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heywebonya
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am having a similar issue (self-inflicted - I moved the distributor drive during reassembly). My distributor drive gear is ~ 90 deg out of sync.

Q: Does the notch needs to be at TDC regardless of type of of dizzy? I have tried to align the #1 wire with the TDC and rotor while the points were just closing. I am not getting any stuble or start even with starting fluid. I have a spark (I am cheating and using the crappy see through cap for troubleshooting)

Then I put the correct wires to match where the cylinders / distributor are aligned.

-Jeff
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mcmscott
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ever noticed the oil hole in the dist.? Ever wondered where it should line up in the case? Ever looked in the drive hole in the case and noticed the hole that lets oil get to the distributor? Things that make you go hmmm.
Strange that those that say it doesn't matter are also saying you have to run a t-stat even in tropic conditions
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heywebonya
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, I was optimistic at 90 deg offset, it is more like 120 deg.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The problem comes in with the vaccuum advance gets in the way. I would like to move the distributor mark to align with the rotor (dashed arrow) but there is not enough room because of the intake.

Do I pull the drive gear and move it? (seems like a recipe for lost shims)

or should I remove the dizzy and move the drive dog 180 deg? There is sufficient room and would work.

Thoughts?

Jeff
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thebayfromak
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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

heywebonya wrote:
Okay, I was optimistic at 90 deg offset, it is more like 120 deg.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The problem comes in with the vaccuum advance gets in the way. I would like to move the distributor mark to align with the rotor (dashed arrow) but there is not enough room because of the intake.

Do I pull the drive gear and move it? (seems like a recipe for lost shims)

or should I remove the dizzy and move the drive dog 180 deg? There is sufficient room and would work.

Thoughts?

Jeff


Reviving this old thread!

I have the same issue as above, I have a '74 Bus with a '79 FI. I can't time the Bus correctly because the Cold Start Valve gets in the way and the can on the DVDA distributor won't allow me to turn it anymore. Basically the CSV blocks the can from rotating and I cant time the engine.

Can I adjust the drive gear to make this work?
What possible implications could I have from adjusting the drive gear?

Joe
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heywebonya
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 7:25 am    Post subject: Re: drive gear Reply with quote

Just move the plug wires 90 or 180 degrees. This will enable you to turn the base.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 11:34 am    Post subject: Re: drive gear Reply with quote

wow the ex spurts are crawling out of the would work Shocked this is some funny stuff.
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heywebonya
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 11:43 am    Post subject: Re: drive gear Reply with quote

Since Mark tucker is so helpful with "wow the ex spurts are crawling out of the would work Shocked this is some funny stuff" comment. (Mark is a Snarky Turd)

The best method is to carefully move the drive gear without dropping the shims into the case.

The alternate method is to align the distributor body with the vacuum advance in the normal position, move the crank to static timing position, and then place the wires starting with #1 nearest the rotor (slight adjustment may be needed).

- Jeff
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thebayfromak
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 2:30 pm    Post subject: Re: drive gear Reply with quote

heywebonya wrote:
Just move the plug wires 90 or 180 degrees. This will enable you to turn the base.


It actually wouldn't work that way. Literally no room for adjustment to point the rotor directly at a wire.

The range of motion as it is currently is basically between two plug wires.

Also, thanks for the info about lifting the gear out. That'll probably be the way to go.
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mcmscott
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 3:11 pm    Post subject: Re: drive gear Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
wow the ex spurts are crawling out of the would work Shocked this is some funny stuff.


Exactly!!! Instead of fixing it correct the ex perts have all the other ways. How about just install the dist. drive correctly?
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thebayfromak
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 4:01 pm    Post subject: Re: drive gear Reply with quote

mcmscott wrote:
mark tucker wrote:
wow the ex spurts are crawling out of the would work Shocked this is some funny stuff.


Exactly!!! Instead of fixing it correct the ex perts have all the other ways. How about just install the dist. drive correctly?


The sarcasm really wasn't beneficial to anyone here and I'm pretty sure no one claimed to be an expert.

The distributor drive is actually already installed correctly. However, that still would not allow me to time engine correctly as you might have read from my post. I do have enough room between the CSV and the engine block to rotate the DVDA dustributor can to time it. I also cannot just swap the plugs on the cap because the range of rotation on the distributor will not allow the rotor to point directly at a spark plug wire on the cap.

If you're going to give other people crap, you might as well pose a solution to the problem because if not, you're not doing anyone any good.
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mcmscott
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 4:22 pm    Post subject: Re: drive gear Reply with quote

thebayfromak wrote:
mcmscott wrote:
mark tucker wrote:
wow the ex spurts are crawling out of the would work Shocked this is some funny stuff.


Exactly!!! Instead of fixing it correct the ex perts have all the other ways. How about just install the dist. drive correctly?


The sarcasm really wasn't beneficial to anyone here and I'm pretty sure no one claimed to be an expert.

The distributor drive is actually already installed correctly. However, that still would not allow me to time engine correctly as you might have read from my post. I do have enough room between the CSV and the engine block to rotate the DVDA dustributor can to time it. I also cannot just swap the plugs on the cap because the range of rotation on the distributor will not allow the rotor to point directly at a spark plug wire on the cap.

If you're going to give other people crap, you might as well pose a solution to the problem because if not, you're not doing anyone any good.


