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hippiepilot
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found the spray bottle was more important, at least to me. I used 30 -70 bleach and h2o in a http://www.tryfit.com/ bottle. The bottle was nice and small and the spray was a very fine mist giving me good control of the amount being applied to the pop top. http://www.vwvid.com/m/photos/view/Demolding-pop-top I had great results on the two vans I did this with.
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You cleaned your CANVAS with Tilex, right? I know everyone does the fuzzy headliner with it, which I did w/ great results. One day, hopefully later than sooner, I'll replace the canvas, at which point I'll turn the head liner upside down and sprayed and clean and rinse it...Not a huge fan of that Tilex up there, but having worked on it for several hours every night since last Sunday, I'm rather sick of the entire ordeal and not thrilled w/ the outcome. I have been using my SIL's Little Green Machine and it helps, but still see foam up there every time I put fresh water up...

Timwhy wrote:
Last weekend I cleaned the inside of my pop top. It had some of the usual
spotty mold growing on it and around the perimeter of the canvas
where it attaches to the pop top.
The first method I tried was the bleach and water in a spray bottle.
I used a scotch pad to scrub the top as well as the canvas. It seemed
to work fine but I thought that it would ruin my canvas if the bleach
solution was too strong.
I tried the solution out on a rag to see if there would be any color
change, and when there was I dilluted the solution more.
The day after I tried this method I tired some Tilex mold remover.
Better results than the bleach! I had some mold on the canvas that
would not come off using bleach.
Once I used the Tilex, waited 5 minutes and the mold was gone.
I sprayed over the entire pop top interior as well as the canvas and
let it soak in. Any problem areas I used another scrub pad and all
the mold dissappeared.
So anyone looking to clean their interior pop top or canvas, don't mess with
trying to get the right bleach to water mixture and buy some Tilex and
get a bucket of clean water to wipe it down after it has a chance to work.


There is plenty of information on the FAQ about the headliner, but little if anything about the canvas. I'm still having trouble with the Canvas. In the easy world, I'd take the canvas off, throw it in my washing machine w/ bleach and it'd be so beautiful and mark/stain/mold free...But, if I'm going to the trouble to take it off and know I won't be able to get it back on myself, may as well replace it. Since the Money Fairy has other wishes, I'm going to make this work as long as possible...

I've bleached the mold and got most of it out. It's still semi-visible in a few spots, but *hope* it's dead at this point. Living mold spreads AND eats away at your fabric, leaving holes...BUT, having tried Hydrogen Peroxide, Vinegar, Spray Nine and Oxi-clean, the mold was still there and I went to Tilex. BUT, now the fabric is discoloured in a few spots. I used the Tilex more than once, and after hearing others put Tilex on and left it all night, I didn't, but must not have rinsed it well enough, b/c now I have bleached spots where it's lighter. I'd do it again in the back corner where the mold was worse, but regret doing it in a few other more forward (visible) and probably more stained than mold spots...Dumbass!

Any solutions to the bleached fabric spots, aside from the obvious, do it more like Time did and bleach the *entire* canvas? Has anyone bleached the entire canvas and gotten a few more years out of their canvas? Or is it just done at this point?

tam
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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tam, try diluted tilex. Spray on and wipe off with cleanish water and spongee. You can use a mild detergent
on the canvas, inside and out! I would suggest you try doing your cleaning on a hot sunny day. It will make the drying
quicker and the smell from the diluted Tilex disappear. On the outside canvas, once washed and dried. Spray
silicon all over it, this will make the canvas waterproof. If you don't like silicon there are other products for this.
If you do use the silicon do this also in bright sunshine. Be patient, as this stuff smells bad too. It will dissapear
when the canvas drys in the sun.
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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 9:50 am    Post subject: Tilex Reply with quote

Not to contradict my buddy Tim but I wouldn't silicone my canvas. Canvas likes to breathe and waterproofing it stops that from happening. It's supposed to get wet to get water proof. It's a theory I try not to test by using my GW rain fly. The breath ability of the canvas is what I found the most appealing when replacing my tent.

