67 Kombi Build

[tisius]

That CAD 3.500,- is not a purchase price, that's money invested in order to learn how to weld on cars
And you WILL be welding .... a lot of work will need to go into that bus if you want to get it towards a drive-able condition.
But in all fairness, it looks more like a parts car to me, than a restoration project.
_________________
drive it like you just robbed the bank
you don't have to be crazy to be into VW's, but it sure helps!!
.... if it ain't dutch, it ain't much!

[sgellis]

[adriano]

Thanks for the M-Plate. Heater was installed and removed. Model was Perfection.
You can see a big hole in front and a cut made by torch on rear. White cables are still present.
Here the discussion:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=547342&highlight=heater+perfection

[frothbeast]

[frothbeast]

In order to solve the problem of insufficient 'throw' or 'jack height' on most automotive jacks, I created a 'member' which goes in between the legs of my cherry picker. I have been using this on bugs for several engine pulls and I find it works pretty good if you don't get too rammy with it.

Obviously the transmission is being held in by willpower:

I have to use a strap to hold the engine because i designed it with a swivel underneath:

I have a nice heavy welding bench which can handle the weight of the engine cantilevered out:

I used some pipe in a pipe as a swivel, and some dexion (big boy mechano) to make a 'cradle' to support the engine underneath:

There was still some nice looking oil in there and I was able to turn it by hand:

The engine is a '71:

[frothbeast]

engine compartment

[frothbeast]

Can anyone recommend where I could buy the splined drive shaft for the Reduction Gear Box? I am in Canada and have used Cip before for bug parts. They don't carry the shaft, and mine was abused before I got to it. there are not enough threads to hold it on.

[sgellis]

[frothbeast]

Here I found the crown nut was on backwards because the thread had been mashed up:

I have had no luck finding a replacement

[frothbeast]

And I removed the fuel tank which was well protected:

[frothbeast]

Now I have some choices to make......

Please chime in, even if it's to complain.....

I need to decide if I am going to attempt to weld in new "frame" bits with the "body" attached or separated.

Assuming i choose "body" off, where do I make the cuts over the front suspension area? I first assumed I would cut the "frame" away from the "body"(and not harm the "body"), since I am in the "frame" replacing business anyway. Now that I am underneath, I notice that over the suspension is the only good part of the "frame". I will have to shake some more rust out of there to get a real clear picture of what I can salvage, and what needs to go.

Is there any drawbacks to keeping it together, other than painting/welding/grinding from ridiculous angles?


Either way my first mission is to remove the glass, the wiring harness, and about 25 lbs of rust. and maybe the doors...

[glideking]

Separating the body from the frame is no small feat. Though the frame may exist without the body the body cannot exist without the frame. There is no "cut line".
Kurt
_________________
"The more I get done the less it looks like I did anything"
1959 Single Cab Restoration"Funky Truck"
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...highlight=
1965 21 Window Restoration Thread (From old photos)
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6...highlight=
1963 Panelvan build "Tyvanosaurus Wrecks"
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8351639#8351639

[frothbeast]

[Burlyhammer]

[getgeoff]

Hello fellow Canadian, I see that you have purchase a complete resto. I hope that you have sat down and calculated the cost to purchase all of the new metal that you will require. Check sources of WW and classic fab for examples. You will be surprised how quickly costs will arise. Then figure the amount of time and tools you will need to take on such a job. My guess it's not worth it. That rear frame rot next to the rear torsion housing was the deal breaker. Yes you can purchase new metal or you could patch in another donor section but what I have noticed is that there's not a lot of split window parts buses laying around for easy pickings. A lot of your source of parts will come from our friends in the USA but as you know the dollar exchange adds another 30% plus duty and taxes. Remember as this is only my opinion and I would use this as a parts bus. I have been able over the years been able to purchase some buses but they usually are missing interiors and drive trains. You have a good engine and other major mechanical parts plus hopefully a registration that you could use on a better shell. You will be happier taking a smaller loss now than when your knee deep in a pile of rust and credit card debt for all the stuff you had to purchase and your no further ahead.

[sgellis]

[frothbeast]

[tisius]

[frothbeast]

I primed my gas tank. Probably the only part of the van that needed little work. First i cleaned the solids out of the nipple, then I filled it up. No leaks so there it is, primed.

There's alot going on in that picture. Try to focus on the tank in the middle there.

[TDCTDI]

Go ahead & repair the sender unit while you have it out, I fixed mine & it works great.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7706426#7706426
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.