Eurovan refrigerator upgrade

[flick1]

I am in the process of upgrading the Norcold 3 way 3163LGHB refrigerator with a more efficient refrigerator. The Norcold works OK on propane and 110AC but the 12VDC cooling is very problematic. The 12VDC cooling is an 11 AMP heater which drains the battery in less than an hour and it is a direct drive model without thermostat. It is old technology and needs to be replaced. The 12VDC heater died and the replacement is over $100. I cant see spending a hundred bucks on something that doesnt work well to begin with and then drains your battery in a hurry.
Iam considering an Engel SB70F !2VDC front open 60qt to replace the Norcold. I was also looking at a Nova Kool R2600 12VDC but getting it shipped to me is proving costly. The Engel sounds like a better refer except that I have heard some unfavorable reviews about the Engel compressor making a buzzing noise. I called up an Engel supplier and he said that he has installed many Engels in sailboats without any complaint. Please send me some of your thoughts.

[TKentT]

I'm replacing the Norcold 3163 in my EV-based Winnebago Rialta. Seeing all the good feedback here on the Truckfridge, I ordered a TF65 from Karl at WestyVentures last week. It arrived today, but the invoice stated "Free upgrade to TF-62 at no additional charge. TF62 - Truckfridge 2.2 cu ft refrigerator/large freezer, 12vDC. Black door panel, trim with black mounting flange and sliding door lock. Made in Italy."

It doesn't look exactly the same as the TF-65 on their site. The door swings left (though it can be changed) and the sliding latch appears a bit different. Rather than a relabeled Indel Webasto fridge, I believe this TF62 is a relabeled Vitrifrigo C62 IPF marine fridge.

http://www.caravanfridges.co.uk/vitrifrigo/c62i.htm

The data plate reads:

Model - TF62P
Volume - 2.2 cu ft
Class - N
Compressor - Danfoss BD36F
Input Volts - 12-24 VDC
Power - 42w
Input Current - 3.6/1.8A
Refrigerant - R134A
Charge - O.143 lbs

First impression is very good - higher build quality than the old Norcold. I won't be installing it for a few days since I have to yank the old one a do some cabinetry work - I'll be gaining cabinet space with essentially the same size fridge...
_________________
1952 MG TD Replica, 69 VW IRS pan, 1679cc with 40 HPMXs -- Most fun for the money out there...

1986 Doka Transporter, 14" Syncro w/dual lockers -- 60,000km Swedish firetruck...
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=682322

30+ VWs before them...

[tds3pete]

http://xochi.com/evc/vitrifrigo-c60i/

Here's a great article on replacing it with a Vitrifrigo which is a popular conversion.
_________________
'58 Westy camper-come and gone
'73 Westy-bought new in Holland,now gone
'86 Syncro weekender-come and gone
'79 Westy...Oscar
'95 Eurovan Camper/5 spd...Marsha Mellow

[TKentT]

[DenverB]

interested to see feedback on this one. Our norcold fridges are all a PITA, though i've managed to rebuild every one of them to working order.I will say that draining your battery in an hour seems exessively fast. What size coach battery are you using? Mine takes about 6 hours to completely kill if the car isn't on, though frankly it shouldn't ever be used for that long without the car running and charging the coach battery to offset the draw. I tell renters that three hours is the max I would EVER leave it on DC battery and even then only if you're driving a little after said stop to recharge.

According to the manual from Winnebago the DC should be used as a "maintain" function between camp stops-- otherwise they say it should be used on 110 or propane to actually cool the fridge.

Either way, like you I would love a more efficient one that I could leave on DC for an extended period of time (though I suspect that will mean adding a solar array).

*edit: I'm using a group size 27dc coach battery
_________________
-------
'77 Transporter/camper (Bussy - Reef Blue/Pastel White)
'67 bug (Santos - VW Blue)
'84 Vanagon Westfalia (Pink Flamingo - Pastel White/Pink)
'88 Vanagon GL Westfalia (Frankie Says - Wolfram Gray)
'02 Eurovan Weekender (Green Apple)
'95-'03 Eurovan full campers and weekenders (rental fleet)
'84 -'91 Vanagon full campers and weekenders (rental fleet)
'72 Porsche 914 (Greta - RIP)

www.RockyMountainCampervans.com

[jshdcooper]

Hi All,

First post and a total noob.

