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How to adjust heat diverter / heat distribution valve cable
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surfbus23
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 5:15 pm    Post subject: Re: How to adjust heat diverter / heat distribution valve cable Reply with quote

This one officially has me stumped. I can't seem to get this to work. I've got the cable unhooked and my lever goes up all the way nicely. I then hop under the bus and do exactly as eche_bus describes. Everything looks nice. However, once I move the lever down I can no longer push it back up. It just gets all this resistance. Any thoughts on what I'm missing here?

Done this 4 or 5 times. Tried different attachment points. I keep getting too much resistance for the lever to hold. Tightening up the bolt would just make the levers impossible to move.

EDIT: I tightened down the bolt at the levers for more resistance. Seems to be the trick. I wasn't sure how much drag these levers were supposed to have. Can anyone confirm that they have a decent amount of drag? The blue one seems to be able to have a more smooth movement. Not as much to overcome as the springs in the diverter I guess.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 5:50 pm    Post subject: Re: How to adjust heat diverter / heat distribution valve cable Reply with quote

How to adjust the cable
1. Push the dash lever all the way up. Now get back under the bus.
2. Insert the cable jacket retaining clip into the hole in the diverter valve control arm, placing the cable under it, but don't snap it down.
3. Pull the valve control arm toward the rear of the bus, pulling against the spring tension, all the way to the travel limit.
4. Push on the cable jacket so the ball stop at the tip of the boot sits right up against that hidden metal flange/tab the cable wire goes through at the top of the valve.
5. Press the retaining clip down to snap in place, securing the cable.
6. Go back up inside the bus and move that dash lever midway down.
7. Crawl back under the bus and marvel that the control valve arm has moved all the way to the other end of travel!
8. Go back up inside the bus. Move that arm all the way down to Defrost. Note that it doesn't jam or bind.

3. Pull the valve control arm toward the rear of the bus, pulling against the spring tension, all the way to the travel limit.
Is it the spring tension of the Control arm pushing the lever back up and the control lever will not stay in the down position?
Is the spring to strong?
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surfbus23
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 5:56 pm    Post subject: Re: How to adjust heat diverter / heat distribution valve cable Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
How to adjust the cable
3. Pull the valve control arm toward the rear of the bus, pulling against the spring tension, all the way to the travel limit.
Is it the spring tension of the Control arm pushing the lever back up and the control lever will not stay in the down position?
Is the spring to strong?


I think it was the tension of the spring. What I don't understand though is why if I had the cable unhooked I could move the lever to the UP position and then attach it with the rear diverter open. For some reason being in the UP position and then hooked up it could resist the spring but once I moved it out of the UP position it would no longer retain the UP position. I settled on adding a lot more resistance to the levers. Still a strange occurrence.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 8:06 pm    Post subject: Re: How to adjust heat diverter / heat distribution valve cable Reply with quote

Take a look at the flaps. If I am getting this right?

Heat distribution lever up: Front and rear foot wells fully open.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Heat distribution lever in the middle: Only front foot wells open.
Left flap should be open - Right flap should be closed
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Heat distribution lever down: Oulets below the window open / Front and rear foot wells closed
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The cable step goes through the little hole.
The rust colored ball is pushed home against the little hole.
The lever is twisted against the spring tension.
The cable housing is clamped down in this position.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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Busload
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 11:10 am    Post subject: Re: How to adjust heat diverter / heat distribution valve cable Reply with quote

Help. I am in the process of getting the Heat diverter/heat distribution valve control Cables working again on my two 1973 buses. As usual, the red dash slide control does not work because the Cable going from front of bus to the Diverter control is extremely hard to move. I do not see anyone discussing the actual replacement of this roughly 9' cable. Why not? Can I make a replacement cable from a longer heater control cable or does someone know how to make the original cable wire travel for easily through the cable itself?
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 11:48 am    Post subject: Re: How to adjust heat diverter / heat distribution valve cable Reply with quote

My primary desire to have heat in my bus is for when I need the windows cleared. Once they are cleared, sending heat to the windshield and driver/passenger feet would be second.

It's ambitious to think about providing heat to the rest of the cab in any meaningful way, plus I almost never have passengers in the back (like im sure is the case for most of us.) If I have passengers in the back, it's summer and I don't need heat.

That said, I have done the Bluemaxx blower install in mine and it works GREAT. When I need the windows cleared quickly and not 10 minutes AFTER I start driving, I just crank the Bluemaxx on and it takes care of it in no time.

Next I think im going to just pull the cables so the heat is only going to the front seat area and close those vents nice and tightly with some aluminum tape or whatever hackey thing I can come up with at the time I craw under there again.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 12:09 pm    Post subject: Re: How to adjust heat diverter / heat distribution valve cable Reply with quote

Busload wrote:
Help. I am in the process of getting the Heat diverter/heat distribution valve control Cables working again on my two 1973 buses. As usual, the red dash slide control does not work because the Cable going from front of bus to the Diverter control is extremely hard to move. I do not see anyone discussing the actual replacement of this roughly 9' cable. Why not? Can I make a replacement cable from a longer heater control cable or does someone know how to make the original cable wire travel for easily through the cable itself?


I agree with airkooledchris, with an otherwise stock system there just isn't enough heat to heat the entire bus, so you might as well run it all up front. If you really want lots of heat read about all the mods I did, it is all in the Blumaxx thread.
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Busload
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 3:25 pm    Post subject: Re: How to adjust heat diverter / heat distribution valve cable Reply with quote

Thanks for the responses about in-line fans etc. However, I am trying to see if I can get the stock heat diverter control system back to stock. What I need is advice by someone who has replaced (or fixed) the original approx. 8-9 foot cable that goes from lower dash of bus to the lever that controls the heat distribution valve on the pipe bringing warm air up from the heater boxes.
Thanks.
Richard
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 5:58 pm    Post subject: Re: How to adjust heat diverter / heat distribution valve cable Reply with quote

Busload wrote:
Thanks for the responses about in-line fans etc. However, I am trying to see if I can get the stock heat diverter control system back to stock. What I need is advice by someone who has replaced (or fixed) the original approx. 8-9 foot cable that goes from lower dash of bus to the lever that controls the heat distribution valve on the pipe bringing warm air up from the heater boxes.
Thanks.
Richard


If you can find one for sale it shouldn't be hard to replace. You might also be able to remove your old one and get so oil down inside the sheath so it would work easier. But as we said there really isn't enough heat to go around unless you are only trying to make the cab comfortable at a 60 ambient.
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