Electric NOT pressure brake light switch

[HyDr0]

Going to see about using an electric switch on the pedal instead of the stock pressure switches on the master.
Has anyone done this?

Before I get slammed for doing something sooooo crazy let me say that I have been building these cars for over 20 years and Im far very far from being a purist.
I use german pressure switches and masters and I still find my self having to replace the switches far to often and Im done with it.

So...I am going to do this, and thought I would check and see if anyone else has done it before.

Any info / pics would be great.

Thanks
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-Will
1961 (o\ ! /o)

[Cusser]

Almost everything has been done before. This: I've thought of doing this, but I don't weld so I tossed the idea.

Brake switches that are electrical are of the "normally open" type, then as the brake is pushed down the spring releases and the switch "closes" the circuit. So I think one would need to weld an L-shaped bracket onto the brake pedal to mate with the switch and have a stationary bracket to hold the switch in place.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Buck Naked]

I don't remember where but I have seen a switch kit to do this conversion. Like was posted before it is a normally open (N/O) plunger switch that you will need. Check companies that supply parts for pedal assemblies and/or race car supply houses. This conversion has crossed my mind a few times. Good luck
Shane
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Be unique, like everyone else.
'63 Beetle Ragtop

[Culito]

I've done this before (back in high-school) and it worked fine...most of the time. I used a micro switch with a roller arm and a custom bracket.

Then I grew up!
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'64 standard w/2.0L type 4
'62 bug

[drs1023]

I'd be careful when welding anything in, on, under, around, or through the pedal. Hanging pedal assemblies lend themselves to easier fits such as the 60's muscle cars. These cars came with pressure switches, and you could convert to electric easily. Floor pedals are different. You don't want to put ANYTHING between the pedal and the floor. You never know when you will need all that travel during a semi-catastrophic failure.

It seems highly unlikely, and I am waiting on a breakdown at any moment, but my '63 still has the original switch on it - at least from the mid-70's since I am the only one who worked on the car my uncle bought new. When it quit working a couple of years ago, I took it off and cleaned it inside with carb cleaner, tested it, re-installed it, and it's still working.

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

1940's -1970's GM Lever Arm Brake switch.
Ugly as hell...but Highly modifiable...

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[fluxcap]

[Culito]

^^ That's pretty much what I did.
The problem was getting the switch adjusted just right so that it came on quickly and shut off every time.
It was a temporary fix because someone had tried to use a oil pressure sender in place of a brake light switch...
I guess I got lucky, because I found the right pressure switches (back then with my first bug and recently with my current VWs) that come on pretty much instantly. I can tell because I use a 3rd brake light that I can see in the back window.
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Copyright CJ Industries, Inc.
'64 standard w/2.0L type 4
'62 bug

[drs1023]

How did a single blade oil pressure sending unit work on the brakes?

[Culito]

[Cusser]

[dcarlson12]

I have no affiliation with this company but I bought and used their clutch pedal new design.
It works very well and their brake light switch probably also works well but I have no experience with it...

http://unique-parts.com/?wpsc-product=smart-brake-light-switch-assembly

[bluebus86]

should we not be talking mechanical verses hydraulic operated switches, rather than electric switches. In both cases the switch is "electric" one operated by a mechanical device (lever arm) and other by a hydraulic pressure sensor device.
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[GearHeadKeith]

On my own car, I found that my combination of modern 3-prong replacement brake light switches and 4-wheel disc brakes, my car needed a decent amount of pedal pressure to activate the brake lights. After having a few close-calls from nearly being rear-ended, I designed a bracket to mount a sealed electrical switch on the pedal assembly, behind the accelerator pedal. This switch is activated by depressing the brake pedal and is wired in parallel to the original hydraulic switches on the master cylinder. It is very similar to the set-up by fluxcap shown above. I’ve had it on my own vehicle since 2015.

As a move to help others with a similar problem, I worked with a local fab shop and the switch manufacturer to develop a kit for this pedal-activated brake light switch. These will fit 1958+ Volkswagen Type I, III, and Karmann Ghia using 12V electrical systems or 6V systems using LED bulbs. Please see my ad here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2140061

These kits are in stock and ready for shipment. I accept PayPal and ship USPS.
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1971 Super Beetle sedan, Shantung yellow with black interior. Cosmetically unrestored with over 366k miles.
1776cc: 9.2:1 compression, dual Weber 40DCN on Deano intakes, Primo Petrucci 40mm/36mm round-port heads, Crower VW284F cam, Kymco 1.5" exhaust
SSC trans with 3.78/2.25/1.48/1.04 & 4.12 Gleason R&P, Type IV output flanges, Berg Shifter
Topline front struts/springs/sway bar, Sway-a-Way rear bar, 4-wheel disc brakes
Owned since 1994: 3rd owner since new!

[bluebus86]

[herbie1200]

Sorry guys; the needed switch should be of "normally CLOSED" type (NC).

It means the switch itself, when no mechanic action on it, stays in the closed position and stop lights are on.

The switch shall be depressed by the pedal only when it returns in its idle position, turning off stop lights.

Often those swithches do not support more than 2-3 Amperes so in a 6V system it is good to use a relay to drive 6Ampere of stop lights.

My opinion: why to complicate an already working system? The mechanical switch is prone to vibration, corrosion, pedal misalignment, and you often will be with stoplights erratically on.

[fluxcap]

[bluebus86]

[Cusser]

[herbie1200]

I remain on my idea; pedal switch is a nice arrangement when pedal fulcrum is up and a switch can be placed in a safe position.

Plus our cars are not so performing in braking, related to modern cars, so a bunch of milliseconds before stop lights turn on should not compromise driving safety.