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Main Stud question
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Should I time cert my main stud holes
Yes, tapping will make them too weak for the engine to last
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No, if the studs hold the torque to spec there won't be a problem
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Total Votes : 2

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rosiensandiego
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 12:08 am    Post subject: Main Stud question Reply with quote

This is my first post but I've used this site for info for a long time.

So first let me say thank you for the years of letting me troll the site over the years (the original use of that term, not the new: A-hole drumming up fights "troll")

I'm building a 72(73?) squareback that has too much of a story to describe here so I'll start a project log with the full story later. Just FYI

Also I'm planning on running L3 ACN heads with 2020 build. 1835 at least. Depends on how much money I dump into my motorcycle next month.

Any way

My question that I haven't been able to find the answer to is regarding the main studs. When I was splitting the case I had two nuts hold on to the studs and come out and I haven't been able to find any specs on reinstalling them. Such as the depth they need to be installed or how many threads I should have showing when the cases are put back together with the nuts torqued or even which holes get the long studs and which 4 get the shorter ones. I want to assume the center ones get the long studs but I didn't make a note of where they came from because everything is even and didn't think there would be any reason for them to be different lengths.... Whoops

Now one piece of info I did find regarding the main studs was in regards to tapping the holes for the main studs and that great care should be taken to not take any material out. Well I already ran through all the holes because there seemed to be a very thick hardened type of RTV everywhere and overall the entire engine build was messy and who knows what was down there. So I did remove a very minor amount of material from the threads but not so much as to suspect that the threads were damaged and that I did a real "re tapping" of the holes. My question is: what do you guys think? Should I time cert all the holes since I tapped them and that's a huge no-no? Or if I use a good (non threadlocker) anaerobic sealant and everything torques to spec it shouldn't really be an issue?


Thanks in advance.

Rosie in San Diego
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 4:12 am    Post subject: Re: Main Stud question Reply with quote

Always have inserts installed for the head studs.

You have three lengths of head studs. The 8 longest ones go into the bottom row on each side. The 4 shortest ones go in the center, on top of each side of the engine. The other 4 go in the remaining holes in the top row.
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rosiensandiego
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 8:24 am    Post subject: Re: Main Stud question Reply with quote

Donnie strickland wrote:
Always have inserts installed for the head studs.

You have three lengths of head studs. The 8 longest ones go into the bottom row on each side. The 4 shortest ones go in the center, on top of each side of the engine. The other 4 go in the remaining holes in the top row.


Thanks for the reply Donnie,

Maybe I'm calling them by the wrong name but I'm talking about the 6 studs that squeeze the main bearings and case together. The head bosses already have 10mm case savers and are keeping me from boring the cylinder holes out past 92mm.

Cheers
Rosie in San Diego
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 8:48 am    Post subject: Re: Main Stud question Reply with quote

Ah, I see. I've always left those alone, but if you feel the threads are iffy you may want to have the studs and/or the case looked at.
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rosiensandiego
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 2:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Main Stud question Reply with quote

Thanks

So anyone else know about these studs? Where do the 2 long ones go?
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rosiensandiego
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 3:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Main Stud question Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Hope this clears things up

Rosie in San Diego
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 5:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Main Stud question Reply with quote

rosiensandiego wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Hope this clears things up

Rosie in San Diego


I've never had to pull those studs, and I've never had 1 pulled. If you're going to have any alignbore work done, you'll need them installed so the machinist can do his job.

My best suggestion would be to contact someone at RIMCO, or Brothers Machine, or someone like that and see what they suggest. Sorry, but that's the best I can do.
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ach60 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 7:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Main Stud question Reply with quote

Photo from Gallery:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I may be over simplifying what you are asking,
but I would put the case together, and then drop the studs in, and thread them into the case.
When done correctly they should extend the same length out of the case.
Once you know their location you can put the nuts & washers on to see if the studs/case will take full torque.
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rosiensandiego
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 8:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Main Stud question Reply with quote

ach60 wrote:
Photo from Gallery:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I may be over simplifying what you are asking,
but I would put the case together, and then drop the studs in, and thread them into the case.
When done correctly they should extend the same length out of the case.
Once you know their location you can put the nuts & washers on to see if the studs/case will take full torque.


Getting closer! Now if the holes in the block were different depths then it would be self evident as to which 2 go into which hole. However that isn't the case. Yes I could run them all down and then I would have 2 that ran deeper than the other 4 and without the "why are those 2 longer than the other 4".

My machine shop is far away and I want it torqued for the line bore before I drop it off to be cleaned and machined.
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Rosie in San Diego
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rosiensandiego
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 3:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Main Stud question Reply with quote

Everything about this motor has been funky.

Long story short, I was supposed to have 3 long and 3 less long studs.

VWParadise hooked me up with one and it's ready for the machine shop.

Thanks everyone.
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Rosie in San Diego
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ach60 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 8:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Main Stud question Reply with quote

rosiensandiego wrote:
Everything about this motor has been funky.

Long story short, I was supposed to have 3 long and 3 less long studs.

VWParadise hooked me up with one and it's ready for the machine shop.

Thanks everyone.


That's great.
So where do the long ones go, and where do the shorter ones go?
Photo would be nice too.
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rosiensandiego
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2018 6:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Main Stud question Reply with quote

Hey Al,
You know, I don't remember as it's been so long and I didn't reply right away because life started moving pretty quickly. It had something to do with 3 on top and 3 on bottom allowed for maximum thread engagement and not too much thread sticking out on top. I hope I still have the pictures. They would've been on an old iPhone.

So what I DO remember is I threaded them all in and there was 1 that was sunk in when threaded all the way down. I replaced that with a long one and no problem. What I heard though is it was supposed to have only 2 long ones and that went on the transmission side of the block. I've got the long block put together and am still looking for tins. I plan on posting the whole engine build AFTER I get it running just in case the things I did are a disaster I can save some face. Smile
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Rosie in San Diego
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