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L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout
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furgo
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 10:42 am    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

Thanks for the transistor part numbers. Same ones as on my other ECU.

I'm not sure which ones you mean. I only can see this solder bridge I marked on the picture, and it's for two pads joined by copper, which should be connected anyway:

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Or do you mean the wire bridges? Those were usually there to be able to have different functional variants with only one PCB design, which would reduce the extra initial costs of producing a totally different PCB for each variant. The additional cost of the variants would then only be during component placement (automated or manual on those days).

They should be totally OK as they are, unless someone fiddled with them after taking the ECU off the bus.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 11:39 am    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

furgo wrote:
Or do you mean the wire bridges? Those were usually there to be able to have different functional variants with only one PCB design, which would reduce the extra initial costs of producing a totally different PCB for each variant. The additional cost of the variants would then only be during component placement (automated or manual on those days).

They should be totally OK as they are, unless someone fiddled with them after taking the ECU off the bus.


Yes, the wire bridges, as I may have eluded to, thought they possibly could be for other variants like you mentioned, the one I was referring to I have already desoldered, bottom near the right side, you can see the flux residue. I should resolder the 2 connections I messed with then, probably not the cause of the NFG marking. Confused The ECU might also be fine, depending on who did the troubleshooting in the first place. This was a freebie for me.

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furgo
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 1:49 pm    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

ve7kilohertz wrote:
Yes, the wire bridges, as I may have eluded to, thought they possibly could be for other variants like you mentioned, the one I was referring to I have already desoldered, bottom near the right side, you can see the flux residue. I should resolder the 2 connections I messed with then, probably not the cause of the NFG marking. Confused The ECU might also be fine, depending on who did the troubleshooting in the first place. This was a freebie for me.


As much as we'd like to learn more about it, the ECU is a black box, as there is no wiring diagram for it and this particular one cannot be reverse-engineered. Most of the analog processing is done in Bosch-specific ICs with no public datasheets.

Being honest, unsoldering or resoldering random connections on a 40-year-old PCB without circuit diagrams is not the way I would diagnose it. This to me is the equivalent of suspecting that an unknown engine does not work and starting unplugging arbitrary hoses in the hope that that might fix an issue.

This is not meant in a harsh way. I do understand that you have professional working knowledge of what you're doing and I can see the QC mindset, but that might encourage others to poke in the dark and potentially destroy good working ECUs.

Instead, there are better and safer things one could do with that ECU, even if they're not in the manuals. I would start with testing if the ECU works at all. For instance:

1. Connecting the ECU to 12 V, pins 5, 16 and 17 to GND and checking that the voltage does not sink and/or the current does not go through the roof. Best done with a bench power supply with overcurrent protection/limitation.
2. If things don't go up in flames, next: injecting a 12V clock signal through pin 1 and watching the base of the power transistor (injector driver). The injector signal should have half the frequency, and most probably a different duty cycle. TS2, TS1 and the AFM voltage would need to be connected or simulated with potentiometers for this to work.

That's how I tested my spare ECU at some point in the past. This should work in theory with all ECUs, but as we don't know the circuitry inside, it can't be guaranteed that it will. But at least, it's where I'd start before getting hold of a soldering iron.

Alternatively, some parts of the PCB that don't go straight into the Bosch ICs can be retraced and some knowledge might be gained from them. If you're lucky, your wire bridges might be one of them and there is enough discrete circuitry around them to recognize some known building blocks and determine what the wires were for. IIRC they were not only used for variants, but in the days before vias or multi-layer PCBs they could be used to simplify routing that otherwise would be too complex or non-optimal.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 5:08 pm    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

Hey Furgo,

I completely agree, which is why I only de-soldered 2 bridges, and why I marked them so could reverse it, which I will now do. I measured the injector driver ON503 and checks fine, there may still be nothing wrong with it and could have been a bad sensor or something the previous owner missed, I won't know for sure until I can find a vehicle to check it in. After I thought about it, the ECU must have worked for many years before it or something else crapped out, so the solder bridge removal was an incorrect decision on my part.

