still having trouble with axcleration

[mini t]

ok heres what i have stock 1600 single port with 30/31 205 dizzy duel canons . i've set the valves have electronic set the timing per hot spark ins but can't seem to get it not stumble on take off from idle new rebuilt carb only 2 year ago. any help would be great thanks in advance

[67rustavenger]

[mini t]

it runs good except for from idle take off cannons have heat risers atached to manifold

[modok]

A picture of the setup would be handy.
Changing the exhaust, changing the air filter, and putting a different model carburetor on the engine than it was supposed to have, all may require jetting changes. Although, that does not mean changing the jetting is the best fix. you can adjust the carburetor to work with the engine, OR, you can adjust the engine to work with the carburetor.
Most carburetor problems are not carburetor related.

[Slow 1200]

what distributor are you running? most 30/31s end up running better with centrifugal distributors in my experience

[mini t]

this is what i'm running k&n air filter that you can't see

[nextgen]

Single Stock Carb, reminds me of the first Empi Extractor bought in 1969. Put on my brand new 1969 bug. It was doing the same thing.

Empi said did you use the larger main Jet we sent with the exhaust??

What main jet?? Luck I did not throw out the box. it was a 130 main jet.

In those days, ha, extractors came with main jets.

Instantly fixed the problem, the exhaust made the engine run lean.
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[k-weaver]

Might be a dumb question but i'm gonna ask anyway...Are the heat risers in the exhaust drilled out? I know the EMPI headers that come with the heat risers are plugged.

Sounds like it could also be a jetting issue.

[Q-Dog]

That distributor may not like the vacuum signal from that carb. The 30/31 is not an exact copy of any stock VW carb, so the vacuum ports are not layed out the same. I have not had a reason to test one, but I have heard that the angled lower port on the back of the carb (with the yellow cap on your photo) may have a vacuum signal that is better suited to the distributor you are running.

Of course, you could use a vacuum gauge to test if the port is providing the correct vacuum signal. You could also use a timing light to see if the distributor is advancing correctly. Or you could just switch the vacuum line over to that port and see if it runs better.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
_________________
Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[mini t]

heat risers are drilled going to check jet size today and try the other vac port

[[email protected]]

that distributor is connected to the wrong port on the carb.
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[Frank Bassman]

If this is a 30/31 carb, test both ports carefully. The angled bottom port works for SVDA distributors. (Tested this myself, it is ported vacuum)

The side port has worked for me with SVA, NON centrifugal distributors such as the one shown in the picture. It is a much weaker signal than the bottom one because the diaphragm works with much less vacuum than an svda.

The bottom port will cause immediate max advance when the throttle opens.

Clean your idle jet.

-Frank

[mini t]

what port should it be on

[[email protected]]

appears to be a SVSA distributor (vacuum only), which should be MAP not ported vacuum. But i'm old and my eyes may be deceiving me. Left port is correct for SVDA.

What is the distributor #?
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[mini t]

205t

[nsracing]

Make sure you are on the proper port for the vacuum advance. Make sure the advance is actually working - apply vacuum to it and see it if is in fact advancing.

What is your initial timing? Total timing?