First stroker build 92X82

[mark tucker]

yes they will leek if the senders out.... and I also agree they heads need some chamber unshrouding if your running gasoline.

[67rustavenger]

Ok, so after the panic moment where I thought that the oil cooler burst.

I now have a running engine.
Not running good, but running. The engine ran through the cam break-in period of 20 minute at 2K rpm.
The thing sounds eval.

The current issue is a regular topic here. It runs on two cylinders. Go figure!
The difficult thing is that I can't start the engine and make back to the rear of the car before the engine dies.

Tonight I started it to move it to the garage. Once parked, I noticed that the 1-2 side exhaust pipes are cooler than the 3-4 side. I can touch the 1-2 side comfortably. While the 3-4 side, I can feel the heat from a couple of inches away.

The carbs are delivering fuel as witnessed by the pump squirts when I actuate the linkage.
So I rule out fuel delivery.
I checked that the spark plug leads are well connected. They are.

So that leaves me with a possible vacuum leak. I made my intake gaskets to match the ported heads and intake manifolds.
The web between the individual cylinder intake ports is quite narrow. So maybe the seal is broken between the cylinders or not properly sealing.

modok has mentioned Permatex 518 as a sealant more than a few times for intake manifolds. So I'd like to go that route. Problem is that it's not available locally.
So I ask. Is there an equivalent Permatex product that I can buy at O'Riellies?

Lastly, I had a jetting consult with John of AC.net. He has recommended different jetting than what I have on hand ATM.
I can wait for the new jets to arrive as I figure out the no idle issue.

Thank you all that have been supportive in this little adventure. Your help, knowledge and encouragement has been invaluable to me.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[j-dub]

Have you tried opening up the mixture screws on the 1-2 side further to see if that helps? A while back I put a mixed set of 36 DRLAs on my dads 1641 and one of them has to have the mixture screws way out before those cylinders will idle.
_________________
1957 Oval rag
"POLICE STATION TOILET STOLEN ... Cops have nothing to go on."

[Pruneman99]

Get one of these and start the car from the engine compartment.

[VW_Jimbo]

I have always had great sucess using Ultra Copper silicon sealant.

Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEOPA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_Jw88AbNZE32YW



I am currently using this sealant at my exhaust to head connections, as the gaskets are horrible. Working great!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[SRP1]

Sounds more like the 1-2 plug wires are switched, I know you said they are on tight, but are they in the correct positions?
If they are then spray a little brake cleaner down the carb, that cylinder should fire vacuum leak or not.
The only other possibility would be valves way out of adjustment.

[67rustavenger]

[67rustavenger]

So I turned the right carb mixture out screws quite a bit to get the cylinders to respond. Unfortunately the screws are almost all the way out and very wiggly.

The engine still runs like crap. Somethings not right with the right carb.

I have a set of 44 Weber IDF's that I can install in the mean time.
What I don't know is what would be a good base line jetting for these carbs based on the engine spec.
Also they are the older style with the roller wheel on the accel. pump. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.

So a little guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Have a happy Mothers Day. Call your Mom! Thank her for having you.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Pruneman99]

Have you tried switching the carbs side to side to see if the problem follows the carb?

Do you have an Ultrasonic cleaner?

[67rustavenger]

[mark tucker]

sync the carbs!!!!! and then tune them. how did you break it in like that?????????????dont forget to change your oil&filter and adjust the valves.

[67rustavenger]

[VW_Jimbo]

What is the carb doing? Which direction are the pops coming out of...the exhaust or the intake? Intake = jet too small, bump up one size and dial in again and listen. Popping out the exhaust is too rich, bump down one size, reset basics and listen.
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[67rustavenger]

So I have had this engine running for a couple of weeks now.

I have fixed what I believe are vacuum leaks at the intake to head sealing surface with Permatex 518. That helped.
But the engine just will not hold an idle once warmed up. So I have to pedal it at traffic lights to keep it from dying.

Current jetting, EMPI 45 D-Series,
Idle jets are a measured 60 - Micro Drilled by Me
Air correction jets are 180 - Dellorto
Main jets are 162 - EMPI
emulsion tube .2 - EMPI

The engine just will not accelerate smoothly from a stop while running on the idle jets. It stumbles like it's out of sync. But the sync is spot on.

Once it gets into the progression circuit things smooth out a bit.
Then once the mains come into play the engine falls flat on it's face.
I can lightly pedal through the mains. But if I have to stab the throttle the engine does not respond for a few seconds.

When the air correction jets and the mains are working together. The engine rips.

It runs rough like there are clogged idle jets every few days. I blow them out with compressed air and it will run good not great for an evening. Then the next day. It's back to stumbling like clogged idle jets again.

Any idea's?
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[VW_Jimbo]

Lucky! Your engine is running!

Try adjusting the valves again. What kind of pushrod do you have? I adjust Chromolly push rods to loose zero, hot. The valve lash will change alot for the first 1000 miles. Get in the habit of adjusting them anytime you think something is off.

Also you might want to try going up a couple sizes on the idle jet and see how it responds. Sounds lean to me. Every engine is different, in how it breathes and how it swirls in the chamber, so it is not a one size fits all. You got to play with them!

And dont forget to check your timing everytime you change anything at the carbs. Make sure your fuel pressure is right. Those air corrections sound too small. But I am no expert.

For what its worth, old Webers are the best!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[modok]

If you think it's clogged, trace the passages and unclog and re-drill as necessary.
If it's lean put in bigger jets until it isn't. May not be right but it will give you more clues to find out what's going on.

I think you are putting too much confidence in the china carb. May be better off to just pretend it isn't a dellorto, because it isn't. Maybe a dellorto can run 36 vents(or whatever it has, I don't know), but if they didn't get the boosters cast as clean maybe that's not so.
Maybe a dellorto can run 60 idle jets but if they have eliminated the mixing well and put the air bleed in the holder then maybe these can't.

I try to never run unknown carbs on a new engine.
Won't idle....? You don't know if it's the engine or the carb. I think it's the carb tho. It's hard to clean the passage from the main well to the idle jets. You will have to take them off, hold them upside down and really blow back and forth through there. use a poece of welding wire with a small 90 degree bend on the end to go down the main well and find that hole that feeds the idle and hook in there and wiggle, make sure there are no burrs. Ultra-solic my ass. You need more like roto-rooter.

[modok]

Make sure the vents and boosters are in correctly (not upside down)
Humans are always putting them in backward..... there are humans in china too!!

[67rustavenger]

[67rustavenger]

[67rustavenger]

Well, It looks like the engine needs to come out and be torn down.
I drove the car to the PNW Bug Run yesterday. On the trip down. The engine began belching blue smoke out the exhaust.

Before this happened. It didn't burn any oil. But on the drive home (nursing it all the way) I had to stop twice and add a half qrt. + of oil. On left turns is when the blue smoke is present. So I suspect that there's something up with either the valve guides or a stuck/Broken piston ring on the 1-2 side.
I'm running stock valve covers. Not the aluminum ones pictured earlier in this thread.

Oil pressure was Normal for this engine at 10lb per 1K rpm.

Before I tear it down. I'll do a leak down and compression test and see what's going on.
I've never done a leak down test before. So I'll have questions on the results once I get this completed.

Before I start in on this. I have to get a friends 66 back together and out of my driveway.

Oh well!
It was fun for sure. Plenty of power. and real easy to drive once I sorted the carbs.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!