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VW_Jimbo 
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Joined: May 22, 2016
Posts: 9955
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
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 Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 10:40 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| sb001 wrote: |
What exactly are you lubricating when you put a few drops of oil on the distributor shaft wick under the rotor?
Since the points cam is lubed with distributor grease, what is the wick oil for?
I'm asking because I forgot to do that after re-shimming my distributor a couple weeks ago, and I'm wondering if that's the cause of the squeaky "chirping" sound my distributor is still making (it was doing that before the re-shim as well.) |
The mechanical advance plate pivot, inside the shaft. What is commonly refered to as centrfical force. There are two weights (well sometimes one) down under the points plate area. Those weights increase the advance curve. That oil lubricates that pivot point. Without the oil, the shaft locks together and then you get no advance from rpms. You know, that is way harder to type out, without a picture. I need a diagram of a distributor!!! Anyone have a cut away?
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Jimbo
There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!
| TDCTDI wrote: |
| Basically, a whole bunch of fuckery to achieve a look. |
| 67rustavenger wrote: |
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!  |
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Maddel
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Joined: February 12, 2013
Posts: 935
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| Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 10:56 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| VW_Jimbo wrote: |
| The mechanical advance plate pivot, inside the shaft. What is commonly refered to as centrfical force. There are two weights (well sometimes one) down under the points plate area. Those weights increase the advance curve. That oil lubricates that pivot point. Without the oil, the shaft locks together and then you get no advance from rpms. You know, that is way harder to type out, without a picture. I need a diagram of a distributor!!! Anyone have a cut away? |
Pics taken from bnam's gallery...
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jwp67
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Joined: February 12, 2012
Posts: 655
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| Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 6:53 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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..
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21 million of these cars were built,and everyone of them were sold...kinda astounding given how unreliable they are.---johhnypan
Last edited by jwp67 on Mon May 07, 2018 4:17 am; edited 1 time in total |
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sb001
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Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 10406
Location: NW Arkansas
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| Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 7:58 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Thanks- is that the source of my chirping sound (I need to take a video of that) or is it a bearing of some sort? When I reshimmed the distributor I simply pulled the whole shaft out with the advance weights still intact- didn't figure there was any need to go as far as disassembling the whole thing. After reassembly I rotated the shaft by hand several times and the chirping seemed to be gone. Now it's BAAAACCCKK.... 
One other thing too- when checking timing now, it is spot on and doesn't jump around like it did before (due to the vertical play in the distributor with the shims missing.) BUT, when I was checking timing, the strobe light cut out here and there for a split second accompanied by a slight pop like a misfire. Bad wire? Bad plug? Bad condenser? WTH??
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I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
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awreed
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Joined: January 14, 2010
Posts: 1268
Location: Kirkland, WA
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| Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 1:15 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Ok, so tie rod ends.
Two of my new tie rod end studs have holes to accommodate cotter pins, which means castle nuts. The other two have no holes. Should I use locking nuts with the nylon insert, or regular nuts with lock washers? Or warp washers? Or stop nuts with lock/warp washers? And should I put lock washers on the castellated nuts as well?
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VW_Jimbo
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Joined: May 22, 2016
Posts: 9955
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
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| Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 1:39 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| awreed wrote: |
Ok, so tie rod ends.
Two of my new tie rod end studs have holes to accommodate cotter pins, which means castle nuts. The other two have no holes. Should I use locking nuts with the nylon insert, or regular nuts with lock washers? Or warp washers? Or stop nuts with lock/warp washers? And should I put lock washers on the castellated nuts as well?
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You need to delete your post in this thread and repost in the Late Model/Super 1968-up Forum as a NEW thread.
_________________
Jimbo
There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!
| TDCTDI wrote: |
| Basically, a whole bunch of fuckery to achieve a look. |
| 67rustavenger wrote: |
| GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! |
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awreed
Samba Member
Joined: January 14, 2010
Posts: 1268
Location: Kirkland, WA
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| Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 2:09 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| VW_Jimbo wrote: |
You need to delete your post in this thread and repost in the Late Model/Super 1968-up Forum as a NEW thread. |
I posted this here because I thought it might be a stupid question. I really have no idea what to do here. |
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EVfun
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Joined: April 01, 2012
Posts: 5475
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 3:06 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| awreed wrote: |
| VW_Jimbo wrote: |
You need to delete your post in this thread and repost in the Late Model/Super 1968-up Forum as a NEW thread. |
I posted this here because I thought it might be a stupid question. I really have no idea what to do here. |
Nylon lock nuts instead of castle nuts and a cotter pin is pretty common now. I don't think the question really has a correct forum as it effects most years.
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| As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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VW_Jimbo
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Joined: May 22, 2016
Posts: 9955
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
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| Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 3:11 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| awreed wrote: |
| VW_Jimbo wrote: |
You need to delete your post in this thread and repost in the Late Model/Super 1968-up Forum as a NEW thread. |
I posted this here because I thought it might be a stupid question. I really have no idea what to do here. |
Its not a stupid question and I believe most on here would enjoy the information on it.
Regardless,
| awreed wrote: |
| Ok, so tie rod ends. Two of my new tie rod end studs have holes to accommodate cotter pins, which means castle nuts. The other two have no holes. Should I use locking nuts with the nylon insert, or regular nuts with lock washers? Or warp washers? Or stop nuts with lock/warp washers? And should I put lock washers on the castellated nuts as well? |
The new tierod ends that you mention should come with new nuts. I am surprised the manufacturer did not include new nuts.
You should use the castle nuts on those tie rod ends (TRE) that have cotter pin holes, with cotter pins, no washers.