I am actually planning to connect the whole system, with injectors, AFM, AAV, TTS, CSV etc and then connect my pulse gen to pin 1 like you suggest, to see if I can get the injectors to fire real world, but without gasoline. Not sure how the driver xstr would like firing into no load? Very Happy I'll put a 2,200R in place of TS1 as well.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 3:13 pm    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

[img]Hi
My first post on this forum. I have near zero experience with old VW but have good knowledge about engine management and have some electrical skills. I’ve been lucky a couple of times before and have managed to repair a couple of ecu’s and a few other things.
A local club for old VW’s has reached out to me for help with a ECU they suspect is bad. I agreed to have a quick look at it. I have problems finding schematics and data sheets to assist me. This forum seems to be very knowledgeable and you are hopefully able to help. Since my question is very relevant to the discussion in this thread I hope that it is ok that I ask my question here instead of opening a new one.
The ecu is a 0280000139 from a for me unknown vehicle.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I suspect that the power transistor on503 is no good.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Following picture show diode test from emitter to base. I did not expect continuity here. Base emitter is 0.6v. Base -> collector and emitter-> collector are also 0.6v. Collector-> emitter and collector-> base gives OL.
Could anyone confirm if this is expected behavior or not from this component ?
Measurements where taking assuming that the left pin/screw is collector. The lower/middle pin is base and the upper right pin is emitter.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Best regards
Espen
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 9:50 pm    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

For testing purposes, a disconnected transistor looks like two diodes wired back to back, with the junction between the two being the Base terminal. Thus, with an ohmmeter set to the "diode" ohms range, and one ohmmeter lead connected to the Base terminal, the other lead will show conductivity to either the Collector or Emitter terminal. Reversing the polarity of the ohmmeter will show no conductivity. Bad transistors will either show no conductivity in either direction, or conductivity in both directions. For NPN transistors, conductivity will occur when the Base is positive relative to the other two terminals; for PNP transistors, it's the opposite.

To determine which terminal is which, Google a TO3 transistor package pinout.

I don't think there's anything really special about the transistor driving the injectors. Anything that can handle, say, 15 amps at around 100 volts should work. Back when these units were designed, transistors weren't nearly as stout as units commonly produced today.

In a pinch, while it's only rated at 60 volts, I'd try the ubiquitous 2N3055...

(That said, I should put a 'scope on the injector drive terminals and see what the actual operating drive pulse looks like...)
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furgo
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:28 pm    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

Hi Espen,

Welcome to The Samba!

We should probably create a new, ECU-specific thread to keep things tidy, but I don't see anything wrong with discussing it here.

A few things:

• Looking at the ECU table in this thread, yours would seem to be for a '76 Federal bus
• You mention that the owner suspects that the ECU is bad. I would try to confirm this (*) before starting to chase an issue that might not be there.
• Usually component tests are not always reliable unless the device under test is removed from the circuit. Telford has already gone into detail on this and on transistor testing.
• You already got the transistor pinout correctly, but for others watching this, at least Emitter (E) and Collector (C) are marked on the PCB's silkscreen printing.
• There are no schematics available for these ECUs. However you can reverse-engineer some parts of the circuit fairly easily. Notice the stress in "some". Doing the whole PCB would be a much bigger project and not entirely possible due to the unavailability of datasheets for the three ICs.
• I mention this because if you suspect there is an issue with the power transistor, part of the circuitry associated can be traced. IIRC, the base is driven by one of the ICs with the round heatsink; the collector is connected to the injector pins directly; the emitter goes to GND. An RC circuit pulls the base to ground, I seem to recall. I can try to find the notes I took on my ECU a while back.

(*) Here's how I'd do a quick test on the bench. If you don't have an oscilloscope, an even easier test is to put the ECU on a bus. But even if you can swap ECUs in a working bus, I'd do test 1. on the bench before, to rule out any shorts on the unknown ECU first.

furgo wrote:

1. Connecting the ECU to 12 V, pins 5, 16 and 17 to GND and checking that the voltage does not sink and/or the current does not go through the roof. Best done with a bench power supply with overcurrent protection/limitation.
2. If things don't go up in flames, next: injecting a 12V clock signal through pin 1 and watching the base of the power transistor (injector driver). The injector signal should have half the frequency, and most probably a different duty cycle. TS2, TS1 and the AFM voltage would need to be connected or simulated with potentiometers for this to work.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 1:20 am    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

telford dorr wrote:
For testing purposes, a disconnected transistor looks like two diodes wired back to back, with the junction between the two being the Base terminal. Thus, with an ohmmeter set to the "diode" ohms range, and one ohmmeter lead connected to the Base terminal, the other lead will show conductivity to either the Collector or Emitter terminal. Reversing the polarity of the ohmmeter will show no conductivity. Bad transistors will either show no conductivity in either direction, or conductivity in both directions. For NPN transistors, conductivity will occur when the Base is positive relative to the other two terminals; for PNP transistors, it's the opposite.


