1600 in a rush!

[balljoint]

Hello Samba!
As you can see I have not posted much mostly due to the fact that I didn't have a beetle but was in search of one and had been browsing just to get general overall knowledge.

Turns out I got a 65 beetle but with a AE 1600 DP locked engine, and while I have basic knowledge of the engine I am overwhelmed as the parts and combinations are endless when it comes to rebuild, and to make it worse I am traveling to the US next week so it leaves me just a few days to order the parts to get them shipped in time for me to pick up.

So...I will be talking to the engine builder in detail tomorrow but I need your suggestions as he has already told me that the no.4 cylinder was seized and the case had been already line bored but looked ok so I'm guessing new case and pistons and jugs are in order.

My plan is to keep it simple and go back with a stock 1600 and and maybe add dual carbs to it later on.Machine work here is a big no no...hence one the reasons to keep it 1600.

Now I'm from the Caribbean so its always hot here, there's always traffic and the car has ac so heat is a major concern. Also the car had a non dog house type shroud so that will need to be upgraded as well.

I need suggestions on the following:
1) Case type and where to get it
2) Hardware kit for new case
3) Pistons and jugs
4) Crank or if to use back same
5) Bearings
6) whatever else I have forgotten

I will let him check the condition of the heads and see what needs to be done.
I was thinking stock AS41 magnesium case, AA pistons and jugs with grant rings but that's all I have so far

Can I increase the displacement by adding a stroker crank but keep the case bore to stock 85.5mm?

[Pruneman99]

You could drop in a stroker crank. Im currently building a 1745cc 76x85.5 engine.

However, I wouldn't recommend it. If your in a rush, and can't get machine work done, stick to the stock 1600 size. KISS

Are you trying order all the parts for delivery to a US address, and pick them up while you're here? How are you going to transport them home? Might just be easier to have a long block shipped complete to your address.

Give us a bit more detail of what your working with, and what you're trying to accomplish.

[balljoint]

Yeah...I saw your build thread.
And yes, my plan is to have the parts shipped to an address in the US for me to collect and transport via suitcase. A mag case split in half cant be that heavy

Just want a reliable engine that will hold up well to the extreme heat and dont have to interfere with for a while!....I have other cars to go fast!

Oh...and fuel here is a concern too...best we have is 95ron.

[modok]

A large shop like mofoco, may be able to set you up with a kit of parts that fit together with no fuss. I can't see it working any other way. There is always waiting for parts, or the parts that arrive are not right. The only way to turn it around in a week is if you already had all the parts in hand.

Aircooled.net ships VERY FAST, and stocks most items too.

[bugguy1967]

A crankcase can be line-bored several times. If the engine is locked from rust/water, it can likely be reconditioned. If it seized from oil starvation, it likely can't because the center mains get warped.

[bugguy1967]

[Pruneman99]

Apart from tearing down a running engine (or at least an assembled long block) I don't think there is any way it's possible to order all the parts, and assemble later without fitment issues and/or machine work.

Hell I'm going to order a 3rd set of cam bearings for my build. Aftermarket parts are all over the place in quality control. Almost every single part will need inspection, and possible alterations to make it work right. Some brand new parts end up in the trash bin before they ever see service.

If I had one shot at getting all the parts, I'd call a REPUTABLE builder and purchase a long block. Then I'd carfully disassemble it and mark everything for position and pack it up.

Are the shipping/import taxes so high that this makes sense? Are there no machine shops that could check and recondition your existing parts?

What do you NEED? Everything? What's good or reusable on the current engine?

[mikedjames]

Before stripping it down the only parts you can be 100% sure need replacing are the pistons and cylinders, based on your description so far.

If there is oil amd not water in the crank case it may well need very little work beyond the pistons and cylinders.

I know you are in a hurry.

In a hurry I would get a new longblock and fan shroud shipped as most other options will need more parts than you bought in a hurry.
_________________
Ancient vehicles and vessels

1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.

1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
1973 wooden Pacer sailing dinghy

[balljoint]

So the mechanic says the case can be reused as everything spins smooth, no excessive clearances and bearings look good with no signs of low oil pressure or anything like that.
The main culprit was no.4 piston as stated

So ill be getting some AA 1600 drop ins
https://aapistons.com/collections/vw-piston-liner-...linder-kit

Is this the correct kit?
Can some one point me in the direction of the Grant rings I need to use for this?

[Pruneman99]

http://carcraftstore.com/grantpistonringsets855-94mm.aspx

Just make sure to select the 85.5 size in the drop down menu

Verify that the pistons take the 2x2x5mm rings