As far as mould goes, Tilex has worked for me. This year is the first year since 09 that I had any return. I just spray it lightly and let it dry. No rinse.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2015 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As always, someone else has done the experiments and I get to benefit. Just looked to see how grotty the pop top was, even with the vent open. A bleach and water solution in a spray bottle did the trick. Might have been stronger than I needed. Ask me how I know Confused

I took the bedding out to prevent any drips from bleaching out the color. Prolly air it out before returning it. It would be nice if there a vent at the hinge end to circulate some air. This is replacement canvas: does anyone do that?

I'll check the faq/stickies for tips on preventing recurrences of it.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2015 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A related thread......
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=166505
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 5:49 pm    Post subject: Re: cleaning mold on pop top ceiling Reply with quote

I usually just use this site for solving problems but in this case none of the solutions I found worked.
My black mold had been building up for several years and it was disgusting and I needed a new canvas.
I tried few caps of bleach with soap and water (gowesty youtube) did nothing, 50/50 bleach/water, 25/25/50 bleach/water/oxyclean, simple green and water, even Bissel carpet shampoo and nothing was working. All of these tries and it was only 50% gone. My arms were tired and I was about to give up. Then I saw a bottle of X14 that I bought for mold in a bathroom. Why not? I was on the verge of sanding off the fuzzy crap, and painting it.
I used it full strength and was amazed to watch the mold just fade away with a little scrubbing. It looks great. It's cheap and it works.
Oh...by the way, do not attempt this with the top on the van. I was able to remove the top and flip it by myself using the rafters in the garage and driving out from under it, but i don't recommend this now that i have done it. To risky and the top is heavier than I thought and very difficult to handle.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 8:48 pm    Post subject: Re: cleaning mold on pop top ceiling Reply with quote

I've posted this in several other "mold threads"...

I had BAD black mold all over my pop-top flocking when I bought my van 4 years ago. Used 1 cup of Borax to 1 gallon water and scrubbed. Haven't seen a spot of mold since!

Bleach is just about the worst thing you can try to clean mold with especially on pourus surfaces (fabric, etc). Only makes things worse. Google it. Tons of info out there.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 8:52 pm    Post subject: Re: cleaning mold on pop top ceiling Reply with quote

I use bleach to kill the mold then a borax solution to bury it
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 6:29 pm    Post subject: Re: cleaning mold on pop top ceiling Reply with quote

Hi everyone,

The fuzzy liner on my 77 campmobile pop top is pretty clean... but it falls off if touched. Anyone know if wetting or cleaning it will stop this from happening? The particles are pretty nasty to inhale when the become airborn. Any advice is greatly appreciated! Thank you Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 6:40 pm    Post subject: Re: cleaning mold on pop top ceiling Reply with quote

Is it streaky?

It's possible someone over-bleached it and didn't rinse it well enough. Does it smell bleachy?

A little friend tells me he did that once. Wink

Wetting or at least rubbing on the flecking can strip the fuzzies, we lost some but was overzealous. You might maybe test a corner or somewhere.

Last time I did it I used four Clorox dry bleach packets per quart of bath-temp water. It was slower than a bleach-water mix but way less intense to work with. Next time I'll use three packets/quart, mixture was a hair strong and harder to rinse.

This being said, it's worked for me but above opinions of bleach being corrosive are correct. I mitigated that by rinsing sections immediately after spraying. The mold almost vaporizes from dark to clear within a few seconds, then used a huge soaking wet bath towel and mopped it up over several spongings.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2019 4:54 pm    Post subject: Re: cleaning mold on pop top ceiling Reply with quote

I just found the quickest and easiest way to clean my 81 Westy poptop interior. For years I have used a solution of about 20% bleach and water, applied with a sponge. But it's an unpleasant job, and I had to put down plastic dropcloth to protect areas from spillage. Plus, the juice wanted to run down my arm.

