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Heater core valve stuck open
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vwdriverfoundvw
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2018 11:38 am    Post subject: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

My heater core valve seems to not close all the way. I always get some warm air coming out when the engine warms up. This makes summer time driving miserable. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement valve? I've read something about a Ford valve available at flaps?
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vwdriverfoundvw
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2018 11:44 am    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

Also, I have tried moving the lever on the valve itself manually. It did seem a little sticky at first but now it moves smoothly and still seems to let some water through.
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mankowski
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2018 6:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

They can be sourced from GoWesty, probably other vendors too.

The replacement job is not too difficult. If I remember correctly, you will want to remove the spare tire. Make sure when you install the new one that you orient the valve in a way that the lever has the full range of its movement. It can be positioned within the hose such that the lever hits nearby objects when fully extended to the open or closed positions.

Here is a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35MkLMMQrhc that shows the job.

You will want to get this done before summer comes!
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llilibel03
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2018 7:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

I bought Terry Kay's shut off valve.

http://vanagonwestfaliaaccessories.com



I can reach down and turn it on and off while driving no problem. It works like a charm. No more hot foot syndrome. I will post pics tomorrow of its location.
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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2018 8:30 am    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

Hot foot syndrome!

Check out this thread for a few more ideas for keeping your feet cool. Insulating the tunnel in front of the shifter helps to keep it cooler down there as well.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=237271&highlight=hot++foot++syndrome
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RichBenn
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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2018 2:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

I went through all the trouble of modding my system to use the ford turnoff valve rather than the $5.95 Mahle valve. I read here that the cheap replacement valves were failing.

The Ford heater valve started failing. Replaced it with the Mahle valve and zero problems. I’m bummed that I didn’t try it first. It’s much easier and works as designed.

Those other solutions are not needed, IMHO.
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llilibel03
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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2018 4:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

Here's that Terry Kay valve-


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is with my hand on the valve ( I can reach it while driving and still see the road YMMV)-


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I think it's an easier fix than replacing the original.
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RichBenn
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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2018 5:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

llilibel03 wrote:
Here's that Terry Kay valve-


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is with my hand on the valve ( I can reach it while driving and still see the road YMMV)-


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I think it's an easier fix than replacing the original.


But you don't have a functioning, where it should be, heater valve. I believe T.K. was partially responsible for the myth that the stock valve was no good. Even if you were to do that mod, 1/2" stalnless steel full port valves are cheaper and better than those "Parker" valves.

I was going to do that solution; I`m glad I didn't! My heater control, as designed, removes "all" heat from the cabin, and was very easy to do - no cutting.

BTW, hot foot syndrome is described in the Bently - a different animal than the heater valve not shutting off 100% and is a factory fix. Worth looking into if you have what's described there.
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DuncanS
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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2018 10:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

Did you disconnect the wire control that fastens to the lever and then try to see if it closes all the way? And drive with it in this mode? Definitely get rid of the spare tire as the valve is kinna out of the way and hard to deal with in the best of circumstances. I've had to replace two of the entire control wire and sheath units as the wire can bend and not work the valve properly. If the valve gets stuck, then the wire will bend and from then on not work properly. Adjustment is tricky. It takes a few times fastening the wire to the valve lever to get it right. The guys who say use the stock system are correct. An add-on reaching that far away from the wheel while driving will guarantee that you will wind up getting someone's insurance information or worse. Fix what the original engineers designed with new parts and forget about it ever after.
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 6:17 am    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

RichBenn wrote:


But you don't have a functioning, where it should be, heater valve. I believe T.K. was partially responsible for the myth that the stock valve was no good. Even if you were to do that mod, 1/2" stalnless steel full port valves are cheaper and better than those "Parker" valves.


This may very well be the funniest things I've read today!

Thank you for the chuckle. ^^^

The very thought that Terry "invented" bad VW water valves to sell $10 valves is funny beyond belief!

He started selling valves because either the VW Valves were bad, the cables kinked and/or the foam vent flap seals were rotting away and people were suffering from heat they could NOT stop from flowing out of the heater core!

Cheap Solution? turn off the water feed.

Read his old posts from 2008 or so......... he advocated that people fix their foam seals, he agreed with others solutions that a shut off valve at the engine, while inconvienent, is a great idea as was done in days of yesterday and is still done in heavy equipment today.

He came up with an easy to install, in cab solution (or at least brought it to market).

Terry no more invented bad VW water Valves that 10cent invented Ram Air that can't be shut off!
In like manner 10cent brought a solution to market!

Ridiculous comment!

Dave
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 8:24 am    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

djkeev wrote:
RichBenn wrote:


But you don't have a functioning, where it should be, heater valve. I believe T.K. was partially responsible for the myth that the stock valve was no good. Even if you were to do that mod, 1/2" stalnless steel full port valves are cheaper and better than those "Parker" valves.


This may very well be the funniest things I've read today!

Thank you for the chuckle. ^^^

The very thought that Terry "invented" bad VW water valves to sell $10 valves is funny beyond belief!

He started selling valves because either the VW Valves were bad, the cables kinked and/or the foam vent flap seals were rotting away and people were suffering from heat they could NOT stop from flowing out of the heater core!

Cheap Solution? turn off the water feed.

Read his old posts from 2008 or so......... he advocated that people fix their foam seals, he agreed with others solutions that a shut off valve at the engine, while inconvienent, is a great idea as was done in days of yesterday and is still done in heavy equipment today.

He came up with an easy to install, in cab solution (or at least brought it to market).

Terry no more invented bad VW water Valves that 10cent invented Ram Air that can't be shut off!
In like manner 10cent brought a solution to market!

