Long time admirer, first time owner - Attempting to start T3

[Paulbeard]

What's that extra vent in front of the fridge flue? I think I have seen them on Bay westies…
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Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs

[Somethin2do]

Haha, yeah bumper stickers were a bonus for buying the Van. I received the Van today and feeling like I bit off a far more then I can chew! Let's start with what I looked at this evening.

1) Still wondering about that red wire from the coil? So am I, see the "Follow the red wire" video:


Link


2) Definitely need some grease here! This is the shifter..


Link


3) Fuel tank definitely will need replacing. The kits I am seeing on gowesty are for 1983 +. Anyone know of a good fuel tank + fuel line kits available for air-cooled vanagons? And yes, that is rust in the fuel!

4) There was no battery in the van when I received it and my local Walmart, O'reilly and auto zone do not carry group 41 batteries. I ordered one and will be picking it up tomorrow from O'reilly. I am ready for compression testing.. assuming electrical is working and engine turns over.

Wish me luck!

Jeremy

[Zeitgeist 13]

Do yourself a favor and buy a late model filler neck and then install the newer style tank. The early filler necks are hard to find parts for and are a major PITA to fiddle with when R&Ring.

This is what you need: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2147642

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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Somethin2do]

Whelp, good news is that the engine turns over, bad news is the compression results:

1) 120
2) 120
3) 30 (Yikes)
4) 80

I did not do a wet test to see how the 30 and 80 change yet, but will plan to do that this evening.

Wet Test Update:

3) 60
4) 95

[calo1956]

Thats a nice westy, and at a great price. I also have a 1980, with a fresh rebuild, and theres plenty of things to to keep you occupied in that engine compartment! Hopefully getting spark should be the easiest to tackle. I got my gas tank from The Bus Depot, there a great source for early Vanagon parts. As someone else mentioned, I would replace every piece of rubber fuel line, and use the proper german fuel line, also available from the BD. Good luck!

[Somethin2do]

Thanks, i will be ordering a new fuel tank soon. My priority just shifted to getting the engine running first. Did a leak down test and feel air coming from oil fill area. When I cover the oil fill, i hear the air through the intake.

Question: if air is leaking into oil fill, this means piston rings most likely need to be redone? If I am doing piston rings I would do head gasket as well. Anything else I would need to while here to make sure I get compression back?

Thanks again everyone!

[MarkWard]

Sorry, but it sounds like you have at least one melted piston. Would not be the first melted piston I came across on a 2.0 Vanagon engine. While you may be tempted to pull the heads with the engine in the Van, I do not recommend this. You will get a much better job with the engine in a stand. Hope I am wrong. Report what you find. I would also recommend John Muir's book, Volkswagen repair for the complete idiot. I don't think it covers the type 4 engine, but much of it is similar to the type 1 engine and will give you some insight into the job ahead. Very good read.
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[bobbyblack]

[gchristensen]

On your shifting video the 2nd of 2 posted above. The 1980 shifting end at the transmission is sliding on a guide pin and yours is squeaking as it probably needs the nylon ring that goes into a grove on said pin. It is an easy replacement as you need to unbolt it from the mounting point at the transmission. Around a 17 mm maybe larger. that pin has a round bulb at the end with a groove and that is where the nylon ring. But a bit of grease is needed as well.
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Joining now is our new 1982 diesel. This is an ongoing project under construction.

[Somethin2do]

Got the engine out! Although I feel I might have caused some damage to the transmission. I had a hard time pulling the engine forward enough to drop it away from transmission.

[Abscate]

That minor mechanical patina, not to worry.
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.ssS!

[MarkWard]

CV boots tear on their own. You are just noticing it. The throwout bearing just clips to the cross shaft. The Nick where the lower engine studs go through the bellhousing will be fine. Part of the learning process.
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[Somethin2do]

Thanks everyone for the help! I got the heads off and looking for some advice. I see oil in the heads on one of the springs, oil in the intake, and oil in the cylinders. Can this all be caused by a head gasket failure? Also, one of the metal pieces on the piston is broken, not sure if this will require me to replace the piston now? (Pic below i am holding the metal piece that fell off) The pics below are cylinders 3 and 4.

[MarkWard]

That is a melted piston. Sorry, it's done. You will want a new set of pistons and cylinders. You will also need to figure out why it melted. Too much timing or a lean mixture could cause that. A poorly sealed engine compartment or missing tin work will cause them to run hot. The piece you are holding is a piston ring. Each piston has 3 rings.
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[Somethin2do]

[Somethin2do]

Just saw that the back of the head looks chipped. Is this an issue?

After i cleaned it up some

[westina]

I can relate to your story a little bit. I have purchased an 84 without actually seeing it and towed it from texas to NY.
If tires are dry rotted, she was probably sitting long time like mine was. i have replaced lots of parts and u probably will do the same. save some time and place a big order of most stuff you would need. Filters, injectors, seals, gaskets, ignition parts, etc etc.
I have started with fuel tank, pump, injectors, radiator, so on and on. But my purchase price being 2500$, i kind of know what was waiting for me. we r in the same boat. I don't regret my decision and having fun. so far so good. Good luck.

[MarkWard]

You are there, I am not. Any weak cylinder will rob power from the other cylinders. Engines run best when all things are equal. You can bandaid it together or you can do it right. If it were me, I would pull both heads, all the rods and Pistons. Evaluate condition and then decide what you need and what you can afford. Good luck.
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[AZ Landshaper]

Consider a conversion. The aircooled engine is a relic. Its under powered and not that terribly reliable. For the cost of a "well built" aircooled replacement I was able to buy an entire subaru and the kit from KEP to make the conversion. Another 1500 in parts (cooling system and electrical harness work) had me up and running with a modern more powerful motor that is far more fun to work on and drive.
Just a thought but I would bet that more than half of your commenting samba members are running swaps in their campers. And you can spend a chunk of $$$$ on an AC motor only to be let down by power reliability and availability of parts.

Yup yup. PB Casey and Mark are all running a conversion of some nature, looks like TDIs.

To boot I got 900 for my old AC engine after all was said and done (mine was running).
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85 Weekender w/ EJ22
Previously
64, 71, 72, 73, 76, 81, 84, 85 & 87 Campmobiles and Westfalias
and a 67 bug.

[WestyWanter]