As you might se from the pictures terminals on the transistor are de-soldered. You are confirming what I was expecting. I should see connectivity from base to emitter, and no connectivity from emitter to base.


furgo wrote:

Hi Espen,

Welcome to The Samba!

We should probably create a new, ECU-specific thread to keep things tidy, but I don't see anything wrong with discussing it here.

A few things:

• Looking at the ECU table in this thread, yours would seem to be for a '76 Federal bus
• You mention that the owner suspects that the ECU is bad. I would try to confirm this (*) before starting to chase an issue that might not be there.
• Usually component tests are not always reliable unless the device under test is removed from the circuit. Telford has already gone into detail on this and on transistor testing.
• You already got the transistor pinout correctly, but for others watching this, at least Emitter (E) and Collector (C) are marked on the PCB's silkscreen printing.
• There are no schematics available for these ECUs. However you can reverse-engineer some parts of the circuit fairly easily. Notice the stress in "some". Doing the whole PCB would be a much bigger project and not entirely possible due to the unavailability of datasheets for the three ICs.
• I mention this because if you suspect there is an issue with the power transistor, part of the circuitry associated can be traced. IIRC, the base is driven by one of the ICs with the round heatsink; the collector is connected to the injector pins directly; the emitter goes to GND. An RC circuit pulls the base to ground, I seem to recall. I can try to find the notes I took on my ECU a while back.

(*) Here's how I'd do a quick test on the bench. If you don't have an oscilloscope, an even easier test is to put the ECU on a bus. But even if you can swap ECUs in a working bus, I'd do test 1. on the bench before, to rule out any shorts on the unknown ECU first.
furgo wrote:

1. Connecting the ECU to 12 V, pins 5, 16 and 17 to GND and checking that the voltage does not sink and/or the current does not go through the roof. Best done with a bench power supply with overcurrent protection/limitation.
2. If things don't go up in flames, next: injecting a 12V clock signal through pin 1 and watching the base of the power transistor (injector driver). The injector signal should have half the frequency, and most probably a different duty cycle. TS2, TS1 and the AFM voltage would need to be connected or simulated with potentiometers for this to work.



Didn't notice the E and C silkscreen before you mentioned it. It΄s there and confirms that I had the pinout correctly. I've connected power and nothing burns. I have an oscilloscope but no 12v signal generator. Guess I could make one but connecting it to a bus would probably be easier. That way I can check that there actually is a clock signal at pin 1 and also check that other inputs are within range.
Should probably check resistance between the relay providing power to injectors and the ecu as well since the Transistor seems to be faulty.

To both of you.. Thank you for your replies.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 2:21 am    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

Excellent, let us know how it goes!
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 10:25 am    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

Decided to make a quick test circuit for the transistor. Seems to be working so I will try ECU as it is in the bus.

I’m able to adjust from 0-4A which is max for my supply.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 10:38 pm    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

PLEASE put a current limiting resistor in series with the base lead and collector lead! Accidentally turning the pot all the way up will toast the base-emitter junction for sure, and could likely cause the collector current and/or power dissipation to exceed max ratings.

[Ironically, back in the '60's, when transistors were new and not well understood, experimental transistor circuits in electronics magazines almost never had current limiting resistors in their circuits. Probably a left-over mentality from vacuum tube design, where short duration blunders weren't necessarily fatal. I wonder how many builders fried their expensive transistor by turning a pot all the way up?]
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 10:25 am    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

Connected blue probe to ECU pin1 and Yellow probe to pin32.

Injector seems to be grounded for 5-6ms. This should be enough to get some fuel?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 11:06 am    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

EspenT wrote:
Connected blue probe to ECU pin1 and Yellow probe to pin32.
Injector seems to be grounded for 5-6ms. This should be enough to get some fuel?

I would think so. Consider:

1000 (rev / min) / 60 ( sec / min) = 16.67 (rev / sec)

16.67 (rev / sec) x 1 (inj pulse / rev) = 16.67 (inj pulse / sec)

1 / 16.67 (inj pulse / sec) = 60 msec between injector pulses

so: 5 msec / 60 msec = 8.3% injector pulse duty cycle

This seems reasonable for idle, considering the engine load.

By the same logic, at 5,000 rev/min you would have 12 msec between injector pulses which, and with a 5 msec injector pulse, would represent a 42% injector duty cycle. Again, reasonable.

Q: what's the peak positive spike height on the injector (yellow) waveform? It's going off-screen. This would be useful in determining the voltage rating on the driver transistor...
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 11:23 am    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

Could you tell us more about your setup? E.g.

