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The Stupid Question Thread
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 3:41 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

jleeb39 wrote:
Here's a dumb sounding one, I have a '71 type 1 that I've been working out 40 years of chopped and spliced wiring,trying to get everything working.....it has an aftermarket alternator with internal voltage reg(I have 2 identical),I'm getting no charge output from either, the batt wire on the 10mm lug has power,the ground is good, but I'm lost at the "D+" post is it supposed to have a reference voltage or what?


Well, When running an alternator, of course, the old VW Generator Regulator get's removed and Jumped around directly to the battery.
The Generator light in the dash becomes part of the excitation circuit for it.
The Alternators with External Voltage regulators will need the correct external voltage regulator and will need to be wired correctly for the alternator to charge.

Your generator lamp must good and the 61 wire (blue) from it needs to connect through to your D+ wire on the Alternator. The 12 volts from the ignition on the 61 wire is needed for the Alternator to begin charging. Once charging, however, the Alternator has its own set of diodes that take over to produce more voltage and current. When this starts happening the Gen/Alt lamp goes out because it will have 12 volts from the Ignition on its base and 12 volts from the Alternator D+ on it's tip via the 61 wire.

So the typical VW external voltage regulator will have matching colors for proper wiring. It must be grounded and it's Brown wire to the (D-) terminal on the alternator grounds the alternator (D-). It's D+ wire connects to the 61 wire and the alternator D+ and an (alternator external voltage regulator) usually has a green wire that goes to the alternator field terminal (DF).

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Jim H.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 8:29 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I apologize for interrupting the topic at hand, but I have kind of a 'semi'-stupid question. Why is it difficult to push a new oil strainer into it's orifice at the bottom of the VW aircooled engine block? I had to place it in position, and then twist the plate's cap-nuts onto the studs just to push it into place so I could get the gakets and plate on snug. Is this just my nightmare..or is it a common issue with other A/C VW engines? Rolling Eyes
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 5:50 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

They seem to be fitting worse over the years. Not sure why the cheap aftermarket parts have to fit so bad. I usually place the sump plate over it and hit it with a rubber mallet and that usually fits it into place and does the job.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 10:06 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

If it helps at all, use your original strainer.
They never need to be replaced, only cleaned, unless they are damaged.
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mukluk
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2018 9:22 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Oil pickup tubes over the years from different size engines and manufacture locations differ in diameter. Since most of the new oil strainers are universal fit, the center portion is generally sized so that it has a positive fit on the smallest size oil pickup tube whereas the tube that most people in this forum posses is actually the largest diameter tube, hence why they're so difficult to install the first time around. Solutions to the problem are either as suggested, just clean and reuse the old one, or if you have to use a new one just take a deep well socket the same diameter as your pickup tube and shove it into the filter center to presize it prior to install.
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Patrick_S
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 10:22 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I have the stock metal exhaust gaskets. One side has a bulge for crushing and the other side is flat. Does it matter which way I put them? Between the muffler and the cylinder head.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 10:54 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Put the bulged side toward whichever sealing surface is more uneven, usually that's the muffler due to the welded flange on pipe construction.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 9:07 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Another stupid question, got a 71 super everything is brand new in the car just got finished with the wiring everything seems to work except when I turn the key on my brake lights are on when I step on the break they go out, brand new master cylinder brand new brake light Brake light switches. Any idea? Is this the correct wiring for a 71 super?
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 9:24 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Ron G wrote:
Another stupid question, got a 71 super everything is brand new in the car just got finished with the wiring everything seems to work except when I turn the key on my brake lights are on when I step on the break they go out, brand new master cylinder brand new brake light Brake light switches. Any idea? Is this the correct wiring for a 71 super?
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Correct, 82a is switched power from the fuse block, 81a is the feed to the brake warning light, and 81 goes to the brake lights.

Disconnect the wiring from the brake light switches and make sure you have continuity from 81a to 81 and no continuity from 82a to either other terminal with the brakes not applied. With the brakes applied, you should then have continuity from 82a to 81 and no continuity from 81a to the other terminals. If you find your brake switches have the reverse of these, you need to swap the wires between 81a and 82a.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 11:01 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

How can you tell if your seats are the original VW factory covers? Would they have had VW tags on them somewhere?

I ask because I picked up this set of period correct seats (highback with wider headrests) for my 69 sedan DELUXE Very Happy a few months back from a guy on craigslist:

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I just grabbed them because the guy was only asking $100 and they were in great shape. I didn't think anything of the blue color of the seats (except how they didn't go well with my red exterior at all.) Smile

Well, chatting with a very knowledgeable VW guy the other day when looking at some parts he had for sale, he noticed my seats and said they were definitely factory VW and were an ultra-rare color especially for that model year. I perused through the paint/ upholstery section on here looking at the original VW brochures and none of them show anything like this leatherette color for 68 or 69 (the two years that would have used this style seat.) The guy that originally sold them to me also said they were the original seats out of a 68.

