Sealing head studs inside the heads???

[andk5591]

Yeah - I know this is a stupid question...and I have installed tons of heads. Well, not tons, but a few....But we are counting on just the flat washers and nuts to keep oil from leaking around the head studs. Getting ready to put an engine back together and am seeing evidence of leakage in this area. Does anybody use anything? Was pondering aviation sealer on the backside of the washers.....
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D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
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Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...

[[email protected]]

use a non-hardening sealant. RTV or Curil works well here.
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[slalombuggy]

I just put them on dry and no leaks, but I must be lucky. IF you use RTV make sure you don't get it in the threads or you'll be pulling the studs out to clean them next time around.

[Dale M.]

[jpaull]

I used no sealer, and they leaked.

Pulled the nuts/washers, cleaned all with brake cleaner and used permatex high tack sealent in the brush top can. All good now.
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[email protected] MPH 1/4 Mile & 8.1 @ 83.7MPH in 1/8 Mile with Mild Type 1 VW Mag Case 2234cc commuter engine in stock weight bug w/only .491 total lift(CB2292 Cam), 42x37 heads, 48idf's, Street tires, Belt on, Mufflers, Pump gas, video of the run here: https://youtu.be/M3SPqMOKAOg

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[anthracitedub]

I always seal underneath the washers...

[clonebug]

Permatex Ultra Black works good too.
Available at your local FLAPS.
Put a bead on the bottom of the washer and install.
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[74 Thing]

Loctite 574 on the backside of the washers-.just a little will do

[CLKWRK]

I have been using permatex aircraft sealant on the head studs with case savers that are open to the crank case interior, they have never leaked on me
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[mark tucker]

I would not use RTV. I do use otay liquid Teflon sealer in the tube on both sides of the washer and nut and threads. no leeks.no issues cleaning up no worries about it in the oil or the screen.Just apply, torque to specs and wipe off any xsess.

[andk5591]

Awesome - thanks.....I was figuring Aviation or possibly a small bead of my Permatex right stuff....Was surprised that there is nothing the the manuals about this. You folks rock!
_________________
D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...

[FreeBug]

Curil K-2, not Curil-T

[RWK]

Aviation form-a-gasket, the dark stuff, all they had for a long time, before silicone was all the rage, used/worked on everything on VWs
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[Zundfolge1432]

In fact it goes back to the early 1900s and Barney Oldfield as spokesman. A product that’s been around over 100 years, I’ve used it since the 1970s.

[andk5591]

Since we are discussing sealers.....Cylinders to case....I have had great luck with thin bead of Permatex right stuff at the cylinder base. BUT I have this engine that is using 2 cylinder shims per cylinder....Very concerned that Right stuff is gonna set up too fast dealing with the shims.... Wanting to get this thing back together today...Let me know.
_________________
D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...

[raygreenwood]

I agree on a good quality, high temp...OIL RESISTANT RTV.

So many times I have advocated using RTV in many engine applications....by applying micro-thin, letting it cure and then clamping the parts (intakes, case line etc.). In effect....making a precision gasket with it.

Under head stud washers is one of the places you do NOT want to apply it that way. The reason is that having an actual HARDENED elastic material under the forged washers.....will allow them to load up and lock under initial torque....but over a short period of time the RTV will crush down and release torque.

The proper way with forged head stud washers is to apply thin and wet. In this way the washer will squeeze out any RTV not required to fill low spots and gaps. In most areas the washer will properly load up metal to metal.
Once the nut is torqued....scrupulously wipe up all excess RTV. Ray

[mark tucker]

as I recall locktight rtv used to state do not use on head bolts&threads....ive nevere been able to wipe it up it seems to leave a thin film that comes off lator. it is however great for cylinder shim sealer...if used sparingly...very sparingly. I use the OTAYliquid Teflon/pipesealer with Teflon, as that's what arp told me to use on any head bolts/studs that are wet or have toe ability to leek. that is what they send but in a arp tube.

[slalombuggy]

[Lo Cash John]

Checkout Yamabond 4. I've used it on VW & Subaru builds and It's really good stuff. It should be available at any Yamaha dealership.
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[andk5591]