The solution is, install the drive correctly. If it was correct you would not be having this problem, or has this been a problem since 1979?
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 4:23 pm    Post subject: Re: drive gear Reply with quote

Quote:
I have the same issue as above, I have a '74 Bus with a '79 FI. I can't time the Bus correctly because the Cold Start Valve gets in the way and the can on the DVDA distributor won't allow me to turn it anymore. Basically the CSV blocks the can from rotating and I cant time the engine.


So your photo isn't a photo of what you have? I see a carburetor Wink

Never thought I'd suggest this...sounds like you need a 009 distributor.
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 4:31 pm    Post subject: Re: drive gear Reply with quote

I'm trying to work out the movement in my head..

Try

Remove the distributor drive dog and install it 180 out. That should put number #1 at the 2 o'clock position and leave room for the vacuum can.

Worth a shot. Will only take 5 minutes to try.
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 4:55 pm    Post subject: Re: drive gear Reply with quote

runamoc wrote:
Quote:
I have the same issue as above, I have a '74 Bus with a '79 FI. I can't time the Bus correctly because the Cold Start Valve gets in the way and the can on the DVDA distributor won't allow me to turn it anymore. Basically the CSV blocks the can from rotating and I cant time the engine.


So your photo isn't a photo of what you have? I see a carburetor Wink

Never thought I'd suggest this...sounds like you need a 009 distributor.


I think I'll need the vacuum advance but here's two pictures of the range of motion I have. To time it correctly, the can basically has to sit where the CSV is. The entire range doesn't allow the rotor to point at a spark plug wire when at TDC.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 7:40 pm    Post subject: Re: drive gear Reply with quote

thebayfromak wrote:
runamoc wrote:
Quote:
I have the same issue as above, I have a '74 Bus with a '79 FI. I can't time the Bus correctly because the Cold Start Valve gets in the way and the can on the DVDA distributor won't allow me to turn it anymore. Basically the CSV blocks the can from rotating and I cant time the engine.


So your photo isn't a photo of what you have? I see a carburetor Wink

Never thought I'd suggest this...sounds like you need a 009 distributor.


I think I'll need the vacuum advance but here's two pictures of the range of motion I have. To time it correctly, the can basically has to sit where the CSV is. The entire range doesn't allow the rotor to point at a spark plug wire when at TDC.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



You should try and install the dist. drive correctly, it is really simple.
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 11:05 am    Post subject: Re: drive gear Reply with quote

mcmscott wrote:
thebayfromak wrote:
runamoc wrote:
Quote:
I have the same issue as above, I have a '74 Bus with a '79 FI. I can't time the Bus correctly because the Cold Start Valve gets in the way and the can on the DVDA distributor won't allow me to turn it anymore. Basically the CSV blocks the can from rotating and I cant time the engine.


So your photo isn't a photo of what you have? I see a carburetor Wink

Never thought I'd suggest this...sounds like you need a 009 distributor.


I think I'll need the vacuum advance but here's two pictures of the range of motion I have. To time it correctly, the can basically has to sit where the CSV is. The entire range doesn't allow the rotor to point at a spark plug wire when at TDC.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



You should try and install the dist. drive correctly, it is really simple.


It is. Set 12 degrees, not 180 backwards.
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mcmscott
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 11:28 am    Post subject: Re: drive gear Reply with quote

thebayfromak wrote:
mcmscott wrote:
thebayfromak wrote:
runamoc wrote:
Quote:
I have the same issue as above, I have a '74 Bus with a '79 FI. I can't time the Bus correctly because the Cold Start Valve gets in the way and the can on the DVDA distributor won't allow me to turn it anymore. Basically the CSV blocks the can from rotating and I cant time the engine.


So your photo isn't a photo of what you have? I see a carburetor Wink

Never thought I'd suggest this...sounds like you need a 009 distributor.


I think I'll need the vacuum advance but here's two pictures of the range of motion I have. To time it correctly, the can basically has to sit where the CSV is. The entire range doesn't allow the rotor to point at a spark plug wire when at TDC.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



You should try and install the dist. drive correctly, it is really simple.


It is. Set 12 degrees, not 180 backwards.


Never said it was backwards, obviously it is off by a tooth. It is not correct or you would not be having this problem.
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 12:38 pm    Post subject: Re: drive gear Reply with quote

Im sorry, I dont have the special tool either I just use a set of snap ring pliers., but I usually install it right for my application witch isant your application. but the comment about the rotor triggering the spark event had me rolling on the floor trying not to bust any stitches in my side. and yes it's a good idea to install it right. some are very eazy to re doo ,some arnt.my first vw had the arnt gear in it. but it can be done. as for the shims....Ive never had any issue with those either.pull them out with a maggot stick then use a screwen driver to reinstall them down in the hole.dont try to put them on the shaft they will eff up the brass gear real nicely. some cases seem to line up with the oil hole some dont...I think its a dribble/vent hole,(no vent +no oil can get in..or out if it does get in, so it dosent push oil up to the pointy thingys.) but it should be oriented toward the split...no not that split the case split. I aint no ex spurt, but I can spell VW.
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 1:59 pm    Post subject: Re: drive gear Reply with quote

There are 12 teeth on the dist drive gear, so it would move 30 degrees if moved 1 tooth. There is a very real possibility of dropping the washers inside the case if the dist drive gear is removed. Its a crap shoot at best
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