We bought our 95 EVC from a friend a few months ago for weekend and trips and because also planned on doing a 4 month road trip for our honeymoon in November.

I've got a list of projects I want to tackle before the big trip, one of them being to replace the fridge. Based on what I've been reading, I'm leaning towards the tf 49. It's possible that we may go several days without moving the van. Any idea how long can I expect to run the fridge without charging the battery or if Solar is a reasonable option to help keep it charged while we're stationary?

Thanks for the help, like I said, I'm a complete noobie, so excuse the question if it's stupid!

Thanks!

[TKentT]

With two 75ah (or larger) batteries and a 100w panel, you should be able to keep a 12v compressor fridge going almost indefinitely, if you're not totally socked in with clouds.. I'm considering a Renogy suitcase solar panel for the versatility it provides.

I'll be using a pair of group 31 AGM batteries with 105ah (I think - they're 800cca with 200 minute reseve) each. Remember that you don't want to routinely discharge the battery below 50%, so you actually need two to use the rated power of one, whichever size you use. For charging and longevity you want both to be the same age and size, else the older/weaker battery will cause the other one to be overcharged.
_________________
1952 MG TD Replica, 69 VW IRS pan, 1679cc with 40 HPMXs -- Most fun for the money out there...

1986 Doka Transporter, 14" Syncro w/dual lockers -- 60,000km Swedish firetruck...
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=682322

30+ VWs before them...

[westyventures]

[westyventures]

[TKentT]

Just added three pics of my completed install. I'm definitely not a cabinet maker, and my Brad nailer crapped out on me, requiring me to use wood screws. I have enough finished wood to re-do the the front of the shelves, after I pick up another finish nailer. (Those in the toekick will remain , since the allow me disassembling the supporting frame.) Overall, it's quite functional, I'm quite satisfied and literally a happy camper. Thanks Karl!

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=1390265

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=1390264

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=1390263
_________________
1952 MG TD Replica, 69 VW IRS pan, 1679cc with 40 HPMXs -- Most fun for the money out there...

1986 Doka Transporter, 14" Syncro w/dual lockers -- 60,000km Swedish firetruck...
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=682322

30+ VWs before them...

[dixoncj]

Does anyone know if there's a replacement fridge for the EV Winnebago that fits into the exact space of the stock unit a la the TF49?
THX

[westyventures]

[dixoncj]

[e&m_ghia]

[chrisvolk]

Seeking anyone who has replaced the stock Norcold in a EV Camper with a Truckfridge 65 AC/DC. I've heard that this works, but I have yet to actually identify a human that has made the switch.

[whizzif]

I am replacing the NORCOLD with the TF65 that I got from Karl and WestyVentures. Super knowledgeable and helpful. Pulled the old fridge out, not too hard. I'm actually chipping away at the install. Reading the install instructions, I'm trying to make sure I have good ventilation. Maybe a shim on the bottom? I'm a total noob when it comes to mounting/cabinetry, etc. It'll be a bit of an adventure but hopefully will get it installed. Looking at a 100W flexible panel on the roof. I think I'm just going to mount that with heavy duty 3M tape (like car logos are taped with) - anyone us that? I've read a lot on panels. Flex is good because you don't have to drill but framed is better for heat dissipation. Hopefully the flex panels work. Hiring a plumber to cut the tube that was going to the fridge and cap it. Other than that the fridge install is done! Pretty easy!

[Triumph]

I've just completed a swap of the Norcold for the TruckFridge TF65 AC/DC.

Removal of the old fridge was pretty standard. Turn off the gas supply at the tank and be sure you’re well ventilated, as some gas will leak. I decided to remove the gas pipe for the fridge to clean up and free additional room for the installation. I went below to the regulator and capped it off using a new brass cap and gas pipe dope. I filled the old pipe hole with the instant insulation foam that come in a can. This will keep out the bugs and water.

For the installation, I needed to place the fridge 3” up from the floor. I purchased some 3” cabinet trim from Home Depot and built a pedestal then braced it to the floor. The pedestal width fits just inside the feet of the fridge. I used the 3” material on the sides and standard 1”x2” on the front and back. This provides air flow for venting and clearance for the remaining gas piping.

