Author |
Message |
davidmelton Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2013 Posts: 160 Location: Folsom, CA
|
Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2018 8:42 pm Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
We have made some progress the last few weekends, but not a lot of photos to show the work.
Jeff cut out the notches on the back of the cab so the gates would fit. He did a great job. He finished with painting and touching up the notches, dash, and some interior parts. The painting is now finished. We may need to do some additional wet sanding and/or polishing.
We started work on installing the speedometer and interior wiring along with the parcel tray. Unfortunately, a lot of the tags on wires in the cab were painted over. I forgot how time consuming (and frustrating) the wiring can be, especially with getting the grounding to work right. We had to do some scraping of paint to get the front turn signals to ground properly. Fortunately, a lot of good posts on The Samba for wiring.
Working on the rubber for the treasure chest. Okay, maybe I went crazy on the clips. I used some 3M rubber/auto product to help hold the rubber.
Next, decided to use a rubberized paint (as seen on tv) on the back side of Clara's door panels instead of using plastic sheets. We taped the edges to keep it off the gray paint on the edges and beauty side. This was more time consuming than I expected. The material was hard to roll, but we probably should have used different rollers.
Added rubber boots to the gate latches and the rubber stoppers on the sides of the gates. The gates are going to need some adjusting to line up correctly.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
ToolBox Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004 Posts: 3439 Location: Detroit, where they don't jack parts off my ride in the parking lot of the 7-11
|
Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 10:29 am Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
davidmelton wrote: |
Installed the new turn signals, headlights, and front bumper. Working on mounting the front emblem.
|
FYI that is a Type I headlamp housing. The bulb is clocked 90deg clockwise. You can mod the retainer to clock the bulb correctly. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
davidmelton Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2013 Posts: 160 Location: Folsom, CA
|
Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:40 pm Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
Hi ToolBox. Thank you for the reply. Do you mean the light bulb (main one not the parking bulb) needs to rotate 90 degrees, so that the writing on face of the bulb is horizontal? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cdennisg Samba Member
Joined: November 02, 2004 Posts: 20233 Location: Sandpoint, ID
|
Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:51 pm Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
davidmelton wrote: |
Hi ToolBox. Thank you for the reply. Do you mean the light bulb (main one not the parking bulb) needs to rotate 90 degrees, so that the writing on face of the bulb is horizontal? |
The ring that locates the bulb into the frame is for a beetle, and likely the entire headlight fixture. That ring is different on a bus so the bulb is sitting correctly to throw the light horizontally on the roadway.
The two parts on the left in this photo are the locating ring. ( I may not be using the correct nomenclature)
Also, bus outside rings have a small drain hole at the bottom, like this...
_________________ nothing |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24671 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
|
Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 10:01 am Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
The ribs in the lens of the headlight bulb are there to focus the light into a horizontal line of light on the road. With the headlight bucket you have now that is designed for a beetle you have a vertical line of light. Great for blinding oncoming drivers and searching for low flying stealth UFOs.
Here is a RH bus headlight:
Here is LH bus headlight:
Here is a beetle headlight position for both LH & RH:
Please note in each image where the mounting tab/screw to the body are positioned. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
davidmelton Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2013 Posts: 160 Location: Folsom, CA
|
Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 2:21 pm Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
Thanks for your help Eric&Barb & cdennisg! This is disappointing because I purchased the reproduction headlight kits from CIP1 and the description says it is for both a Bug (1946-1966) and Bus (1950-1967). Unless there is some adjustment I have failed to see.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
davidmelton Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2013 Posts: 160 Location: Folsom, CA
|
Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 2:23 pm Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
Any tips on how to keep the wires from the speedometer and dash switches need and tidy on their way behind the parcel tray to the kick panels? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24671 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
|
Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 2:33 pm Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
davidmelton wrote: |
Thanks for your help Eric&Barb & cdennisg! This is disappointing because I purchased the reproduction headlight kits from CIP1 and the description says it is for both a Bug (1946-1966) and Bus (1950-1967). Unless there is some adjustment I have failed to see. |
CIP1 is about the lowest quality of the VW parts suppliers we will buy from, and that only works for us because we know what to look for. On top of that the fellow/s typing in the info on those web pages might not even be really into VWs.