This year I had acquired a used carpet shampoo machine that has an upholstery extension with a flexible hose. I filled the solution container with my bleach solution. The upholstery brush has a spray nozzle, a brush and a vacuum to recover the used cleaning solution. I just worked a section at a time, first spraying on the solution, waiting a minute or two and applying the brush to any stubborn stain areas, and then used the vacuum to suck up the leftover juice from the ceiling. It did a perfect job, with no bleach spillage, no running down the arm, and it was quick and the easiest time I ever had with that job..

I got the used Bissell carpet shampoo machine from a friend for free because it had some clogged nozzles. I'm a fixit guy so I took it apart and cleaned out the tubing and valves. It actually works well on carpets and upholstery too. You could probably find a used machine at a thrift store or garage sale for cheap.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2019 5:35 pm    Post subject: Re: cleaning mold on pop top ceiling Reply with quote

Vinegar and water was simple and effective for me.

I think I heated up like a 1/4 cup of white vinegar with two cups water, let it cool to lukewarm , pour in spray bottle, spray until noticeably wet but not soaked , new scrub brush and scrub, and leave the top open all day in the sunny driveway until dry.

open all the windows.

Works! The vinegar smell totally goes away.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2019 11:32 pm    Post subject: Re: cleaning mold on pop top ceiling Reply with quote

Intermittently over the years, a spot or two of mildew will appear and I use a mild bleach solution (about 5%-10% bleach) and a toothbrush. It works great.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2022 2:13 pm    Post subject: Re: cleaning mold on pop top ceiling Reply with quote

lynnoski wrote:
Hi everyone,

The fuzzy liner on my 77 campmobile pop top is pretty clean... but it falls off if touched. Anyone know if wetting or cleaning it will stop this from happening? The particles are pretty nasty to inhale when the become airborn. Any advice is greatly appreciated! Thank you Very Happy


I’m in the same position. What did you end up doing?
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2022 3:27 pm    Post subject: Re: cleaning mold on pop top ceiling Reply with quote

creative native wrote:
Intermittently over the years, a spot or two of mildew will appear and I use a mild bleach solution (about 5%-10% bleach) and a toothbrush. It works great.


Actually a 5-10% solution is not terribly mild (talking about concentration of 5.35% hypochlorite bleach, not % of hypochlorite). 10% is 5000ppm sodium hypochlorite which is the max recommended for sanitization due to the corrosive nature. So 13oz household bleach to 0.9-1.0 gallons of water will kill anything. There are some caveats however:
    You should acidify the solution to maximize efficacy. Adding about 5 ounces of vinegar per gallon will do it. This maximizes the level of free hypochlorous acid in solution, which is the microbially active species.
    Chlorine is an oxidizer - how it kills - which also means it's a decolorizer. So the black can be gone long before the mold is actually dead.
    The chlorine is quickly exhausted if there's a lot of organic material to oxidize, so if the mold is thick it should be sprayed, left to kill, then brushed to expose any biofilm still in place, then spray and repeat.
    If you just spray and let sit, you may decolorize and kill the vegetative mold, but not get sufficient concentration inside the spore forming bodies to kill the spores. This is where the mechanical effects help - in rupturing the hyphae and exposing the spores to the disinfectant.
    The more porous the surface, the deeper the mold hyphae will penetrate, so soaking again after visually clean may be required.

You'll find that most household sanitizers (like the X14, Tilex, etc. already mentioned) are all sodium hypochlorite based. Unfortunately, they often also have surfactants and other ingredients that leave a residue which inhibits the chlorine disinfection the next go around.

Although I haven't tried these on poptops, there are a number of Peracetic acid (peroxyacetic is the same thing) sanitizers used in the brewing industry, and are thus for sale from brewery supply houses (5-15% usually). I have used it for 40 years in cleanrooms, and it kills basically everything. As others have noted, vinegar (acetic acid) and hydrogen peroxide do work, and peracetic acid is formed as a reaction with acetic acid and hydrogen peroxide. It breaks down to hydrogen peroxide and acetic acid, which then break down into water, oxygen and carbon dioxide, and so isn't toxic. Best of both worlds.