Notice the original wiring on the left and right. This wiring will be relocated to provide clearance for the cabinet on the left and ensure the wiring is out of harm’s way.

As the fridge’s frame screws in on the left & right, I needed to frame in the fridge’s place using 1”x2” pieces on either side. The right frame is attached to the existing metal frame by screws from behind. The fridge’s frame will wrap around the 1”x2” so I added a washer for the proper spacing, then clamped, drilled & screwed it in. The washer is removed afterwards since it’s only needed to space the frame for attachment.

The left frame is anchored to the floor and upper rail using L brackets. The upper L uses flush mount Phillip’s machine screw with a nyloc nut to provide clearance and ensure it doesn’t vibrate loose. I added a cross brace for stability.

The left and right frames have relief cuts to allow the frame to sit flush and tight. In this picture, you can also see how the fridge frame wraps around (see above on spacing of the right side frame).

With the frame in place, it was time to test fit the fridge. I made a few adjustments but all in all it fit in quite nicely. I also checked the rear for clearance of both the gas piping and ventilation space.
Next was cleaning up and relocating the wiring. I put wire cover on the left side wiring then attached it to the rear of the cabinet then up and over to the front panel. This freed up the floor space on the left for the shelf. Did the same on the right.

At the back of the opening, I relocated the 120v plug to allow the fridge to be better placed in the opening.

Next up was to seal off the old fridge vents. My bus had the high altitude kit which meant I had two holes to cap. I cut two discs from a piece of sheet aluminum (I don’t remember the gauge). A liberal dose of caulk made sure the screws coming through had plenty of sealant.

I placed the aluminum discs between the rubber gasket and the original metal disc so that the clamping would be more secure.

I also clamped the gas pipe running to the heater to the lower screw to keep it firm.

Everything (except the right frame) is in place and ready for installation. Notice the relocated 120v plug; from facing out to facing up. The 12v plug is hanging down ready to plugging in.

The fridge is installed and you can see the space on the left for the slide out cabinet. This area is about 5 ¼”. Rev-A-Shelf makes a variety of cabinet parts. I found a slide out shelf that fits nicely in this space. The part# is RV-448-HP-523C. It’s about 11” deep and while I wish it was a few inches deeper, this shelf is just what you need. The shelf is designed to have your cabinet face attached to it. In my case, I had a piece of 1” thick hardware that I used to make the fascia board. There was a little manufacturing issue with the lower slide rails (they protruded too far when closed) to I used my router to remove about ¼” of the lower back of the fascia board to ensure it would fully close and engage the little catch when closed.

The Rev-A-Shelf itself is very easy to install, you release the slide catches to remove the slide out shelf from the base. Align and screw the base into the floor. Slide the shelf back onto the rails (I did pull the fridge out for the installation, btw).

Attaching the fascia board is easy as the screws come through the slide out shelf and into your fascia board holding it in place.
Here’s the final installation of the slide out. I added a child proof catch at the top to ensure the shelf won’t come out when fully loaded and the bus is being driven “robustly”.

The shelves are adjustable and I actually removed one of them to get additional height for the other shelves. A can of soup is in the lower shelf for reference.

(Disclaimer: I am not sponsored by Progresso)
Many thanks to Karl Mullendore at Westy Ventures for his advice on the Truckfridge. I place the order with Karl and the fridge arrived two days later!

[paulvh]

Dear Triumph,

thank you so much for your detailed post. I installed the same fridge and the extra shelf in our 1995 Eurovan and it looks fabulous.
I also added a solar panel and switch to disconnect the marine battery when not in use.

Paul

[Triumph]

So glad it helped Paul. That looks like one happy pup! btw, i debated a solar panel... I like how you did that, what make & size did you install?

[paulvh]

Hi Triumph,

I got the 120W foldable solar panel from Acopower
https://www.acopower.com/collections/foldable-solar-kits/products/hy-ltk-3x40wpx20a

An extension cord will allow you to place the panel in any sunny spot at the campground.

The panel is connected to the marine battery.

The battery switch will disconnect the marine battery from the car circuit, but the solar panel will keep charging the battery. I installed this because something in the car seems to be draining my battery overtime when I am not using it.