On the TRE without holes, you need either nylon lock nuts meeting manufacturer specs. They also had a triangular hole on some of the nuts for this application. The need for washers is not required. I have never seen one installed under the nuts at the TREs, through the years. No lock washers either.
Hope that helps you out!
_________________
Jimbo
There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!
| TDCTDI wrote: |
| Basically, a whole bunch of fuckery to achieve a look. |
| 67rustavenger wrote: |
| GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! |
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awreed
Samba Member
Joined: January 14, 2010
Posts: 1268
Location: Kirkland, WA
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| Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 3:52 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Just curious, but what is the reason for not using washers under the castle nuts or the nylon nuts? |
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VW_Jimbo
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Joined: May 22, 2016
Posts: 9955
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
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| Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 4:03 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| awreed wrote: |
| Just curious, but what is the reason for not using washers under the castle nuts or the nylon nuts? |
I do not know for sure. I can only speculate from experience.
That is one to ask the engineers that compress all those material numbers into stress point loads and shear points. I am sure there is a bean counter in that mix as well.
My take would be something about the taper of the shaft of the TRE and it seating into its appropriate position, unencumbered by a washer. Plus its another thread or two that the nuts has to spin off before totally letting go. You as the driver may feel it and take it in to get fixed, before it hurts someone.
Edit: You know, they do use a washer at the balljoints! It has to be the tapered rod on the TREs. Excellent question!
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Jimbo
There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!
| TDCTDI wrote: |
| Basically, a whole bunch of fuckery to achieve a look. |
| 67rustavenger wrote: |
| GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! |
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mukluk
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Joined: October 18, 2012
Posts: 7023
Location: Clyde, TX
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| Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 4:06 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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The nylock nut installed as shown has a very good chance of coming loose. In order for the locking feature to work correctly, you need to have the threads of the fastener/stud it's on protrude all the way through the nylon portion -- preferably with at least a thread and a half protruding past the end of the nut. If you can't turn the nylock nut down onto the rod end stud enough for threads to go all the way through the nut, then it's the incorrect one to use in this application and should be replaced with a thinner one.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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awreed
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Joined: January 14, 2010
Posts: 1268
Location: Kirkland, WA
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| Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 6:35 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| mukluk wrote: |
The nylock nut installed as shown has a very good chance of coming loose. In order for the locking feature to work correctly, you need to have the threads of the fastener/stud it's on protrude all the way through the nylon portion -- preferably with at least a thread and a half protruding past the end of the nut. If you can't turn the nylock nut down onto the rod end stud enough for threads to go all the way through the nut, then it's the incorrect one to use in this application and should be replaced with a thinner one. |
This was exactly my other unspoken concern as well. I was planning on heading over to Tacoma screw to get a different nylock nut.
This car will not be on the road until I am absolutely positive that it's 100% safe. |
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Ron G
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Joined: September 05, 2013
Posts: 228
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 7:27 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| you can buy a 1/2 nyloc nut that will work perfect, it is half the thickness. It sure is unusual that you would have a castle nut on one side and a nylock on the other hmmmm. but a 1/2 nut will fix that. |
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MERKURmeow
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Joined: December 19, 2017
Posts: 45
Location: SF Bay area
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| Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 5:03 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I saw some ominous looking bubbles emanating from the base of #2 cylinder. Re torque the heads or am I screwed? I was just about to start daily driving this for work...
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Ron G
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Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 8:22 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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All you guys out there that’s done electrical stupid question here,
I got a 71 super and I cannot get a wire from the backseat relay to the rear defrost, So my question is if I bring a big enough wire can I run from the defrost hole through the upper channel down to the trunk area down through the dash and run the wire along the channel where the rest of the wires are to the relay, Would that be a problem? if I ran a big enough wire I should be ok I think. |
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VW_Jimbo
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Joined: May 22, 2016
Posts: 9955
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 9:15 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Ron G wrote: |
All you guys out there that’s done electrical stupid question here,
I got a 71 super and I cannot get a wire from the backseat relay to the rear defrost, So my question is if I bring a big enough wire can I run from the defrost hole through the upper channel down to the trunk area down through the dash and run the wire along the channel where the rest of the wires are to the relay, Would that be a problem? if I ran a big enough wire I should be ok I think. |
I think you would be fine. I would increase the gauge by 1. Copper does not drop much voltage along a continuous wire. The voltage drops typically happen at the connectors along the way of the electrons. If you can, use connectors only at both ends. Do not cut and splice together the wire anywhere.
You cant get the wire to the rear window area by going through the rear side panels? You can use fishing line and a vacuum to fish wire through panels. As long as there is a semi clear path and not too many air leaks. We run fishing string through steel emt with a shop vac, then tape a wire fish onto the string, pull the fish over and tape on the wires. Then pull the wires. Have done a few hundred feet on a single run of four #2 wires.
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Jimbo
There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!
| TDCTDI wrote: |
| Basically, a whole bunch of fuckery to achieve a look. |
| 67rustavenger wrote: |
| GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! |
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Ron G
Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2013
Posts: 228
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 10:23 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| I thought I would be able to if I run a bigger gauge wire, No there’s no way I tried for a couple hours and couldn’t get close, way too much foam. I was able to get the main harness there but I couldn’t go to the defrost there’s no way, so I thought this would be the easiest, thanks for the reply |
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Ron G
Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2013
Posts: 228
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 10:28 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Last edited by Ron G on Fri Mar 16, 2018 6:43 am; edited 2 times in total |
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vamram
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Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 7300
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 6:37 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Might be a good time to clean out the death foam.
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'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
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