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surfdogskier
Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2018
Posts: 9
Location: East Tennessee
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 Posted: Wed May 02, 2018 7:54 pm Post subject: Help identifying 2 wires in engine bay. |
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Hey guys. I am cleaning up some ground wires and some engine compartments and found these 2 wires disconnected.
The one RED wire seems to be coming from under the part that has the vaccuum tubes come off of it. I see no connections anywhere. I have no idea where it plugs into or what it is for.
The other picture is from a cut wire that looks to be the same color as most of the ground wires but I want to make sure before attaching it. It is in the same wire bunch that goes to the fan blower but it branches off before getting there.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Once I get here running, she is going to get a engine bath for sure. Thanks in advance!
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21513
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Thu May 03, 2018 8:01 am Post subject: Re: Help identifying 2 wires in engine bay. |
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The red wire with the insulated end....is coming FROM the AAR.....your auxiliary air regulator....which is effectively your choke.
Without that wire plugged in....the AAR stays open all the time....and is effectively a LARGE vacuum leak and should cause hideous fuel mileage snd poor running.
The white wire is from the fuel injection system.....could go to anything in your fuel injection system. From the location....its probable that it goes to the thermo-time switch ....which is a single wire hex bolt shaped object booted to the case centerline under the center manifold. The thermo-time switch controls the off/on of your cold start fuel injector.
.......or it could be broken off the 2 wire plug that goes to the cold start injector itself.
It could also be a broken off main ground bundle wire. That wire bundle is where all 4 of the injectors are grounded. Its bolted to the case centerline under the center manifold right next to where the thermo-time switch is located.
Just remember.....there is not one "extraneous" wire in the EFI system.
There are also only 23 wires....and they are all numbered. Pull the plug off the ECU and trace each wire with the volt meter and find its number.
Ray |
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surfdogskier
Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2018
Posts: 9
Location: East Tennessee
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| Posted: Thu May 03, 2018 9:08 am Post subject: Re: Help identifying 2 wires in engine bay. |
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Ray, thank you for the info.
I can find for the life of me where the red wire from the AAR plugs into. Can you point this out? I swear, I must be blind!
I will trace back the white wire and see if I can find continuity. I am not thinking it is a ground anymore. Color is a little different. |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21513
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Thu May 03, 2018 11:15 am Post subject: Re: Help identifying 2 wires in engine bay. |
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| surfdogskier wrote: |
Ray, thank you for the info.
I can find for the life of me where the red wire from the AAR plugs into. Can you point this out? I swear, I must be blind!
I will trace back the white wire and see if I can find continuity. I am not thinking it is a ground anymore. Color is a little different. |
It might very well be that white wire missing its end. If you turn on the key and that wire has 12 volts +.....that is probably it....but you need to check ALL of your wires and plugs.
Check the ground bundles and thermo-time switch under the manifold. All four injectors. The intake air temp sensor ...2 wire plug, the cylinder head temp sensor...single wire insulated plug, MPS ...four wire plug....Throttle valve switch...4 or 5 wire plug....and trigger points plug.....3 wire plug on the distributor....and cold start injector plug a 2 pin plug.
Does this engine run?
The red wire from the AAR plugged into a square rectangular plug insulator housing called a T-1 connector
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If you scroll down the page in this thread to the group picture
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=338938
The T-1 connector is the first one in from the left end.
Ray |
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surfdogskier
Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2018
Posts: 9
Location: East Tennessee
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| Posted: Thu May 03, 2018 1:27 pm Post subject: Re: Help identifying 2 wires in engine bay. |
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The engine does NOT run. I can't even get it to fire at all. It will turn over. I did get it to fire using starting fluid but just for a breif second or two.
This is what I have. The broken wire has no power until you turn the engine over. Then it reads upwards of 12v. Turn off the key, you have no power.
I pulled the plug off the regulator board. I have continuity from point 12 to that wire. From what I see in my Haynes book, this wire goes to the "Supplementary air valve". Is this the same as the Auxilary Air Regulator? |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21513
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Thu May 03, 2018 7:09 pm Post subject: Re: Help identifying 2 wires in engine bay. |
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| surfdogskier wrote: |
The engine does NOT run. I can't even get it to fire at all. It will turn over. I did get it to fire using starting fluid but just for a breif second or two.
This is what I have. The broken wire has no power until you turn the engine over. Then it reads upwards of 12v. Turn off the key, you have no power.