- What's the frequency of the input signal? I too would be interested to know the positive peak value -and if you used a probe with attenuation to measure it.
- Does the output signal get halved to actuate the injectors, as expected?
- But essentially... are you measuring on a running engine or on the bench? Otherwise the question of whether there is enough fuel to run would seem to be obvious Smile.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 2:31 am    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

telford dorr wrote:


Q: what's the peak positive spike height on the injector (yellow) waveform? It's going off-screen. This would be useful in determining the voltage rating on the driver transistor...


Unfortunately I did not think about measuring the Voltage peak inducted in the injector coil. We found some other electrical issues that needs to be sorted out. If I'm going back there with the scope I΄l try to remember measuring the peak.

furgo wrote:
Could you tell us more about your setup? E.g.

- What's the frequency of the input signal? I too would be interested to know the positive peak value -and if you used a probe with attenuation to measure it.
- Does the output signal get halved to actuate the injectors, as expected?
- But essentially... are you measuring on a running engine or on the bench? Otherwise the question of whether there is enough fuel to run would seem to be obvious Smile.


Did not measure the frequency. It was not entirely stable as engine does not start and was driven by the starter. Probes are 1x.

Not entirely sure what your question is.. There is one trigger for the injectors every other coil trigger if that is what you asked.

Measuring with engine installed in a 1976 Westfalia bus imported to Norway from US in the early 80s.

Running fuel pump manualy gives correct fuel pressure. Not sure if it actually runs when we try to start engine.

After measuring that Injectors are triggered with the scope I started measuring out resistance between the pins on the ecu connector according to a earlier post in this thread. I quickly realised that pin 3 does not exist like it should according to said post, and an electrical diagram the owner had for the car. There was also no connection from pin 6 to pin 7.
He did have another engine harness with pin 3 connect. We came to the conclusion that he had mixed up the engine harness for a 78 he had used as a donor for some parts, and the 76. Harness will be swapped.
We also found problems with the double relay. One circuit one the print was burned which I replaced with wire.

I΄l appreciate all you help and will give and update when there is any news.
Please tell If I should create a new thread for this.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 3:16 am    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

EspenT wrote:

furgo wrote:


- What's the frequency of the input signal? I too would be interested to know the positive peak value -and if you used a probe with attenuation to measure it


Not entirely sure what your question is.. There is one trigger for the injectors every other coil trigger if that is what you asked.


Yes, sorry If I wasn't clear. You answered my question. So it seems the ECU is doing its job.

EspenT wrote:
Running fuel pump manualy gives correct fuel pressure. Not sure if it actually runs when we try to start engine.


How did you determine that the fuel pressure was correct in the first place? If you used a fuel gauge, I'd suggest leaving it connected to measure the pressure while cranking or while running idle.

You can then compare the pressure measurement with the expected values, as stated on the A.F.C. manual, section Fuel Pressure Regulator – Checking, on page 20

EspenT wrote:
After measuring that Injectors are triggered with the scope I started measuring out resistance between the pins on the ecu connector according to a earlier post in this thread. I quickly realised that pin 3 does not exist like it should according to said post, and an electrical diagram the owner had for the car. He did have another engine harness with pin 3 connect. We came to the conclusion that he had mixed up the engine harness for a 78 he had used as a donor for some parts, and the 76. Harness will be swapped.


That's an easy one to figure out: if the engine has a full throttle switch, the harness should have a connection to it, and the ECU connector on the harness should have terminals present for pins 3 and 18.

The full throttle switch, if present, should be mounted on the throttle body.

EspenT wrote:
There was also no connection from pin 6 to pin 7.


There should be NO direct connection between pin 6 (ground) and pin 7 (AFM voltage output). The AFM manual (Air Flow Sensor/lntake Air Temperature Sensor – Checking, page 1Cool lists the expected resistance (with ignition off) as 40-300 Ω.

EspenT wrote:
We also found problems with the double relay. One circuit one the print was burned which I replaced with wire.
I'll appreciate all you help and will give and update when there is any news.
Please tell If I should create a new thread for this.


Yes, please. If that's ok with you, I for one would suggest creating a new thread to keep this one tidy. We're kind of leaving the original topic of L-Jetronic connector pinout and going into ECU/engine troubleshooting territory. I'm sure folks will also chime in there.

Some questions, though... Do I get this right from what you are saying?

