How poorly should a split drive?

[mdvanderploeg]

I know it's a subjective question, but I've never driven another one, so have nothing to compare it to. I've been driving my 1950 quite a bit lately (all original with radial tires), & have to say that it's all over the road! In 4th gear, it's pretty tough to keep it between the lines.

The oldest car I've driven up to this point was my 1957 Austin Healey, which didn't exactly ride on rails either. Just trying to figure out if I have a problem or if this is normal.

[KTPhil]

Is it stock height, or lowered? Stock rims and tires? Changes often screw with proper alignment.

If stock, check for mechanical issues. Loose wheel bearings, tie rods, king/link pins, steering gear adjustment or wear, tire pressures (18 front, 24 rear for starters), alignment (front AND rear).

Properly maintained and in stock form, they should drive just fine other than (1) crosswinds, (2) undulating roads, or (3) S-turns.

[DDub]

Alignment done properly.

[oldsplitvw]

All over the road? Not that poorly by far. I put 7,000km on my stock 11G, in 4th gear I would have it up to 102-105km/hr and it would track straight, could hold the wheel steady with one finger. I have used Excelsior bias ply tube tires on all my splits.

Will

[Blue Baron]

It should track as well as any other Volkswagen.

If the alignment has been checked, the link pins and wheel bearings are tight, and the steering box adjusted properly, and the car still appears to "hunt," and has trouble tracking in a straight line, consider adding a set of caster shims. This has solved the issue for many Volkswagens.

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[oldsplitvw]

Agree with above. Invest in getting the front end done right; you can't put a price on safety

Will

[mdvanderploeg]

Thanks, guys, sounds like I have some work to do. Everything is stock, including ride height. All suspension and steering components were replaced or refurbished. It's running stock rims...16 x 3.5.. I'm fairly certain rear end alignment was not performed, so I'll start there.

With all of the work that's been completed, I expected a much more stable ride. I had a '65 in college that I'd drive from St. Pete, Florida to Clemson, SC, no problem. From what everyone's saying, it appears that the 1950 should at least be similar.

[Lind]

Tire pressure should be 20 up front and 30 in the back. Any stock bug will handle much worse with incorrect tire pressures.
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[oldsplitvw]

Also check the steering box, it is crucial that the tension on the worm gear is adjusted correctly or it will also cause the wandering you describe

Will

[scottyrocks]

[rod_vw]

Tyre pressures quoted in the '46 manual are 17psi front and 23psi rear although I must admit I run my car at 17 - 26. I've always run Type 1 cars at something similar.

The only thing that effects the handling are tracks from heavy vehicles in the roadway when the car will try to follow which ever it fancies at the time.
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[mdvanderploeg]

I have the tire pressures set per the 1950 manual, which was a big improvement over where the tire shop had them set (33 psi all around....yikes!).

Can rear alignment be performed on these early cars? I thought the slotted end plates came out later. I was under the car earlier & didn't see where an adjustment could be made, but maybe I missed it.

Will mess with steering box adjustment some more & see what that does for me.

Thanks again.

[Ovally]

""Can rear alignment be performed on these early cars?""

Normally not necessary, but in case of a large deviation this can be done.
See page 59 "Einstellung der Hinterräder" https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/repair_man...itel_H.pdf
The slotted end plates came later.
Have you renewed the spring plate bushings, inner and outer?
These will make a lot of difference the way your car handles.

Regards.

[KoKane]

Check front end and align it. My 52 rides just as straight as my 59 and 65. Shouldn't be all over the road.

[nlorntson]

Any dry or worn out front end parts? Have you greased your king pins with the tires off the ground?

[Ivan Fuller]

Its been a long time since I did this but I thought rear toe in can be adjusted with shims at the front of the transmission - isnt there something in the factory maunual?

[Ovally]

[ZENVWDRIVER]

... you have a lot of checking to do...
I sure enjoyed driving my two 1950s and early 1952 splits with 325 x 16 nylons and tubes, sometimes double or even triple clutching the non syncro trans, when changing gears, the musical, whining transaxle... were features that made it just about as primitive as a car could get... really was a great 35 to 40 mph car.,.. 165 x 15 XAS Michelins were better, back in the early 80s, but I liked the stock skinnys best... just take it slower and enjoy...
... just be thankful for the experience... you lucky-duck...
... you might be expecting too much.
Our '55 was all-over-the-road... needed a steering box and tie rod ends, probably from the silly fat tires and wide mags on the car... now with stock smoothies...
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[racoguy]

Another very important point is to center the steering box, this is probably the most cruicial part before doing any front end alignment.
If there are no marks on the box input shaft you will have to turn lock to lock and as accurately as possible mark the center position.
from there adjust the steering box play and then install your steering wheel in the straight ahead position, with this reference point now you can align the front end.
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[Blue Baron]

I hate to sound like a broken record, but caster shims was what the factory used to fix just this problem. It adds more caster to the front end, meaning the car returns to a straight line more easily, like the front wheels on a shopping cart. I put them in a '63 that used to "hunt" (stock height), and now it goes dead straight down the road. They're cheap and easy to install between the bottom axle tube and the frame head.

I also agree with the suggestion by nlorntson to be sure the front end is well greased, because the link pins and kingpins can bind up.
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We are striving for perfection, to make our cars run forever, if possible.

Heinz Nordhoff