77 bus wont start.

[thearkofnoahofwest]

I moved the line back to the bus tank. I ordered new injector seals and will install them tomorrow. I also hauled it to my new shop and put gas in it while hauling it. And fuel leaked out. Not while I was filling it, afterward. While hauling it.

[SGKent]

Colin had old fuel, rust and varnish in a tank that had been sitting. After 5,000 miles of fuel system cleaner and fuel filters every 9 to 100 miles he stopped by, pulled the tank and we took it to a place that cleans tanks. the breather hoses, elbow etc hose under the spare tire etc can leak. So can the O-ring under the gauge sender. They crack and fall apart.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[thearkofnoahofwest]

Okay. So the junk due fail I had was leaking air bad. I replaced it along with all of the injectors with some I had from my 2.0 golf it runs great, except it idled very high and when I give it throttle it makes lots of popping noises and cuts out. Probably has something to do with vaccum. But im not sure

[Wildthings]

[thearkofnoahofwest]

So the terrible idle was because, well, im an idiot. I had a line blocked off that was pretty important. Luckily I fixed that. Now it starts and idles nicely. When I give it any throttle, it starts popping and cutting out and eventually shutting off. Im going to start tomorrow by adjusting the valves and then timing. Luckily for me the timing marks on the crank pulley are completely gone. But I figured if the valves haven't been adjusted in 15 years, I may need to start there with all of the fuel updates.

[thearkofnoahofwest]

Okay. Valves are all adjusted. Idle is beautiful. The second you give it throttle it dies. Im guessing there is a vaccum leak. Something abiut the vaccum advance system on the distributor. Im going to test all the vaccum and hopefully it'll give me an answer. If all goes good, today will be the day!

[Wildthings]

Is the plug attached to your AFM? Is your fuel pump running and putting out the proper pressure?

[thearkofnoahofwest]

The plug is attached. Im having issues getting it started. You have to hold the AFM flap open to get it running, and with the dow in you can throttle up fine. (Runs super rich) .Once you remove the dow, it sputters with throttle then cuts out. It idles much better without the dow though. No black gassy exhaust.

Is there a way to adjust the flap itself maybe? I know there is a screw on top of the afm but it wont idle unless its turned all the way in. When you back out with that screw it starts to sputter and shuts off.

[Wildthings]

[thearkofnoahofwest]

Ive officially been introduced to the buses natural personality. I was trying to work on it the other morning and it just wouldent. I turn the key and the fuel pump kicks on but it's not turning over. The starter isn't clicking, the wiring is good, it just wont. I can't diag anything. I had to push it across the driveway. Which, was not easy by myself. I feel defeated.

[SGKent]

so rule #1. VW buses (and bugs too) see almost a 100% solenoid sticking problem every so many miles and years. The best fix is to clean and lube it once every couple years or if it acts goofy.

rule #2. Car batteries last only 3 - 5 years as a general rule. They last less if the car sits around and the battery gets low. Learn how to check battery voltage so you know if the problem is the battery.

rule #3. Ignition switches can go bad, so can battery cables etc.

So which do you think it is? What would your instinct tell you?
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[bbrowncods]

Wow. Ok. This has been a long ordeal and I see where you are frustrated. But the bus, the engine, is not a living creature that feels, thinks, needs lubing to feel better, throws a temper tantrum, or tries to piss you off.

It is a machine. It operates under a narrow set of parameters of the Otto Cycle with a specific type of fuel, oxygen, compression, and spark. That is it. It is part of a system that works in a vehicle. As far as running the engine you need to make sure you have compression (cam, valve train, crank, pistons, flywheel are all 100%); oxygen (clean air filter, throttle works, intake system works with 100% no leaks); fuel (gasoline in the tank, lines clear, pump works, filter clean, injectors clean and operate, no leaks, good pressure, basically the EFI system is 100%)
The Bosch EFI on the 77 bus is a "open loop" control system. All it does is inject fuel based on what the pre-programmed ECU tells it. This is in contrast to a "closed-loop system", like an EFI system that has an O2 sensor. Closed loop systems can compensate for small leaks, or lower fuel pressures, or missing components (like the EGR). An open-loop system has no way of knowing that there is no EGR or that there is a small vacuum leak, so it is less tolerant of such incidences.

There are devices that are attached to the engine. Some control the way the engine runs, like the EFI system . The starter, generator, transmission, and air filter, etc. do things not associated with the running of the engine but are needed for the engine to operate in a larger system (vehicle).

Now please understand that I am not trying to be presumptuous or a smart ass. I'm trying to walk you through some of the things you need to think about and be methodical in your testing. Do not assume anything! Your engine not running can be caused by a vacuum hose that has come loose, or a hole in a piston (which is basically a huge vacuum leak).
Right now your problem is not the engine. It is the starter not turning the engine over. I would begin with the battery voltage. Do you have a voltmeter? Then go to the starter. Is there voltage? Keep working down the wiring diagram until you find out if it is the battery, starter, high resistance in the wire to or from the ignition switch, or the ignition switch.

Back to the engine. I am with Wildthings. Not enough fuel! This could mean too much air as well. You may have all the vacuum lines all connected. But are the devices they are connected to 100%? Check each of those vacuum devices for leaks, including the brake booster.
Then start in on the fuel system. Simple stuff first. Is there gas in the tank? Are you sure? I've been here!
And just like the starter work your way down the line; filter, pump, injectors, regulator, etc.