If you want the straight info for parts for your bus, then you need to explore the type 2 parts manual that were a VW dealer ONLY book. Can access such here:
http://www.oacdp.org/
Lot of exploded diagrams, lists part number and names of parts, how many used and what models. Enjoy! _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cdennisg Samba Member
Joined: November 02, 2004 Posts: 20233 Location: Sandpoint, ID
|
Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 7:23 pm Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
Eric&Barb wrote: |
davidmelton wrote: |
Thanks for your help Eric&Barb & cdennisg! This is disappointing because I purchased the reproduction headlight kits from CIP1 and the description says it is for both a Bug (1946-1966) and Bus (1950-1967). Unless there is some adjustment I have failed to see. |
CIP1 is about the lowest quality of the VW parts suppliers we will buy from, and that only works for us because we know what to look for. On top of that the fellow/s typing in the info on those web pages might not even be really into VWs.
If you want the straight info for parts for your bus, then you need to explore the type 2 parts manual that were a VW dealer ONLY book. Can access such here:
http://www.oacdp.org/
Lot of exploded diagrams, lists part number and names of parts, how many used and what models. Enjoy! |
Lots of bus headlights in the classified section on here. Buy some, restore them, and move on. Sell off those shitty CIP1 things at a swap meet, or just drop them in the dumpster and save someone else the hassle.
A good headlight build thread. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=372189 _________________ nothing |
|
Back to top |
|
|
BarryL Samba Member
Joined: November 01, 2004 Posts: 14218 Location: Casa de Oro, California
|
Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:14 am Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
davidmelton wrote: |
...I purchased the reproduction headlight kits from CIP1 |
Did they come in boxes that said EMPI? They can be rescued to become bus-able.
davidmelton wrote: |
Any tips on how to keep the wires from the speedometer and dash switches need and tidy on their way behind the parcel tray to the kick panels? |
You can arrange them into their natural paths and route the bundles through your choice of appropriate heat-shrink but don't shrink the heat-shrink just use it like vinyl covering. You will have to put the wires into their chosen sleeves first before attachment, of course.
This is factory wiring under a '65 bus. I can't say if '60 was like this but I'd bet it was close.
I added some of my own stuff inside heat-shrink tubing. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24671 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
|
Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 2:32 pm Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
Yes, no real easy way to make the wiring up there neat. Just try your best. More important to try to have wiring not rub against any sharp metal corner or each other as is possible. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
davidmelton Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2013 Posts: 160 Location: Folsom, CA
|
Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 9:48 pm Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
We have been getting a lot accomplished, but I have not been very good about taking photos. Why is it that things which should take 5 minutes take 3 hours and things you think will take 3 hours take 5 minutes?
I was able to clean up the headlight switch. The metal that sticks out from the hole in the dash cleaned up nice on the grinder/brush.
I purchased a remanufactured dome light. It was pretty flimsy. And it shorted out because the power on the back of the switch was touching against the body. Fortunately, I was able to clean up the old one and it looks great.
This is the one that shorted out:
Old one made to look new:
Installed and wired the Retro Sound radio along with a single speaker under the dash. It sounds better than I expected. The dash was already cut for a radio when I purchased the SC.
Installed retro looking Dehne fuel gauge.
Chrome ash tray.
Reinstalled the front/rear safari windows. The rubber around the windows was much easier to install than I expected.
Put the seats back in.
Installed treasure chest door.
Rubber floor mat.
Replaced the replacement headlights.
We worked for hours trying to get the wing window rubber on the window frames. I finally read a Samba post where someone suggested using wing window rubber from West Coast Metric. So I ordered new ones. We also learned that the paint was not sticking on the frames, so we are going to repaint this weekend. It kind of worked out that we could not get the rubber in.
And working to get the engine back in.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
ronjonlasvegas Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2004 Posts: 898 Location: Las Vegas, NV
|
Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 7:39 am Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
Your truck is looking great. You have made some significant progess, good job. _________________ September 1964 Standard Sunroof walk through SWR/BG original paint. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
davidmelton Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2013 Posts: 160 Location: Folsom, CA
|
Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 8:11 pm Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
Thank you for the kind words ronjonlasvegas! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
davidmelton Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2013 Posts: 160 Location: Folsom, CA
|
Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 8:46 pm Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
It seems like it took us forever to get the vent/wing windows done. Fortunately, there were a lot good tips on The Samba for the side windows. We used Safari window rubber for the seal between the glass and the vent/wing frame. It looks great except around the corners. I may do some trimming with a razor blade.
