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EVC Furnace Replacement
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twinsben
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Joined: March 01, 2017
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Location: Bend, Oregon
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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 11:10 pm    Post subject: EVC Furnace Replacement Reply with quote

Has anyone replaced their furnace? We have a 1995 EVC. We are having problems with our Suburban NT-12S. I have decided it is better to replace the whole furnace as everything is 22 years old. I purchased a Suburban NT-16SQ. Hopefully it arrives soon. I imagine the install will be pretty straight forward.

Any thoughts or advice?
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HerbieDave
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Location: Ventura
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PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2017 10:11 am    Post subject: Re: EVC Furnace Replacement Reply with quote

turn off your propane
Slide the rear seat all the way forward and out of the tracks
take off the side panel
disconnect the electrical, gas line and air duct
remove the 4 screws that hold the front cover of the furnace on
remove the 2 bolts in the lower front that bolt the furnace down
Slide it out.
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tds3pete
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PostPosted: Sun May 21, 2017 3:31 pm    Post subject: Re: EVC Furnace Replacement Reply with quote

While you have it out, I would suggest replacing all left rear tail light bulbs..

It's easy while it's out and a total pita otherwise.
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Last edited by tds3pete on Mon May 22, 2017 9:53 am; edited 1 time in total
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Abscate
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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 9:10 am    Post subject: Re: EVC Furnace Replacement Reply with quote

You will need to leak test the propane connections after install to ensure its safe.
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twinsben
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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 7:24 pm    Post subject: Re: EVC Furnace Replacement Reply with quote

The install took less than an hour including wiring in the original male electrical plug. The furnace was only $399 new from a third party seller on Amazon. If you are considering a replacement just do it. Cheers.
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twinsben
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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 7:26 pm    Post subject: Re: EVC Furnace Replacement Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
You will need to leak test the propane connections after install to ensure its safe.


Thanks! Soapy water always does the trick.
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sdunn35
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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 9:20 am    Post subject: Re: EVC Furnace Replacement Reply with quote

@twinsben I'm curious if you think the fan on the new furnace is any quieter than the original. That's my only complaint really - makes it harder to sleep downstairs when it is cold enough to need the furnace.
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twinsben
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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 1:57 pm    Post subject: Re: EVC Furnace Replacement Reply with quote

Yes. The fan is quieter. The old fan had a low pitch hum. This fan is super quiet. You still here the air flow though.
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springsvan
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2018 7:48 pm    Post subject: Re: EVC Furnace Replacement Reply with quote

Has anyone had difficulty getting the gas line compression nut loose? Have a 2000 EVC , doing a converter/battery upgrade and the nut connected to the copper line just outside the furnace housing is really stuck on there. I'm clearly the first person to open the panels up. Any tips for getting it loose? I don't want to bend that copper line. Thanks
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alexkistler
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Joined: January 17, 2019
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Location: Olympia, WA
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 7:53 pm    Post subject: Re: EVC Furnace Replacement Reply with quote

Use two wrenches. One inside the heater and the other on the flare nut.
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gjjens
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2019 4:58 pm    Post subject: Re: EVC Furnace Replacement Reply with quote

So, I ditched my NT12S on my 1995 EVC about 4 yrs ago. I replaced it with a NT 16SQ. I had an RV dealer , who was certified in Suburban repair and replacement install the new furnace. No Way I'd do it myself when I think about a furnace that needs to vent properly out the side. Than must have the gas line hooked up properly and checked for any gas leakage before use. That's just me. After the furnace was installed, I started having problems where the blower would come on and after 3 cycles, shut off. (using coach battery) After spending $ on new batteries, and control board, lp regulator, etc, I found a repairman who claimed that he could make that furnace hum all the way down to 10.5 v. The VW furnace is only vented to the right side as you look in at it. The sail switch is unfortunately on the left side. The left side has a knockout for additional heating duct but there is no room to add a duct. So, he removed the knockout on the left side, and that gave more air flow so the sail switch would stay on when the air from blower went over it. Only problem is that it is probably not great blowing some hot air into your compartment down there. I always get the sail switch to turn on correctly under shore power, just not with the battery. Again, the battery was fine. Now the furnace starts up all the time. I have a couple holes drilled in the knockout so that some of the air generated by the blower can flow more freely in the unit. If you can't get that air out, the air let out by the blower will hit the front of the unit and create resistance ultimately against the sail switch. Does this sound correct? I can't argue with the fact that he got my furnace to start every time.
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