need some help with Vw Oval '54 ( ignition + not start )

[Rustycarsclub]

Hello guys
I have been a reader of this forum for a long time, and I would mainly like to introduce myself.
My name is Pedro, I am 23 years old and I currently live in Spain and I have restored a 1954 VW Oval from scratch.

The problem I have, is that after mounting everything, I think there is a step that I should not be doing correctly, but I bought the car disassembled completely in boxes, and I do not know exactly where I made the mistake.

After assembling everything, it does not start, the engine turns, it has compression, gasoline arrives at the cylinders, and I also verified that there was a spark coming from the distributor to the spark plugs (W8AC).

I tell you a little ...

Once I had the chassis ready, I mounted the mechanics completely, which repaired the cylinder heads, carburetor, segments etc ...

The mechanics is an original 30cv of the car, the pulley has 1 mark and carries a Distributor BOSCH 009 of 356.

After inquiring and asking, I was advised to adjust the valves to 0.15, and although I do not know if I'm going crazy but the process was simple.
The pulley in TDC, the distributor with the "finger" pointing to the delco mark, and adjusting the valves of cylinder number one.
Then counter-clockwise 180º to adjust the second cylinder, 180º more and adjust the third, and finally 180º and adjust the fourth cylinder.

Once the valves have been adjusted, the issue of the distributor is to replace the TDC mark with the block, which matches the cylinder one with the mark and with a test lamp connected to the negative coil and making a mass with the housing of the distributor for example, when I turn on the light it will be the right moment, will not it?

The contact sets I have placed at 0'40.

I've seen something about the 009 dealer, the 1-mark pulley and 7.5 degrees, can anyone help me? It starts to be exasperating ....

I apologize for my first message, and thanks to all, it is a great forum, with some great experts ...

Thanks again.

PD: Sorry for my english, google traductor help me

[D-train]

Is it a weak spark? Are the earth leads connected and in good order? 6volt or 12volt?
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shiny paint doesnt make it worth any more

[Rustycarsclub]

[D-train]

No problem. We are all here to help!

Make sure the earth straps from the chassis to gearbox and battery to chassis have a clean connection this will help with the power transfer.
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shiny paint doesnt make it worth any more

[Rustycarsclub]

I have not had any luck ... I had to change the starter motor because I did not change it and it did not work well for so many starting attempts, I have already put in a new one and we continue with the problem.

I have also removed the 009 distributor and I have put a BOSCH VJU 4BR8 ...

[D-train]

So all the earths were good? The fuses not frosted over?
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shiny paint doesnt make it worth any more

[0nebadbug]

Since you are using a 12v battery... Are you also using a 12v coil?

Using 12v battery on a 6v coil makes them explode sometimes (ask me how I know)... If so, buy a new 12v coil...

If they are both 12v, then even if you have weak spark it should at least pop or wheeze & try to fire when cranking over providing it isn't fouling the spark out.

You said fuel was getting to the pistons... How did you check this? Did you pull the spark plugs to find them wet with fuel? ...or are you just smelling fuel while cranking and assuming it's getting there? Because if spark is weak & if the carb is setup on the lean side it easily fouls the plugs at cold start. And if you pull the spark plugs to check them & they are wet? Then they are fouling... Disconnect the fuel, drain the bowl and try warming up the plugs a little, oven or clean flame, throw them back in quickly & then try a quick shot of Ether and see if she'll pop...

(I know it sounds weird but it has worked for me on more than one occasion from the "what haven't we tried yet" while trying to figure out the problem)
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::: Slowoval ::: LaDawri Sebring ::: '61 Creampuff ::: Dust Storm '66 :::

[fl59bug]

Try bringing cylinder number 1 piston to top dead center (make sure the #1 intake and exhaust rocker arms wiggle a little to be sure the valves are completely closed) then check where your distributor rotor button points to.

With #1 at top dead center, the rotor should point to the notch in the distributor rim which is the position of cylinder #1. It could be that the distributor shaft was installed 180 degrees off, and if it is you'll see that with #1 piston at TDC the rotor will actually point to #3.

If with #1 piston at TDC the rotor points to the #1 notch in the distributor rim great, but regardless which position the rotor points to, with #1 at TDC, make sure that you connect the #1 plug wire to whichever lead in the distributor cap that the rotor points to.

Once you've verified you have #1 wire in the right distributor cap hole, go counterclockwise around the distributor cap plugging in the #2, #3 and #4 wires.

Following this process you can rule out the possibility that you have the plug leads in the wrong order in the distributor cap.

[Rustycarsclub]