I need help. Carb, distributor problems.

[mukluk]

@sb001: Your method should work, the only snag being not all DVDA distributors have the same vacuum and mechanical advance. A quick check of specs at OldVolks shows a decent amount of variance over just a few years' span. If we knew what part number distributor we were dealing with, it'd be a bit easier to suggest a static setting.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[andk5591]

Testing your vacuum canister is easy...Get a piece of hose that fits on the nipple on the vacuum can. Pop the distributor cap off. Attach the hose to can nipple toward the rear of the car (advance). Suck on the hose and look to see if the plate with the points moves. If it does, block the hose with your tongue and see if it stays put. If it doesnt move at all or goes back as soon as you plug the hole, the advance side is bad.

Do the same thing on the retard side (closest to the distributor). See what happens. A lot of times only the retard side is bad, but the advance side is good. IF either is leaking, then you essentially have a vacuum leak into the carb and it will be running lean. IF only the retard side is bad (keep your fingers crossed), remove the hose from the back (front of the car is front) of the carb and plug the port on the carb. No need to do anything at the distributor.

Now, when it comes to setting the timing, you will ignore the factory specs and set it to max mechanical around 28 to 32 degrees and it should be fine. There are details on how to mark the crank pulley and how to set the timing on here.

None of this need to be real complicated and I just did this a couple months ago on a customer car.
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[cupowater35]

Sorry, you said in your first post that you checked the timing- I took this to mean you had a timing light. How did you check the timing without a light?


The guy I bought it from had a timing light, only found the problem after trying to drive it home.

Am I better off buying a new distributor without vacuum advance? I was playing with it just now and seem to have made it worse.

[cupowater35]

[mukluk]

It appears your distributor is an original German unit. As long as it isn't excessively worn, it will provide better drivability, economy, and reliability than you'll ever see from a new mechanical advance distributor.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[bluebus86]

[bluebus86]

[mukluk]

[cupowater35]

[bluebus86]

one more thing give it a manifold leak test Idle motor, and then squirt flammable cleaner spray on the inlet port areas at head and the two rubber boot couplin's on the intake, and at carb base, etc... if idle speed changes with spray, you got a leak.

You can not tune a carbie correctly with leaks in the manifold.

Good luck, Bug On!
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[Randy in Maine]

If I might offer a suggestion....

That timing light you just bought will be money well spent. Do the 28-32º BTDC (vacuum hoses off and plugged with a golf T) when all of the centrifical advance the distributor has to offer is all in at around 3500 RPMs although the exact number doesn't matter just wind it up until it doesn't advance any more no matter how much more gas you give it. Make that to be the 28-32º BTDC at sea level keeping in mind that the notch on the factory pulley is LIKELY at 5º ATDC. On a beetle I like to start at 30º and bump it up a squeak if needed.

If you feel the need to rebuilt the German distributor, either do it yourself or send it off to one of the guys who know how to do it here. DO NOT BUY A NEW ONE AS IT WILL BE BUNK.

Make sure your heat risers are working right and are getting nice and toasty hot by feeling them with your GLOVED had as it idles in your driveway.

Make sure the idle jet on your fine German 34-PICT 3 carb is squeaky clean. Right side of carb. Big brass nut. Remove and clean with Gum Out spray and compressed air. Put it back on there but DO NOT REEF on the brass nut.

Again if the carb is tired, either you can try to rebuild it or there are guys here on the Samba who can rebuilt a German carb better than new. DON"T BUY A NEW ONE AS THEY ARE ALL BUNK.

Report back your findings.

[vwoldbug]

After you get it running good make sure you check the preheat on the intake manifold and the air cleaner . Also move that fuel filter and put fresh fuel hose and good clamps on the hose .

[cupowater35]

[Randy in Maine]

Always adjust the point dwell gap first. 47º +/- 3º.

Then the timing.

Then the carb.

[mascrappo]

[Maddel]

After a closer look at this pic it seems the carburettor isn't a Solex?

Anyway...

[mukluk]

[Pruneman99]

I'm running that bocar and it's fine. (Now)

For a long time I chased "carb" problems which were actually distributor problems. I rebuilt a German 034 and whatdoyouknow? My carb problems went away..

Pull the distributor and check vertical play in the shaft. It should not move up and down.

[cupowater35]

[bluebus86]