Body lift welding

[Buzzfagan]

Anyone have any suggestions as to how to fill these metal voids back in. Making a body lift kit that I had to make some bends in the steel for a dune buggy and using 11 ga steel tubing and cut 2” x 1 /1-2”, 2” x 1” and going to have to do some 2” x 2” for the main frame.

What would be the best way to mend these seams back together? Just can’t imagine doing it without some sort of filler. Any recommendations? Using a Lincoln Mif 180 for the work.

[Dale M.]

You could lay a piece of flat stock along outside edge of bend and just weld each "leg" to flat stock and seal any gaps up with RTV....


Dale
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"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[slalombuggy]

I would tack weld them near the bottom of the "V" of each cut to hold the curved shape. Then I would cut some 20ga sheet metal to cover the wide outside of the curve and cap the sides.

Or you could burn a spool of wire and a couple bottles of mig gas and weld them all up. The might hold their shape.......

brad

[cdnltded]

Turn the pieces owner so you collapsed the cuts not expand them.
I did as above on mine and didn’t use to much wire.
Check it out on my build thread. My project doom buggy

[gtrplyr]

I concur with cdnltded, not that it is required, but the piece will be stronger than with the cuts being on top. Good luck on your build.

[Dale M.]

[vwracerdave]

I'd throw that hodge-podge piece of shit pie in the trash. I'd get a piece of cardboard and make a templet of the curve then cut two sections out of sheet metal. Cut two more straight pieces, bend them to match the curve and weld the four pieces together into a box shaped curve. The body doesn't weigh 20 tons. A 6" length of straight tubing on each side of the curve will be plenty to support the weight of the body.
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[joemama]

I did what Racer Dave said. Worked for the front and the rear of the body lift.