Just my 2 cents from killing tiny critters for many moons.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2022 9:10 am    Post subject: Re: cleaning mold on pop top ceiling Reply with quote

khughes wrote:
creative native wrote:
Intermittently over the years, a spot or two of mildew will appear and I use a mild bleach solution (about 5%-10% bleach) and a toothbrush. It works great.


Actually a 5-10% solution is not terribly mild (talking about concentration of 5.35% hypochlorite bleach, not % of hypochlorite). 10% is 5000ppm sodium hypochlorite which is the max recommended for sanitization due to the corrosive nature. So 13oz household bleach to 0.9-1.0 gallons of water will kill anything. There are some caveats however:
    You should acidify the solution to maximize efficacy. Adding about 5 ounces of vinegar per gallon will do it. This maximizes the level of free hypochlorous acid in solution, which is the microbially active species.
    Chlorine is an oxidizer - how it kills - which also means it's a decolorizer. So the black can be gone long before the mold is actually dead.
    The chlorine is quickly exhausted if there's a lot of organic material to oxidize, so if the mold is thick it should be sprayed, left to kill, then brushed to expose any biofilm still in place, then spray and repeat.
    If you just spray and let sit, you may decolorize and kill the vegetative mold, but not get sufficient concentration inside the spore forming bodies to kill the spores. This is where the mechanical effects help - in rupturing the hyphae and exposing the spores to the disinfectant.
    The more porous the surface, the deeper the mold hyphae will penetrate, so soaking again after visually clean may be required.

You'll find that most household sanitizers (like the X14, Tilex, etc. already mentioned) are all sodium hypochlorite based. Unfortunately, they often also have surfactants and other ingredients that leave a residue which inhibits the chlorine disinfection the next go around.

Although I haven't tried these on poptops, there are a number of Peracetic acid (peroxyacetic is the same thing) sanitizers used in the brewing industry, and are thus for sale from brewery supply houses (5-15% usually). I have used it for 40 years in cleanrooms, and it kills basically everything. As others have noted, vinegar (acetic acid) and hydrogen peroxide do work, and peracetic acid is formed as a reaction with acetic acid and hydrogen peroxide. It breaks down to hydrogen peroxide and acetic acid, which then break down into water, oxygen and carbon dioxide, and so isn't toxic. Best of both worlds.

Just my 2 cents from killing tiny critters for many moons.
Thanks, khughes, that's one heck of an informative post!

Do I correctly understand that you're saying to use white vinegar and peroxide 50/50 and scrub the mould with a brush for maximum results?

Thanks!
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2022 12:44 pm    Post subject: Re: cleaning mold on pop top ceiling Reply with quote

@Jake,

No that's not what I was saying. I was recommending using 5000ppm sodium hypochlorite, which is basically 13 ounces of household bleach, per 1 gallon of water. The Hypochlorite dissociates in water into both Hypochlorous acid (HOCl) and the less active hypochlorite ion (OCl-). The lower the pH, the more higher the concentration of HOCl which is much more active as a sanitizer.

So to the 13oz bleach / gallon water solution, add around 5 ounces of vinegar (acetic acid) to drive the pH down, and make the solution more effective. Research shows that at pH 4, the kill rate is like 4X higher than at pH 8.

OR use a peracetic acid sanitizer. I think you're confusing making of peracetic acid sanitizer with the chemical breakdown products. You can't add vinegar to hydrogen peroxide and get peracetic acid, it's a totally different set of chemical reactions. So you need to by that preformulated. It breaks down - as it works to oxidize and kill the molds (and really any other organic material present) - and the resulting breakdown residuals are acetic acid and hydrogen peroxide - these then breakdown into water, oxygen and carbon dioxide. Sorry if that wasn't clear.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2022 12:55 pm    Post subject: Re: cleaning mold on pop top ceiling Reply with quote

Embarassed That was supposed to be clearer??? Andy, (not a chemist)

You seem very knowledgably in this other than X-14 which I can't seem to find locally, what brew shall we mix up and how shall we use it to get awesome results?

khughes wrote:
@Jake,

No that's not what I was saying. I was recommending using 5000ppm sodium hypochlorite, which is basically 13 ounces of household bleach, per 1 gallon of water. The Hypochlorite dissociates in water into both Hypochlorous acid (HOCl) and the less active hypochlorite ion (OCl-). The lower the pH, the more higher the concentration of HOCl which is much more active as a sanitizer.