I am not gullible enough to think I got a set of uber-rare seats for $100 but this guy now has me wondering, so I would at least like to know whether there is a way to tell if the seat covers are original VW.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 10:46 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

There is a tag in the coco padding, with a part number on it. They always came off during a reupholstering job. If its there, those are originals. But you would have to remove the cover to find out! Might not be worth it!
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 3:52 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I wouldn't touch them either if they're in as good shape in person as in the pics. A steal at a $100 bucks for sure.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 6:38 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

OK, was hoping maybe there was a tag on the bottoms of the seats if I removed them and turned them over.
I was going to paint them with that black vinyl spray paint to match my interior. I told this guy that and he about blew a gasket insisting I don't touch them. So I guess I'll just have mismatched colors Very Happy
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 7:11 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

sb001 wrote:
OK, was hoping maybe there was a tag on the bottoms of the seats if I removed them and turned them over.
I was going to paint them with that black vinyl spray paint to match my interior. I told this guy that and he about blew a gasket insisting I don't touch them. So I guess I'll just have mismatched colors Very Happy



That's okay, I nearly popped a brain aneurysm in the head of this one kid when I was looking at his bug.
He had the Pro-Car90 replacement seats (the basic lowback vinyl with headrest http://www.scatvw.com/custom-seating-systems/seats/pro-90/ ) he wouldn't budge on his price saying that 'My buddy who is a VW nut told me those are really good seats and they are worth at least $2k by themselves' I pulled up the exact seats for $290 a piece and showed him on my phone. I thought I was gonna have to do CPR on that poor guy. Shocked
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 8:18 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

AlmostHeavenWV_VW wrote:

That's okay, I nearly popped a brain aneurysm in the head of this one kid when I was looking at his bug.
He had the Pro-Car90 replacement seats (the basic lowback vinyl with headrest http://www.scatvw.com/custom-seating-systems/seats/pro-90/ ) he wouldn't budge on his price saying that 'My buddy who is a VW nut told me those are really good seats and they are worth at least $2k by themselves' I pulled up the exact seats for $290 a piece and showed him on my phone. I thought I was gonna have to do CPR on that poor guy. Shocked


That's why I wanted to see if these were original VW or not- if I found out they were TMI or some such I wouldn't give a crap whether I painted them or not. But if they are some rare VW color I'd be better off leaving them alone.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 1:17 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

sb001 wrote:
AlmostHeavenWV_VW wrote:

That's okay, I nearly popped a brain aneurysm in the head of this one kid when I was looking at his bug.
He had the Pro-Car90 replacement seats (the basic lowback vinyl with headrest http://www.scatvw.com/custom-seating-systems/seats/pro-90/ ) he wouldn't budge on his price saying that 'My buddy who is a VW nut told me those are really good seats and they are worth at least $2k by themselves' I pulled up the exact seats for $290 a piece and showed him on my phone. I thought I was gonna have to do CPR on that poor guy. Shocked


That's why I wanted to see if these were original VW or not- if I found out they were TMI or some such I wouldn't give a crap whether I painted them or not. But if they are some rare VW color I'd be better off leaving them alone.

The only thing that makes me lean toward them possibly being OEM covers is the presence of the two buttons at the base of the headrest that are stitched through the seat padding -- that's not a feature you see at all often on aftermarket upholstery.

My opinion is it's your car, your seats, so do with them as you please. If somebody is willing to step up and shell out some $$$ to your liking to purchase them from you great, otherwise I can't think of a good reason to tailor your property to the whims and wishes of others.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 6:16 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

All the info I can find about removing and installing the engine and transaxle indicates how to do each separately. Can the engine and transaxle be removed/installed as a unit and is so would that be a preferred way to do it?
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 6:24 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

The engine weighs A LOT more than the transmission. I suppose if you have the tools to balance the assembly w/out breaking your nose cone you can do it. HOWEVER - i'm not sure if there's enough room in the engine bay for the hockey stick to clear the body if the engine's still attached.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2018 11:16 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RichNJohn wrote:
All the info I can find about removing and installing the engine and transaxle indicates how to do each separately. Can the engine and transaxle be removed/installed as a unit and is so would that be a preferred way to do it?

Think about this for a moment: if removing the engine and transaxle as a unit was the preferred method, then why is there no procedure for it in the shop manual?

As to whether it's possible, you would have to do one of two things: either remove the rear apron, or strip the engine down to a long block first (and even then some tweaking of the rear apron may be needed to get the engine clear).
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2018 5:22 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

A question. Which type of grease should I use on the gland nut bearing in the flywheel? I have the engine out of the car now and I read this is a good moment to add some fresh grease. Just regular lithium grease?
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