Trunk handle release.

[Frodge]

I have a 1970 beetle where you release the handle on club from the glove box. I’ve ouled the mechanism and it works fine. I have no experience with these, but it seems stiff. Is there a way to either have a safety cable somewhere in case it breaks at the glove box? How about, even better, a handle with a simple lock on it with a key?

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=692980&highlight=
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1973 Standard Beetle
1600DP AK case
Solex 34PICT3 Carb
Bosch DVDA 205AJ Distributor

[VW_Jimbo]

There is an alternative. It is what has been used since I first started wrenching. First, go buy a new handle. Now save that for later. Then, cut a 2 inch segment out of the handle, where it is easily cut through. Then unscrew the remaining end pieces of the handle. Use a little upward pressure, keeping the bolts from turning. That will leave you with a hood with no handle, but open. Now repair the cable, then install the new handle.
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Frodge]

I’m not understanding. Or can’t picture what you’re saying Jimbo....

Are you talking about the factory procedure?

[Cusser]

Jimbo is talking about what to do if cable breaks. Original poster is asking about a second, supplemental cable to have as an alternative to cutting the handle, etc.

I have supplemental hood cables on mine.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

You can check out this one too TX-73 was working on the same thing:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7344446&highlight=case#7344446
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1973 Standard Beetle
1600DP AK case
Solex 34PICT3 Carb
Bosch DVDA 205AJ Distributor

[Eric&Barb]

When cable breaks, the latch is designed to open automatically as long as the latch and catch are setup properly.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[busman78]

What? That is a first, if that was the case why does everybody cut the handle to get the hood open?

[Frodge]

Yeah. How do we know if it’s set up and adjusted properly?

[Frodge]

[Eric&Barb]

Latch is built with three positions, open, closed, open. With the hood lock pin adjusted properly a shove downward takes the friction pressure off the latch and it pops to the op[en position. Having the hood lock pin adjusted properly also makes for a cable that is much easier to pull the latch open.

As to why folks just start cutting, most often is because they find reading up on how it works is too hard for them. So instead first step is to pull out the ax... Had a very smart Step Father that could not for love or money read instructions, his mind just did not work that way. He had to be shown how to for everything, but then got the hang of it quickly and could improve on steps to do the project.

From the VW Official Service Manual 1966-69, section 8 Body Frame, part 3 :

"The front hood lock is designed to unlatch if the cable breaks. Ordinarily the latch holds the pin on the hood bracket when the hood is closed, but in the event of a cable break the latch springs back automatically (E&B edit here, when pressure is put down on the handle). The pin is then freed, and the hood can be opened. This arrangement calls for the exercise of some care in fitting the cable."

As to how to adjust properly, suggest opening up your copy of the VW Official Service Manual. If you do not have one, get one ASAP! If you have problems getting it all figured out, then will be happy to help talk you thru.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Frodge]

I have one, I’ll check it out. Thanks.

[Frodge]

Mine seems to be ok according to the Bentley. I am missing two screws from the latch mechanism in the glove compartment. Anyone know where they can be sourced?

I don’t understand how th latch works. I’m having brain freeze.

To me, when you pull the latch in the compartment downward, you are pulling the cable more taught, which releases the latching mechanism in the hood, by opening that hole larger. If the cable breaks, how does it release the latch on the hood end? I don’t get it.

[Eric&Barb]

[sshulk]

[Cusser]

Hood latch closed, backlit

Hood latch open, cable pulled, backlit

The attachment of the cable/adjustment of the cable tightness, is through the hole in the lower right of above photos with a #2 Phillips screwdriver.

Here's how I secured things to my replacement glove box (1971 VW)

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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Frodge]

I get it now! Thanks for the pictures and full explanations! So basically, you would only need to cut the handle of the mechanism in the trunk was binding....

Cusser, that replacement box you have, does that hardware come with the cable that attaches the conduit to the box? Or is that something that you bought and concocted from a hardware store?

[Frodge]

Ever since I owned my bug, I don’t like how hard the tension is on the lever to get it open. Opens fine, but you need to exert a lot of force to open it.

Anyone know how to make that lever more smooth and easy to open?

[Cusser]

[Frodge]

Also, the lever mechanism that is in the glove box. When you pull on that, what prevents it from ripping the fiberboard box? Is that lever seated against something in the trunk side?