Best way to remove frozen head nuts from 36hp case stud

[fl59bug]

I don't have a torch, so the heat method may not be an option.

Can I split the nuts with a sharp chisel without damaging the studs? About 1/2 the studs on my 36hp engine have the nut frozen to them.

Also, how do I get the nuts on the short inner top head studs torqued down? I ask because the intake manifold studs are sort of in the way and preventing me from getting a socket on the stud/nut. Do I need a really thin wall socket or something?

Thanks for any advice,

Ted

[slalombuggy]

Pull the studs out put them in a small container and soak them in Sea Foam or some other penetrating oil. A 50/50 mix of ATF and Varsol works good too. That might get them off. As far as torqueing the center nuts A 1/4 inch socket, extention and reducer to get around the stud or use a flex socket. Its a case of right tool for the job.

brad

[parker007]

go buy cheap butane torch, that all you need. if you realy pore use mother in laws propane cook stove hahahaah.

[ZENVWDRIVER]

... all great ideas.

I have no ( torch) heat either... the last engine I did, I cut the nuts off with an angle grinder wheel, but not completely the nut, but almost... enough so they broke off with only a little twist f a wrench.

If you're gunna try the penetrating oil method, try using IN FORCE... is the best stuff on the market... is not available at retailers. When I looked it up on line... I got the number of the distributor and he told me a local shop that uses it and I got it from them.... REALLY the best product on the market
_________________
5/50, pastel green 11G - SOLD
8/50, gray 11A Beetle
6/52, pastel green 11C - SOLD
11/4/52, black Zwitter - SOLD to my little bro.
1954 Porsche, pre A, with VW 36 horse- SOLD
1/54, black 11C Beetle - TRADED
2/55 Iceland green Beetle, on a 1965 pan
3/55 113 Beetle, stratos silver
1955 Messerschmitt KR175 - SOLD, sadly
1960 single cab
1962 SO33, with SO 42 interior
9/63 Pacific blue, Ghia
'87 Toyota MR2
'02 WestFORDia E-150, GAVE TO OUR SON

All super-heroes, wear a MASK

[fl59bug]

[fl59bug]

[fl59bug]

I CAREFULLY used my grinder with cut off wheel and cut a notch in each side of each nut on the 6 or so frozen stud/nuts.

With the nut grip on the rusted stud sufficiently weakened, I then used my giant flat blade screwdriver to deliver blows at a 45 degree angle to split the nut off the studs.

Finally, I wire-brushed the threads, soaked the studs in oil, and ran a nut all the way down the threads and back up to verify they are serviceable.

Once I put the heads back on my 36hp engine for the final time before I test fire it, I will have to try the 1/4 drive 15mm socket w/ extension and reducer/ flex socket to get the top center nuts on the head studs tightened. Those pesky intake manifold studs just jam up my full size thick wall 15mm sockets. The top center studs/nuts present no problem on my 40hp engine, but pretty sure that is due to the larger physical size of the 40hp heads which have correspondingly more space between the intake manifold studs and holes on the head.