• The ECU seems to generate some injector pulses that are half the frequency of the engine speed input signal while cranking the engine. I would think that this proves that the ECU is not dead and it's doing its main job. Whether it's doing it correctly, is hard to determine 100% without a running engine.
• You are testing your ECU on a bus with a non-running engine (e.g. burned double relay). From this I'd say that the ECU diagnostic capabilities are limited until the engine actually runs. In plain text, it'll be difficult to tell whether the bus not running because of the ECU or because an issue with the engine itself.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2019 7:48 am    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

ve7kilohertz wrote:
In the top side photo, you can see the wires soldered and passed thru to the bottom layer, 2 of them were "joined" to pads on the bottom, which looked like solder bridging, the others were all just bent over but not soldered, maybe test points?

Those unsoldered wires are just the tail end of Bosch making an old-timey version of what today we would substitute a 'plated-via' or 'plated-through hole' for. The wire typically connects a copper track on the top to a copper track on the bottom.

So why the loose wire tail? Probably a manufacturing efficiency. They threaded a U-shaped wire instead of a straight one, which is probably the same function as their longer wire bander. Since it only needs continuity on top and bottom, that's all they solder.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2019 9:57 am    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

furgo wrote:

• '79 CA bus diagram: on pin 28, I believe there needs to be GND for the fuel pump to be properly powered, but again, I don't know without having checked the actual connection on a '79 CA ECU.

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Nice pinout!

I see pin 28 has some question marks at the moment. I don't mean to conflate the Bay with the Vanagon, but the AFC ProTraining manual may have a clue if they are similar. As indicated in the table below, on a Vanagon AFC California ECU, pin 28 [Fuel] 'Pump Circuit' goes '12 volts' when 'key ON' and [air] 'sensor flap open'.

And according to the diagram below, the fuel pump is tied to GND, therefore, it would need 12V to turn on.

Maybe someone can verify?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2019 10:58 am    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

RawUmber wrote:
So why the loose wire tail? Probably a manufacturing efficiency. They threaded a U-shaped wire instead of a straight one, which is probably the same function as their longer wire bander. Since it only needs continuity on top and bottom, that's all they solder.

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Yup, the bent bare wire ends are to hold it in place before soldering. Note there is no solder pad where the bent bare end pokes out of the PCB.

As a naοve Electronics teacher said to a class including stoners back in high school. "A tight connection is a prerequisite to obtaining a proper joint." He didn't understand why the class was in hysterics after he said that.
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furgo
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 12:54 pm    Post subject: Re: L-Jetronic ECU connector pinout Reply with quote

Thanks for contributing to figuring this one out. In the meantime, I had created a new, single diagram to rule them all, but I've just realized I never posted it on the forum. Here it is:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Some notes:

• It should cover all '75-'79 busses, including California.
• Pinout viewed from the harness side now, as that's where testing is generally done
• The points below still apply:

furgo wrote:

Other than that, the same unanswered questions of the first post remain. To recap:

• Pin 18: is it +12V? Need either '75, '76 or '79 CA ECU (or bus) with WOT switch to confirm.
• Pin 20: is the "fuel pump running" signal unused (i.e. open pin or no pin present on the ECU connector) only on '79 Federal ECUs or on all years?
• Pin 28: is it permanent GND? Need '79 CA ECU/bus to confirm.

If someone with that configuration could contribute, then the pinout diagrams would be complete.


To your point on pin #28 on California '79 busses:

RawUmber wrote:

I see pin 28 has some question marks at the moment. I don't mean to conflate the Bay with the Vanagon, but the AFC ProTraining manual may have a clue if they are similar. As indicated in the table below, on a Vanagon AFC California ECU, pin 28 [Fuel] 'Pump Circuit' goes '12 volts' when 'key ON' and [air] 'sensor flap open'.

And according to the diagram below, the fuel pump is tied to GND, therefore, it would need 12V to turn on.

Maybe someone can verify?


One thing to notice is that the wiring diagrams for years '79-'82 CA on the ProTraining AFC document cover only Vanagons. Vanagon wiring is different from the Bay Window '79 CA wiring diagram, even if they have similarities: http://www.vintagebus.com/wiring/bus-79c-3.jpg - at a quick glance, the Vanagon has an additional OXS relay, and double relay pins 85, 86b, 88c and 88d seem to be tied together.

In the Bay Window wiring diagrams, my assumption is that ECU pin #28 (pin #85 on the double relay) is either hardwired or pulled to ground once the ECU is powered on. The other side of each relay (pin #86c and pin #86a) is connected to +12V at some point (either the key is on ignition ON or on START), so it would make sense that the other terminal (#85) is at the lower potential for current to flow.
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