Engine running hot

[dickshadow]

Hi I have a 1967 with a 1600dp. It has a weber progressive carb that has been jetted to what aircooled.net recommends. Running a 009 with electronic ignition. Factory dog house with heat exchangers. Problem I’m having is that it seems to run really hot to the point I hear the valves clacking under load. I don’t have an oil temp gauge but can tell it’s hot. Only gets this way after driving it nonstop for a distance. Does fine around town and at idle. Any ideas on what can be done. Thanks

[bugheadred]

check to see if the under cyl. tins are in place . check timing check to see if your oil is broke or diluted with gas (fuel pump leaking )

[dickshadow]

I know tins are in place. Could possibly be the oil didn’t think of that as it was running rich before carb was rejetted. And I did notice it being a little wet looking around base of fuel pump

[Eric&Barb]

Well all the holes in the engine tin is not helping at all. Hot air is blowing out the rear lower of the engine to shed heat. You do not want that hot air to be sucked back into the engine compartment. Replace the front of pulley tin so it matches the rear cover tin you have. Anytime you can see the pavement thru the tin in the engine compartment, it needs to be fixed.

You need the sealing tins around each of the intake heat riser pipes.

Plug the hose connection on the top right of fan shroud, so cooling air is pumped over the engine and not leaked out like that.

Get the spark plug wires holder to both hold the cables and plug up the holes in the rear of the shroud.

Next time you drop the engine measure the inner width of the outer edge of the cooling fan. Should be 33, 34, or 35 mm.

Missing the rubber seals around each of the two fresh air tubes.

Post images of up front of the fan shroud!
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

[Cusser]

[Eric&Barb]

[bluebus86]

Yes, get the gaps in the tin plugged up, all of them. cap the hose connection on the shroud, install a breather using correct type aircleaner so you have crankcase breathing set up to reduce oil leaks.

if it is a doghouse system, of course confirm fan is correct, you can probably measure the fan as motor is, installed. make sure fan is not blocked, full of debris. make sure fins on head cylinders are not blocked with debris. peer down the spark plug access holes to make sure leafs paper and such is not packed in the fins.

check timing, back it off if in doubt.
Make sure your gasoline Octane is correct for your engine.

Have no idea what jetting you have, please provide numbers. Note jetting may need vary depending on type of gasoline you use, oxygenated or not. Oxygenated fuel, alcohol blended fuel will cause lean running, hotter temps unless carb is altered to account for it.

if you have a dog house fan you MUST vent the engine bay better, else a closed non louvered lid cannot be used, else you starve the engine of air for both the carb and the fan. I know this first hand. If you dont take care of this, the engine at speed chokes, and fan cooling is reduced. you can try propping open the engine lid around an inch and test. a punctured tennis ball stabbed by the latch will be held in place and will prop the lid open. This is a MUST do thing for a dog house fanned motor in an early Bug with solid deck lid. Doing so solved my cooling and choked out engine issues.

for mixture, make sure the carb is adjusted correct, fuel pressure correct, check float bowl level, again check timing, back of if in doubt, make sure advance is not sticking use a timing light to see that.

Let us know.

Good Luck, Stay Cool, Bug On!

PS excess rolling friction can cause heat, make sure brake is not dragging, drive a it, with minimal braking, park and feel wheel rims, if they is hot, brake maybe dragging.
_________________
Help Prevent VW Engine Fires, see this link.....Engine safety wire information

Stop introducing dirt into your oil when adjusting valves ... https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=683022

[dickshadow]

Thanks for all the info so far. I’m definitely gonna fix the tins and other areas mentioned and go from there.

[fl59bug]

I would recommend you make sure the fan belt isn't slipping. Slipping belt will lack proper tension and have shiny spots. Whether or not that checks out, make an note of any work needed in that regard then take the fan belt, generator strap and fan shroud off and look inside the shroud for obstructions/debris. While you're there also verify the fan width as others have suggested.

With the shroud off you'll have visibility into the top side of the long block and can also verify there are no rodent nests/mud/etc covering the cylinders and head cooling fins.