So to the 13oz bleach / gallon water solution, add around 5 ounces of vinegar (acetic acid) to drive the pH down, and make the solution more effective. Research shows that at pH 4, the kill rate is like 4X higher than at pH 8.

OR use a peracetic acid sanitizer. I think you're confusing making of peracetic acid sanitizer with the chemical breakdown products. You can't add vinegar to hydrogen peroxide and get peracetic acid, it's a totally different set of chemical reactions. So you need to by that preformulated. It breaks down - as it works to oxidize and kill the molds (and really any other organic material present) - and the resulting breakdown residuals are acetic acid and hydrogen peroxide - these then breakdown into water, oxygen and carbon dioxide. Sorry if that wasn't clear.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2022 1:58 pm    Post subject: Re: cleaning mold on pop top ceiling Reply with quote

vanis13 wrote:
Embarassed That was supposed to be clearer??? Andy, (not a chemist)

You seem very knowledgably in this other than X-14 which I can't seem to find locally, what brew shall we mix up and how shall we use it to get awesome results?

khughes wrote:
@Jake,

No that's not what I was saying. I was recommending using 5000ppm sodium hypochlorite, which is basically 13 ounces of household bleach, per 1 gallon of water. The Hypochlorite dissociates in water into both Hypochlorous acid (HOCl) and the less active hypochlorite ion (OCl-). The lower the pH, the more higher the concentration of HOCl which is much more active as a sanitizer.

So to the 13oz bleach / gallon water solution, add around 5 ounces of vinegar (acetic acid) to drive the pH down, and make the solution more effective. Research shows that at pH 4, the kill rate is like 4X higher than at pH 8.

OR use a peracetic acid sanitizer. I think you're confusing making of peracetic acid sanitizer with the chemical breakdown products. You can't add vinegar to hydrogen peroxide and get peracetic acid, it's a totally different set of chemical reactions. So you need to by that preformulated. It breaks down - as it works to oxidize and kill the molds (and really any other organic material present) - and the resulting breakdown residuals are acetic acid and hydrogen peroxide - these then breakdown into water, oxygen and carbon dioxide. Sorry if that wasn't clear.


Clear to me Laughing

Cheapest and easiest:

So to the 13oz bleach / gallon water solution, add around 5 ounces of vinegar (acetic acid) to drive the pH down, and make the solution more effective.

If you have a lot of mold, or have recurring mold, I would spray, and ensure the solution does not dry (respraying as necessary) to achieve a 15-minute wet exposure. Use a not too-stiff brush to brush everything down, then spray for another 15-minute wet exposure. Let the brush sit wet with the solution during that 15-minute exposure as well, to kill any spores on the brush. Following the second 15 minutes, bush / rinse with clean water (you can use some baking soda in the rinse water to neutralize the vinegar and purge the smell a bit sooner).

The peracetic acid approach would take care of it as well, without the chlorine smell and as much issue with fabric degradation if spilled (not as much, but still any of these things will oxidize fabrics and decolorize). These should be available at any shop that sells home brewing supplies, but won't be cheap. The process is the same.

**DISCLAIMER**
This approach will definitely kill the mold you have, but doesn't leave behind any residue that prevents future "infestations". Any type of surfactants (like in formulated cleaners) may inhibit growth for a while, but you then have to clean them off really well when you do get growth and need to sanitize, or the chlorine effectiveness will drop like a rock. It will also not hurt the fiberglass with only infrequent applications, but I don't really know how much color change you'll see, so I'd try a small section if you're concerned before going whole hog. I don't have mold issues in vehicles here in the desert, so I've never had to worry about my poptop, so I have no experience with how much the appearance will change. I've used this approach on walls, floors, and equipment in pharmaceutical cleanrooms for >40 years, so it works well in those applications.
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