Broken engine stud.

[FloridaRunner]

One of the two bottom studs that bolt my 1600 engine to the trani is broken flush with the engine. What is the best way to get the old one out and a new one in? Is it threaded in the engine end or what? Is it possible to use a screw/bolt extractor or something similar and where can I get a new one? Any help would be appreciated.

[Danwvw]

Well, probably it would just break off a stud remover. They do un-screw. I would just drill it out and re-tap it. Those are 10mm I think. It would be a lot easier with the engine out. The case holes for the lower studs are blind and the studs thread in about 3/4". Maybe- wait till the engine needs to come out for some other reason. I would not be popping the clutch in the meantime!
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[SGKent]

I would only do this with the engine out. If the case is apart do it on a drill press. File a small spot on the center of the stud if any protrudes. Punch the center with a center punch. With maybe a 1/8" high carbon or titanium coated drill bit drill slowly thru the center of the stud SLOWLY, keep oil on the bit to keep it cool. Try to keep it centered best you can. Probably you will feel the bit begin to pass out of the steel as you pass thru the bit. Stop. Inspect the hole to see how centered it was. Use the next size drill to enlarge that hole. Then the next. Just before you drill into any threads, stop and gently try an easy out or extractor. DO NOT turn so hard you break the extractor tool off or you will really be down the creek. Usually at this point the remnants of the stud will come out. I'd put some penetrating oil on it as well to see if that helps but the interaction between a steel stud and aluminum is not as affected by penetrating oil as steel on steel.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Wildthings]

I would start by hitting it day after day with a quality penetrant. Depending on how much of the stud is sticking out of the engine, you might be able to pull the engine back enough to get vice grips on the remainder of the stud and turn it out. If that will not work then you will have to remove the engine and drill as others have suggested. It is big enough so that you can use a fairly hefty easy out so I would suspect it will come out. If you drill all the way through the length of the stud you will be able to get penetrant to the back side of the stud as well.

If it is broken off flush or slightly proud, you could have someone weld a nut on it for you which would give you something to grab at with your vice grips.

[SGKent]

[FloridaRunner]

Thanks for all the information. The engine is out so that will make it easier. Since it broke off flush with the engine I think I'll start with a center punch to make a small indentation and use a small drill, maybe 1/8", and work my way up from there. I did get a stand because I have a lot of work to do and bending over to work on the engine on the floor didn't sound like too much fun especially for my back. I'll just take it slow and use a lot of penetrating oil and I'll eventually get it out I hope. I was hoping I could use an extractor but I'm glad I didn't because of the possibility of breaking it off. That would have been a bummer... Thanks again to everyone. Ed

[SGKent]

[Busstom]

[lil-jinx]

And don't break off your drill bit,it may fetch up as you go thru the bottom of the stud.Good luck.
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[bsairhead]

Left hand drill bits and extractors are available at your local auto parts store.

[Danwvw]

Those lower motor studs can be really tight. I have taken a few good ones out. If the case is holding them the way it should you're going to need 40 or 50-foot lbs to start one turning.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[Wildthings]

Work your hole up to the largest size you can and then take a pencil torch (oxy-propane or oxy-act) and heat the piece as hot as you can. With luck it will screw right out once it cools.

[FloridaRunner]

After applying generous amounts of penetrating oil to the end of the broken stud for over a week I came up with a new idea which I just tried. I took my Dremel and used an old reinforced cutting wheel about the size of a dime and cut a slot in the broken end of the stud. Since it was flush with the surface I got a little outside the hole. I used a screwdriver with a blade about the same size as the diameter of the stud and tried to turn it but it didn't budge. On the second try I pushed in hard and got a firm grip on the screwdriver and dog gone, it started to turn. After a few turns it was lose enough to take it the rest of the way out by hand. It was clear that the penetrating oil had gotten all the way down to the other end so it was fully lubricated. I'll attach a picture of the part of the stud I got out. (sorry, can't get photo to up load. I'll keep trying.)

[SGKent]

good job, I'll bet you are glad that is over.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[FloridaRunner]

Yes, I an glad that is done. I don't know how I thought of that solution. I'm sure it is not original. I hope my post helps others with the same or similar problem.

[SGKent]

[my59]

I use left hand bits for all the drilling chores of busted stud removal. If you get it center punched accuratly, and maintain center, you cab gradually work up the drill size and the remains will unscrew.
Plenty of pb blaster helps.
If you get it right, you may not even need to chase the threads...
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[orwell84]

Nice one! Breaking off a stud like that means it's time to clean up the shop, have a beer before brute force and ignorance take over. I've done the screwdriver slot thing but never on a stud broken off flush.