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Torsion front end question
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sidewinder64
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 12:01 pm    Post subject: Torsion front end question Reply with quote

Has anyone removed one of the torsions from the front end of their sand rail? I'm trying to soften up the front end on my car and was looking at the through rod kit that is available.

My thinking is that since the front beam suspension is designed for a 2,000 lb car and my sand rail is only 1,000 lb, I don't need to have two torsion bars.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 1:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Torsion front end question Reply with quote

Sure, just remove the torsions from the lower tube, leave the top one.

Ball joint or link pin? Link pin you may way to remove the spindles, measure, and re-shim them after removing the torsions. Through rods may pull the arms inwards a bit from where they were clamped via set screw on the torsions. Ball joint you may need to adjust the camber nut...accomplishes the same thing as shimming the link pins. Wink
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sidewinder64
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 1:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Torsion front end question Reply with quote

Vanapplebomb wrote:
Sure, just remove the torsions from the lower tube, leave the top one.

Ball joint or link pin? Link pin you may way to remove the spindles, measure, and re-shim them after removing the torsions. Through rods may pull the arms inwards a bit from where they were clamped via set screw on the torsions. Ball joint you may need to adjust the camber nut...accomplishes the same thing as shimming the link pins. Wink


Thank you for the reply,

It's for a link pin front end. Do you know if there is any benefits in suspension characteristics by removing one of the torsion bars? I have run the stock setup for the last 10 years but was always curious as to why the front ends weren't modified for a lighter application.
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71StandardReduction
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 4:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Torsion front end question Reply with quote

I've actually seen this many times over the years, it is quite common to remove one set of torsions to soften the front end up in rail buggies.
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BFB
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 6:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Torsion front end question Reply with quote

why do you say leave the top? doesn't the lower arms take more abuse / stress and be better to leave those? coil overs are typically mounted to lower arms... now if it were ball joint I could see it being better that the upper arm push down than the lower pulling down and maaaybe stressing the joint.
not saying your wrong just interested in the reasoning for leaving one set vs. the other
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Booky
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 6:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Torsion front end question Reply with quote

I have the same question why do you leave the upper in place?
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 4:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Torsion front end question Reply with quote

Leave the upper ones in place because it is the stronger of the two when the suspension is compressed, both link pin and ball joint, but for different reasons. A good look at the spindles should show you why it is better to use the upper rather than the lower. In the ball joint, it relieves tension from the lower ball joint which is upside down in a bug. Much stronger to compress ball joints than load them in tension. In the link pin, the upward thrust goes straight into the upper link pin and arm. If the lower arm had the torsions, all the thrust would be transferred through the skinny little spindle carrier in order to pull up on the lower link pin and arm. This is a natoriously weak part of the link pin beam. It can be strengthened by welding a gusset over it (which you should do anyways), but using the upper torsion will relieve a lot of the stress in that little bugger.
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