Vent Wing Leak

[avocado_tom]

First big rain after putting my '67 back together and my first priority was looking for leaks.

Suffice to say, I wasn't let down and there's a lot of water coming in at the vent wing.

Looks like the vertical seal extends too far down and as a result, the big bottom one-piece seal can't seat in the frame right, causing the vent wing to not fully be able to close. Am I diagnosing this right?

Full picture of the door here if there's anything else I've screwed up.

[Krustybus]

Looks to me like the big seal is not in place correctly. There is a channel inside the frame that the seal fits into. Then the outside edges of the seal go over the frame. A real pain to get in right, but you can tell when it’s in correctly.
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Tim

[hitest]

The upper, riveted hinge is supposed to protrude through a small slit in the adjacent part of the seal. It's forcing the herniation your getting above it. If I'm not mistaken did you try to do your seals while leaving the vent window in place?

The rear seal is fine- and I agree with the above poster- you just need to fully seat the seal in the inner groove. While you have it out- cut the excess mold flashing from the inside (at least). It will make it fit much easier.

Lastly- a quick search of the FAQs leads to this: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=266079
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[avocado_tom]

[hitest]

I rubbed my eyes and now I see a little better! Your upper wing mount does indeed pass through the rubber. Great deal. That stubborn seal, when grabbing the entire length of that inner grip channel, should allow the rear vertical seal to pass through.

Also on that closer eyes-rubbed view- I truly believe the mold flashing is a major contributor to the heartache with that lower corner intersection. I swear I see a small vertical flap that needs removal.
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[avocado_tom]

[hitest]

If you ever built plastic models- you know the extra rims and ridges of plastic you had to carefully trim off the wheels so they would fit in the tires? Some call them molding sprues. When the rubber is poured into a mold- the more 3d the product- the more gaps between each section of an imprecise mold. Those seals are notorious for having extra mold flashing that needs to be cut off. Moreso than any other bus seal I have seen. Mold flash is exactly what you have a vertical strip of where the vent pivots through the seal. On the underside it is ten times worse- and complicates installation in the window frame's metal channel.

Or, flashing is what squirts off the side of the breakfast waffle maker in the hotel lobby!
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[easy e]

Vertical seal can be left long.
Trim adjacent seal (see orange lines for approximation) to remove flashing and maybe relieve it some for the shape of the vertical seal. Make the puzzle pieces fit as best you can.
Big seal needs to be fully seated in it's center channel groove and the outer lip needs to be pulled over the outer part of the metal frame.

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aka: Evan
Spreadsheet for Bus RPM, based on gearing & tire size (Excel format)
Searchable, click-navigable 1958 Bus Parts List

[avocado_tom]

Thanks Hitest and Easy E!

[avocado_tom]

So I think I'm getting closer, but my window still isn't seating the whole way (and therefore isn't completely sealing).

It looks like I need to keep removing a little more of that horizontal extra rubber (beyond what was just flashing) so that everything seats better, based on Easy E's pictures. I'll post an update when I've done that.