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Globespotter
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 12:56 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Globespotter wrote:
So the engine on my 77 Westy is out for a rebuild. Any advice on what to do while it is out?

I have already replaced the fuel filler and vapor lines. Thinking I'll pull the sender and fix it. Any other tasks while I'm in there?


Reseal your tranny if it has not been done in a while. Also install a shift bushing kit while the tranny is out.


Tranny is not out. Just engine.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 1:00 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Globespotter wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
Globespotter wrote:
So the engine on my 77 Westy is out for a rebuild. Any advice on what to do while it is out?

I have already replaced the fuel filler and vapor lines. Thinking I'll pull the sender and fix it. Any other tasks while I'm in there?


Reseal your tranny if it has not been done in a while. Also install a shift bushing kit while the tranny is out.


Tranny is not out. Just engine.


It takes little time to pull the tranny while the engine is out, while you can not remove the tranny while the engine is in. Good time to clean and repack the CV's as well.

The seals are cheap.
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 10:41 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Cleaning the transaxle is MUCH easier with it out, and a clean transaxle runs cooler and therefore lasts longer. +1 vote for "do it!"

Robbie
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alman72
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 5:35 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

what is the quality go-to for push rod seals?
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cv66seabear
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 6:39 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Quick questions re: clutch cable replacement- So far, I've heard to grease the entire cable and grease just the part that goes through the Bowden tube.
Which is correct? If I grease the length am I just asking for the grease to pick up dirt and gunk?

Replace the Bowden tube everytime or just if it appears damaged?

Thanks!
KentWI
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 7:28 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

cv66seabear wrote:
Quick questions re: clutch cable replacement- So far, I've heard to grease the entire cable and grease just the part that goes through the Bowden tube.
Which is correct? If I grease the length am I just asking for the grease to pick up dirt and gunk?

Replace the Bowden tube everytime or just if it appears damaged?

Thanks!
KentWI


The clutch cable experiences tension through out the entire cable. The greatest tension being experienced in the rubbing surfaces i.e. tubes, pulleys. To add to that, the cable rust.
The cable should be Lubricated with a Penetrating protective lube its entire length.
Then apply a top coating lubricant to the high friction areas i.e. tubes and pulleys.
A little reading
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/372/wire-rope-lubrication

The Bowden tube is a wear item. If it shows no signs of wear run it again. But if it shows any wear at all replace it.

GD
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wcfvw69 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 7:36 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

If the bowden tube looks aged at all, I pitch it in the trash. They are cheap. Make sure you get the best quality bowden tube as well.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 9:07 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

The last Gemo Bowden tube I got was good construction.
https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rl...p;oe=UTF-8
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 10:13 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

alman72 wrote:
what is the quality go-to for push rod seals?

For what kind of engine?
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Mispeld
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 11:19 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I've been looking for diagrams for the vapor lines. PO just connected the two together above the engine lid. From what I've seen, there is a T fitting, then goes to the Air cleaner? One line is curved so it doesn't look like a T fitting goes there.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Currently, a vacuum line goes from the diaphragm looking part on the air cleaner to the charcoal canister and T's off to the metal part below the charcoal canister.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


What's wrong? What am I missing? Yes, hoses will be replaced in the near future. It's on my looooong list of things to do. Thanks.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 12:16 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Now that's some seriously creative vacuum line placement, go ahead, blame your PO Very Happy

The 2 lines in the roof of the engine compartment Tee together, the RH (darker colored) line needs to swing forward to pick up the side branch of the Tee when one end is on the green line, from there it goes to the small fitting on your charcoal canister (the one currently connected to your decel and EEC valves Confused ). Have a look at this: http://www.ratwell.com/technical/VacuumHoses.html

Definitely change those hoses, it's suprising it even runs with those on there, here's how it should be plumbed:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Mispeld
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 1:40 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Yep, PO. I'm sticking with that. Razz

Thanks again busdaddy, you just answered every question I had. I corrected them all with the exception of the vapor lines. I need to pick up a T fitting to connect them to the charcoal canister.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 3:10 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
alman72 wrote:
what is the quality go-to for push rod seals?

For what kind of engine?

it is a 1973. sorry. pancake.
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alman72
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 3:11 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
alman72 wrote:
what is the quality go-to for push rod seals?

For what kind of engine?

it is a 1973. sorry. pancake.
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cv66seabear
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 3:30 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thank you gentlemen - TCash and Bill - Interesting reading!
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Last edited by cv66seabear on Sun Jul 08, 2018 11:41 am; edited 1 time in total
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 5:30 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

alman72 wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
alman72 wrote:
what is the quality go-to for push rod seals?

For what kind of engine?

it is a 1973. sorry. pancake.

Maybe add some of those facts to your signature line next time you are poking around the control panel tab at the upper left of this page? Wink

Read this: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=410602 pay particular attention to Raygreenwood's post.
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78BusGA
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 2:08 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

What tricks have some of you used to get a stubborn front seat to move in it's track? Mine won't budge on the outboard rail.
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Spike0180
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 5:36 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

78BusGA wrote:
What tricks have some of you used to get a stubborn front seat to move in it's track? Mine won't budge on the outboard rail.


Clean it really well. Lube it really well (I use 10W40 oil, because I have it laying around). If it is rusted, PB Blaster is your friend. Use it liberally and let it sit, re-applying a couple times a day for a few days.
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Mispeld
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 11:54 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I forced mine very carwfully after lubing like mentioned above. I used a crow bar with a 2x4 against the wall/door pillar and carefully pried at the base of the tracks. I don't think it has moved in 20 yrs.
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78BusGA
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 8:04 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks for the suggestions. Yea, these haven't moved in 16 years.
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