case nut pressings.
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jays58s
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 11:28 am    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

This is a picture of a 1955 Euro built June 10th with its original 36hp and only 28,800km. (Picture pulled from Tom Eitnier’s VVPS Facebook page). Note the fuel pump....

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Chrisisw
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 6:12 am    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

I have seen several engines where the connector screws of the voltage regulators are screwed in from beneath. It makes sense as the D+ and DF wire connectors from the generator fit better.

Pictures borrowed from this thread:

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Could anyone tell me how the voltage regulator connector screws should be fitted?

Thanks!
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 12:46 pm    Post subject: Fan shroud Reply with quote

Iam i right that the fan shroud is same from June 1952 to august 1955?

It shall not have the bananapressing on rear side.


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And the wire holder near the bult to generatorplate on front.

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Not this bananapressing.

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Last edited by sweden on Sun Mar 18, 2018 1:16 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 4:26 pm    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

I think non-banana stamping is 25hp only. On my June 54 engine, you can find the banana stamping. I'm going to post pictures of the disassembled engine including the domed cylinders Wink
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 7:28 pm    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

56samba wrote:
I think non-banana stamping is 25hp only. On my June 54 engine, you can find the banana stamping...


X2. My early 36hp fan shrouds have both the "banana" stamping and the welded tab.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 1:37 am    Post subject: Re: 1954 & 1955 engines whats not correct! Reply with quote

My mars oval 1953 25 hp have the non banana shroud.

But i now bought an february 1954 30 hk engine and that have the non banana shroud to. But it may have been exchanged sometime.


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