I pulled the plug off the regulator board. I have continuity from point 12 to that wire. From what I see in my Haynes book, this wire goes to the "Supplementary air valve". Is this the same as the Auxilary Air Regulator? |
Yes.....that is another name for the same part. 
You need to go through the basics. Which engine is this? 2.0 or 1.7?
First.....no vacuum leaks allowed....none...nada.....not even tiny ones. This is a vacuum load regulated system. The smallest vacuum leak is read by the MPS....as throttle open movement.
Two orders of business. Make sure your fuel pump runs when you turn the key to the first position.....for about 2.3 seconds. If you get no fuel pump "buzz" you have pump or relay issues. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel ring at the connection between cylinder 3 and 4. If the pump buzzes when you turn the key.....bump it 3-4 times to charge pressure up and read the gauge. It should read a minimum of about 23 psi when the engine is ofc and 28 psi when running. If it drops off quickly you need a new fuel pressure regulator.....or you have a check valve leaking in the pump.
If you have no fuel pump buzz. Check the relays and grounds. If those are good...check that you are getting 12v to the pump.
Second....go through the basics of checking the ignition system...points, power, ground, wirea, plugs, rotor, cap.... and then.....pull the distributor out, remove the trigger point plate in the bottom of the distributor and cleancthe triggers and contacts...and lube the cam follower rubbing blocks.
Check every wire from the ECU to where it is supposed to go.
Check the MPS by sucking on it or using a hand pump to make sure it holds vacuum.
Install new injector seals, new cork gasket at the oil breather, new intake runner boots and a,new o-ring between the throttle body and intake manifold and check the intake runner to head gaskets for tightness and leaks.
Again....not one tiny vacuum leak allowed.
Let us know what you find and we will continue. Ray |
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surfdogskier
Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2018
Posts: 9
Location: East Tennessee
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| Posted: Thu May 03, 2018 8:18 pm Post subject: Re: Help identifying 2 wires in engine bay. |
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I have the 1.7.
A lot of what you mentioned, I have already done. Most of the ignition info has already been done. Got to look into the cam follower rubbing blocks. That's new one on me.
Already installed a new fuel pump. Seems to be working fine. Don't know specifically the pressure but I do know it is pressing fuel through the lines.
My biggest issue will be the vaccuum hoses. I replaced most of them. I just need to double check. I am putting on a cold air intake to replace the oil pan intake. I hope to have it in tomorrow or Saturday.
I will post a update. Thank you Ray for all of your help. You are a life saver! |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21513
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Thu May 03, 2018 10:05 pm Post subject: Re: Help identifying 2 wires in engine bay. |
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| surfdogskier wrote: |
I have the 1.7.
A lot of what you mentioned, I have already done. Most of the ignition info has already been done. Got to look into the cam follower rubbing blocks. That's new one on me.
Already installed a new fuel pump. Seems to be working fine. Don't know specifically the pressure but I do know it is pressing fuel through the lines.
My biggest issue will be the vaccuum hoses. I replaced most of them. I just need to double check. I am putting on a cold air intake to replace the oil pan intake. I hope to have it in tomorrow or Saturday.
I will post a update. Thank you Ray for all of your help. You are a life saver! |
The "cam follower rubbing blocks"....understand.....aside from the IGNITION points in the top of the distributor to provide spark.....there are two sets of trigger points....Underneath....the ignition points and only accessible from the side. They have their own cam inside. This is what actually supplys the timing and signal for your injectors. They have a plate with both sets of trigger points attached.....and they have rubbing blocks just like your ignition points....that rub on the cam that have to be lubed and cannot be allowed to wear out.
As for your fuel pressure.....just having pressure is not useful. You need to know the EXACT pressure.
This is a fixed fuel pressure system. Fuel dosage is pressure X time. The ECU assumes your fuel preasure is correct and stable...because there are no downstream oxygen sensors to tell the ECU otherwise.
You need to get a gauge set up. A crude one can be made from a 60 psi water gauge, a brass barb, 2 feet or fuel line and 2 hose clamps....for $20-ish.
That just tells you if you are close within +/- 2 psi.....better than nothing. I would spend q little more for a REAL gauge.....not a "fuel tester " kit from an auto parts store either. There is not one "kit" on the market that accurate. I will post some part #'s in the $40 ish range in the am. Ray |
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