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GoWesty 2.2L engine
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FarPoint
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Location: Santa Clara
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 5:24 pm    Post subject: GoWesty 2.2L engine Reply with quote

After reviewing different rebuilt engines,we decided to get the GW 2.2 for my 90 Westy. The key differentiators were the high volume oil pump, new forged pistons and ceramic coated crowns among others. All of which are good for dealing with higher engine temperature. For more power I hope to convince my wife later for the RMW tuned exhaust Smile.

TIME FRAME
We installed the engine along with a rebuilt transaxle in about 4 days full time (including the removal of old engine). It took additional 1 week prepping and cleaning reusable parts like exhaust pipes, brackets, ...etc (part-time after work).

PARTS
Ordered two M10 studs for the bell housing (not included with GW engine). We also replaced all exhaust bolts/washers/nuts with stainless steel - so we don't have to grind it off next time.

INSTALLATION
The rear of the van was raised with 2 jackstands.

We first placed the transaxle on a transmission jack with gimbal like bed and strapped it down with chains so it doesn't fall off during tip/tilt adjustment. We then rolled the loaded jack under the van and placed it near the center of the van.

Next, the engine with exhaust and mustache crossbar mounted was placed on a flatbed dolly and rolled under the engine bay and adjacent to the transaxle loaded jack. Cat+muffler not installed yet.

We used a cherry picker to next raise the engine and bolted down the mustache crossbar to the frame of the van. Then with the cherry picker still supporting the front end of the engine, adjusted the straps to slightly angle down the flex plate side of the engine so that it can more easily mate with the transaxle.

With the engine angled down, the transaxle jack was raised, pitched, rolled and yawed and aligned with the flange on the engine - mounted the transaxle to engine.

The rest is pretty straight forward. Important thing is to not rush and replace parts that are easier to replace with engine out like coolant and fuel hoses. As usual refer to Bentley manual for torque values on all bolts and nuts.

SPECIAL TOOLS
Cherry picker, transaxle jack.

DIFFICULTY
This is a 2 person job.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Last edited by FarPoint on Wed Jan 10, 2018 9:15 am; edited 1 time in total
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moosewilis
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 2:25 am    Post subject: Re: GoWesty 2.2L engine Reply with quote

I also installed my GW 2.2 engine. Also swapped to new exhaust, SS coolant line and radiator. I think it took me 3 days to do. It was a fun experence.
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FarPoint
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 7:16 pm    Post subject: Re: GoWesty 2.2L engine Reply with quote

Replaced the 2 relays inside the small black box in the left side of the engine compartment. One of these is for the fuel pump. Some time ago, a fuel pump relay went out in my other car so I figured this would be a good one to replace on my Westy (esp. after >240K miles).

What relay is required, however, for the fuel pump (for 86-91) was not clear at GW website. So instead I went to the VW dealer and had them check their drawings for the part. It showed that the relay part# is:

4HO-951-253-A

and the 2 relays inside the black box have the same part#. They also had these in stock for ~$25 ea.
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FarPoint
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 2:19 pm    Post subject: Re: GoWesty 2.2L engine Reply with quote

For American cars the exhaust bolts are either serrated on a lip or locked into position with an external locking device. The exhaust bolts are torqued down not very much because the pipe will expand with heat and time.

Are there special bolts for the exhaust on the Vanagon?
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dougass
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 2:38 pm    Post subject: Re: GoWesty 2.2L engine Reply with quote

I just re-installed my original engine after replacing rear main seal along with a handful of miscellaneous items while it was all out.

Only difference for me - I chose to join the engine and trans on the ground, had the whole thing supported by (2) $8 dollies from Harbor Freight.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 7:21 pm    Post subject: Re: GoWesty 2.2L engine Reply with quote

I would be interesting to know if a larger oil pump offered any advantage over a stock pump, or if it even caused a loss of oil flow to the bearings. Years ago I had a problem with oil pressure on long trips, in a non VW vehicle. Tried several things to fix the problem but nothing made it better and some things made it worse. I eventually figured out it only happened when I changed to thicker oils when I was putting thousands of miles of straight highway miles on. What was happening is that the relief valve right next to the oil pump was seeing higher pressures and dumping more oil so that by the time the oil reached the oil pressure sending unit at the far end of the lubrication system there was noticeably reduced pressure. The same thing could happen when going to a larger oil pump, high pressure at the relief valve and less flow and pressure down stream.

Unless you have a reason to have more oil flow like having squirters for piston cooling or having a bypass oil filtration system, then sticking with the stock size pump seems to be a reasonable way to go. Definitely willing to listen to others experiences and thoughts.
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FarPoint
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 9:54 pm    Post subject: Re: GoWesty 2.2L engine Reply with quote

High volume oil pumps are important as the engine wears and you have larger clearances in the main, cam bearing, ...etc. The negative is lower gas mileage.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 10:58 pm    Post subject: Re: GoWesty 2.2L engine Reply with quote

FarPoint wrote:
High volume oil pumps are important as the engine wears and you have larger clearances in the main, cam bearing, ...etc. The negative is lower gas mileage.


Put an awful lot of miles on WBXer engines without the bottom end showing any signs of wear, with the one exception of an engine that experienced rod bolt stretch at around 180K miles. Well designed bottom ends don't hardly experience any wear at all on any engines that went into service after PCV became the norm, followed by lead being removed for gasoline, and that followed by carbs giving way to fuel injection. Sure you can kill the bottom end by running it out of oil or letting the engine overheat/underheat for some reason, but bearing wear comes close to not happening any more on most engines.
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 3:58 am    Post subject: Re: GoWesty 2.2L engine Reply with quote

Good job!

Just an FYI, you come to regret using stainkess nuts in the exhaust. Once heated a few cycles they like to stay where they are.

IMHO The brass nuts (originals with the coil inside are best if you can find them) are the nut of choice for exhaust.

On occasion, spanning half a century of wrenching, I've used stainless on exhaust...... they haven't ever put a smile on my face long term.

Dave
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FarPoint
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 9:10 pm    Post subject: Re: GoWesty 2.2L engine Reply with quote

I replaced the coolant with Prestone (for "all makes and models"). It didn't specifically say it's Phosphate free on the label.

This should be fine for Vanagons?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 10:33 pm    Post subject: Re: GoWesty 2.2L engine Reply with quote

FarPoint wrote:
I replaced the coolant with Prestone (for "all makes and models"). It didn't specifically say it's Phosphate free on the label.

This should be fine for Vanagons?


All extended life antifreezes are okay to use, TTBOMK. Best not to mix various types of antifreeze.


Last edited by Wildthings on Sun Feb 25, 2018 12:23 am; edited 1 time in total
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FarPoint
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 11:27 pm    Post subject: Re: GoWesty 2.2L engine Reply with quote

Thanks for confirming!
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wesitarz
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 10:44 am    Post subject: Re: GoWesty 2.2L engine Reply with quote

[quote="djkeev"]Good job!

Just an FYI, you come to regret using stainkess nuts in the exhaust. Once heated a few cycles they like to stay where they are.

IMHO The brass nuts (originals with the coil inside are best if you can find them) are the nut of choice for exhaust.

On occasion, spanning half a century of wrenching, I've used stainless on exhaust...... they haven't ever put a smile on my face long term.

I installed my VW cat to Smallcar header and cat to 911 muffler using stainless nuts and bolts in about 2005. I've removed the muffler a few times over the last two years and the nuts and bolts are fine and reuseable. Maybe because I'm in British Columbia on the coast where there is minimal snow and salt.
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