Help me figure out the hard start issue on my 99 Maxima

[sb001]

First off, 387,000 miles on this thing but runs great:

The 99 Maximas were the first to have an immobilizer built in (something else to go wrong.) A few months back, my immobilizer began failing to recognize the chips in my keys. I could not start the car at all--it would just crank and crank and crank. Before I realized it was the immobilizer, I tried a few things like swapping the fuel pump and the fuel filter, checking the plugs and coil packs, etc. Finally I noticed that the red blinking "Security' light on the dash came on solid red when I turned the key, telling me it was the immobilizer.

Towed to the dealership and they said my ECM and immbolizer unit both needed to be replaced to the tune of $2200. Obviously the car isn't worth that so I towed it home. Called a locksmith who works on cars to see if he could reprogram my keys, and he said he was familiar with this problem with Nissans and could fix it. Came up to my house and plugged some sort of diagnostic laptop computer into my car, fiddled around, then rechipped my keys. Tried them in the car and it started (after some hesitation.) Total cost $250.

However ever since this happened, my car has had real problems just starting. Once started it's absolutely fine and runs like a top. But almost every time I turn the key to start the car, it cranks, and cranks, and cranks, sometimes it stops cranking and everything electrical goes out and then comes right back, cranks some more, sometimes there's a sort of a banging up front, and then it finally starts. Or very VERY occasionally, it starts pretty much just like it's supposed to. Is this an ECM issue since it wasn't actually replaced? If so, can I just go to the salvage yard and grab another ECM out of another 99 Maxima and reset it somehow to make it work in my car? (Careful- I'll hold you to your word so I need complete 100% positivity on this.)

Thanks in advance
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I'm the humblest guy on this board.

1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor

[TDCTDI]

At 387,000 miles, it doesn’t owe you a damned thing. There are tuners for VW that can delete the IMMO function in the ECM, find a Nissan tuner & see if this is feasible with your car.
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Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[skills@eurocarsplus]

if the cluster is dropping out, you may have a ground issue.

as I recall, there is a ground 'cluster' somewhere on the engine that needs to be clean...I want to say it was by a water outlet...but don't know

and anything with immo can't just be swapped and work. sometimes you need to reprogram it, other times you must have a virgin module and program that.
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[scubaseas]

Check the wiring harness at the rear valve cover. There are several TSBs on this. Also try swapping out the ECM relay. Check the grounds for the ECM wiring most of which are at the thermostat housing and the back of the intake/plenum chamber. Your cluster dropping out is telling.

Try unplugging the AIC when it doesn't start. The AIC can short and take down the signal to the ECU. This was very common on the Pathfinders

Have you checked for codes on the ECU via the self diagnostic flashing light?

Put a scanner on it (use the Nissan plug) or read what the ECT is when you have the no start. ECT can give you some of these symptoms.

When it cranks but doesn't start do you have injection pulse?, spark?

After the new keys were programmed does the security light still flash when there is a no start issue?

To my knowledge you can not reprogram the immo on a used ECU but you may want to ask an ECU rebuilder.
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Al

08/1970 T2a Westphalia owned since 1980

ASE Master certification. 50 years pushing a wrench
Retired