Ridiculous comment!

Dave


I think that ridiculous comment is funny as all heck. Maybe if it had a winky after it. Don't be too serious. Wink Cool
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RichBenn
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 11:58 am    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

djkeev wrote:
RichBenn wrote:


But you don't have a functioning, where it should be, heater valve. I believe T.K. was partially responsible for the myth that the stock valve was no good. Even if you were to do that mod, 1/2" stalnless steel full port valves are cheaper and better than those "Parker" valves.


This may very well be the funniest things I've read today!

Thank you for the chuckle. ^^^

The very thought that Terry "invented" bad VW water valves to sell $10 valves is funny beyond belief!

He started selling valves because either the VW Valves were bad, the cables kinked and/or the foam vent flap seals were rotting away and people were suffering from heat they could NOT stop from flowing out of the heater core!

Cheap Solution? turn off the water feed.

Read his old posts from 2008 or so......... he advocated that people fix their foam seals, he agreed with others solutions that a shut off valve at the engine, while inconvienent, is a great idea as was done in days of yesterday and is still done in heavy equipment today.

He came up with an easy to install, in cab solution (or at least brought it to market).

Terry no more invented bad VW water Valves that 10cent invented Ram Air that can't be shut off!
In like manner 10cent brought a solution to market!

Ridiculous comment!

Dave


I'm not always great at getting my point across without offending people. There are so MANY mods here on theSamba that it's easy to get sucked into doing things that may not be necessary. It happens because often those doing mods have firmness of conviction. People like T.K., in particular, would post a solution, then belittle anyone who did anynthing else, or didn't use his product.

Yep, those original valves failed. Lots of things fail after 150K miles. Yep, there may have been a bad production run in the replacements. Yes you can put a valve under the heater cover. Yes, you can modify the heater cable entry point and a ford valve and get it to work. But in my own case, if I had just installed the stock valve I bought rather than mess around with a different solution(the Ford valve) I wouldn't have driven 500 miles coming back from a camping trip with the heat running when it was blistering hot out, let alone all the time I spent getting the cabling to work with the Ford valve initially and trying to fix it on the road.

So the original poster was asking about replacing the valve. What he was getting was "other" solutions. My advice is to replace the valve.
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llilibel03
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 3:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

I watched the video where the guy replaces the OE valve. You've got to get under the car. You have to remove the spare. It looks tight. You have to reach in and make sure the cable is aligned. You have to adjust the cable.

I'm lazy.

Terry Kay's valve was a 15 minute job- clamp, clamp, cut, cut, insert valve, clamp, clamp, release, release. Done. Put a towel under to catch the couple ounces of coolant in that small section of hose. I didn't bleed afterwards. I'm not a mechanic so I look for the easiest solution. And it works.

The OP can decide what's best for him.
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RichBenn
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 4:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

I can do the underneath valve in 10 minutes. Of course I did it twice. We all know the first time is much longer.Laughing
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DuncanS
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 7:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

Please just replace the OEM valve. It worked great when new. Why try to reinvent something that was just OK, but wore out after 25 or so years?
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llilibel03
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 8:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

RichBenn wrote:
I can do the underneath valve in 10 minutes. Of course I did it twice. We all know the first time is much longer.Laughing


10 minutes? You win.
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PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2018 10:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

My ‘85 Vanagon has the same problem: heat would always come out of the heater floor vents. My right foot was always hot. Very uncomfortable on warm days. After reading several threads here, my solution was easier, but never mentioned. I started with the intent of changing the OE valve. Adding a second valve seemed like the same amount of work, but the end result is a heater where you can’t adjust the heat levels.
But first, I wanted to see if the cables were the problems. So I removed the spare tire. On the dashboard, I had the heater turned off. My pliers are pointing at the cable valve lever. Notice the position of the lever in relation to the valve.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

But I couldn’t tell if this was actually closed all the way. So I removed the cable and I was able to close the vent lever by hand even more. Therefore, I deduced that the heater knobs on the dash, even though in the closed position, really didn’t close the valve all of the way. It was still about 10% open, thus my hot foot. (btw, 30 min pita to get the cable back into the lever). The only thing that needed to be done was to adjust the cables. Adjustments to the cables can be done behind the levers under the dash. I then removed the instrument panel, loosened the bolt shown below, and pulled the cable towards the passenger side until it became snug ( about a half inch). Then I tightened the bolt.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Now, when I close the heater lever all the way, the valve actually closes all of the way. See pic below and notice the extra distance of the valve lever in relation to the valve.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

No more constant heat burning my feet. Smile
Total time for me today was 3 hours. Had I known all I had to do was remove the instrument panel, pull the cable and adjust the screw, reinstall instrument panel - I could now do it in 30 min.
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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 4:20 am    Post subject: Re: Heater core valve stuck open Reply with quote

I used a two prong approach.

I did abandon the VW design valve.

Why? The repeated stories of new after market valve failure. I am smart enough to learn from others experiences.
I installed the Ford valve.
As a bonus I gained not only a replacement part found on almost every FLAPS shelf (incase it does fail) but I gained ease of cable adjustment.
No fiddly trial and error hard to get right clip system, but rather a positive slide clamp system using a mechanical fastener.

I did also install as a "fail safe" while the core was empty, the TK valve.
Honestly, I've never used it once but I abhor being hot so much that it is nice to know that I'll never be.

My worst cabin heat was radiant heat from the radiator making it through the firewall and shift lever. I pulled the carpet and insulated the area as tencent outlined using a radiant barrier. I now drive in cool comfort during the Summer and soothing warmth during the colder days, I control my cockpit environment, not the Van.

Dave
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