The tough part was the rubber that goes into the window frame. We used a lot of soapy water, silicone spray, paint stir sticks, and plastic wedges. And some yelling. We also found it helpful to use wood working clamps. I think it was faster to pull and reinstall the motor than the vent/wing rubber.
Next, we had a problem with the generator. The generator light on the speedometer would not go out. The generator would spin when hooked directly to the battery, but it would not generate when hooked up. We replaced the 12v regulator. It did not fix it. It turns out that the wire that connects to the bottom of the DF post had broken from the post. Fortunately, my Dad spotted it and we were able to solder it down. And then the generator started working.
The last accomplishment this weekend (but no photos) was fixing the accelerator. It would stick and not return upright after letting off on the gas. Some how the cable was stuck on the rubber from the engine compartment. We also added a "throttle cable guide tube with spring." It now works great. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
62DoKaGuy Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2011 Posts: 1276 Location: Surprise, AZ
|
Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 6:13 am Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
Looks like it's all coming together! I like the red seat upholstery - where did you get that from, if I might ask?
You might be well past the point of wanting to go back, but there is a screen available to go behind the radio/dash to sort of clean up that area. I am sure there are other vendors/alternatives, but here is Bill's, which I purchased and installed long ago. Really cleaned it all up!
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1768451 _________________ ,,Wenige Menschen denken, und doch wollen alle entscheiden.'' -der Alte Fritz
EverettB wrote: |
...I went at it from both ends but going from the rear didn't seem to do anything, although I did spray some rust breaker in there... |
4/62 Double Cab
5/61 Panel (sold)
4/59 Single Cab (sold) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
davidmelton Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2013 Posts: 160 Location: Folsom, CA
|
Posted: Mon May 07, 2018 9:56 am Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
Thanks Brian! I’m hoping that in real life the seats look brown in color. I love the material behind the vents on the dash. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
davidmelton Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2013 Posts: 160 Location: Folsom, CA
|
Posted: Mon May 07, 2018 10:33 am Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
We wanted to add the sheet metal cover under the floor pan. It protects a lot of parts under the SC. The brake switch was at the end of the master cylinder and hit the back of the cover. We had to move it and combine it with the rear brake line to the side of the master cylinder. We added a tee and combined the rear brake line and the switch. In doing so, I broke the end of the brake line. We replaced it with another front to back brake line only to find it was too short. Then added another smaller section of brake line with a union. No leaks and a lot of brake bleeding later, the brakes are working again and the metal cover is in place. The metal cover required more persuasion to install it than we expected.
Installed the engine deck lid, back bumper and license plate.
The speedometer was not working. Turns out the cable clip and fell off from the wheel/shaft. We replaced it and it the speedometer works again.
Next, we started on the passenger side door panel. We purchased the panels from Clara on the Samba and they look great. We did have trouble with the reproduction inside handles. The hole/slot for the pin was too far over and the pin would not slip in. We did a lot of banging and yelling before we figured it out. We fixed it by removing some material from the handle spindle.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
davidmelton Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2013 Posts: 160 Location: Folsom, CA
|
Posted: Tue May 15, 2018 1:14 pm Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
We continued to install the interior panels from Clara/Greg. We ended up cracking a small part of one door panel and one kick panel. My fault for pressing too hard. I think with a little touch up paint, no one will notice. Clara/Greg were always so fast to respond to my questions about installation or touch up paint.
Added new hub caps.
We added gas shock struts to the treasure chest and engine deck lid.
We added a shim to the bottom hinge on the driver’s side door. It really helped straighten out the alignment and the door shuts much better. Still have to exert a lot of pressure to close it properly. The passenger side shuts a little bit easier.
Installed the one-eyed duck to hold the wiper blades.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
oakman Samba Member
Joined: February 05, 2014 Posts: 1708 Location: Edge of the Desert, Ca
|
Posted: Sat May 26, 2018 9:52 pm Post subject: Re: Restoration: 1960 Single Cab |
|
|
Great progress on your truck!
I've had to cut the back side of the new door seals in order to thin them down a bit for the door to close properly without having to slam it shut. Seems to be a common problem with the seals that are currently available. There's probably a thread on it somewhere.
Keep up the good work! _________________ Brandon |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|