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1973 Super Beetle project
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boundstaffpress
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 9:24 pm    Post subject: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

I brought home a 1973 Super Beetle for my girls’ first car. The car was a one owner. It came with the window sticker and the original sales ticket. The interior is pretty rough, and the P.O. painted the exterior with spray paint. The pan is completely rust free.
We are planning to rebuild the carb and brakes. The car has been stored inside for 10 years. It has some idle issues that I hope will be taken care of with the carb rebuild. We just got the car home so I haven’t investigated the engine more thoroughly. It doesn’t have a number stamped on the block.
Looking forward to projects with my kids.
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Justin

Building a 73 Super Beetle with my kids.
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 9:33 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

Looks like a great start.

Show a couple engine pictures, so we can give you unwanted or needed advice.

Tim
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boundstaffpress
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 9:51 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

Here are some engine and interior shots.
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Justin

Building a 73 Super Beetle with my kids.
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ricks73
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 10:07 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

Looks like a great project with the kids!
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cletus_zuber
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 6:37 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

Start with the brakes and replace everything. I strongly suggest front disc conversion. Passenger side mirror will help with visibility.
Don't let them drive any modern car before they drive the bug.
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 7:55 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

Get a stock air cleaner from the Samba Classifieds. Route your oil-filler blow-by hose to the stock air cleaner. As it is now, you have that hose routed in a break in the engine-to-body seal.

Replace that seal also. It keeps the hot air from being sucked up into your engine compartment and being drawn in by your fan. Hot air for cooling is an oxymoron.

The dash can be covered with an inexpensive plastic or fiberglass dash cap. They look pretty good.

Tim
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Rome
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 8:11 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

Starting with a nearly rust-free Beetle, if the rest of the body is as solid as your pans, is a huge bonus.

Here are some random observations:
-The center console appears to be a genuine VW accessory from the 1970's. Keep it! It's made of a thicker plastic and tends to fit better than current designs. If there is a tear in the plastic, you can glue a piece of aluminum roof flashing on the back of it, bridging the tear.
-Shift knob is also a genuine VW accessory per your new car invoice. You can sand the wood and refinish with stain and/or urethane. If pitted, the shift pattern can be partly restored by dabbing on model paint, letting dry, and repeat many times.
-Your handbrake handle is up very high. Sign of the rear brakes needing adjustment and then tightening up the two cables at the base of the handbrake. If you have a repair manual, read up on it- it's a straightforward procedure "as long as the adjustment screws and stars can be turned" at the rear brake backing plate access holes! You can also view the remaining thickness of brake shoe material through each of the two access holes.
-Can it be that your engine is a single-port? In the close-up of the "lack of engine number", the intake manifold in the background does not show the typical dual-port end casting boot and clamps, though a better photo (use the flash!) could clarify.
-There is a rubber seal that goes around the back of the engine and is attached to the body. On your car that seal is partly broken. You can replace it easily if you remove the engine, but can get by without removing the engine if you install a closed-cell foam seal from a 1970's VW bus.
-Fuel pump center pin does not have a circlip on the end which would prevent the pin from working its way out during a drive.
-Hose going from the oil filler neck downward past the engine rear tin and the body is not correct. It should go up to a fitting on the air cleaner. Your air cleaner is a simple aftermarket type.
-You can try to un-dent your engine lid. Remove it from the car, place it on the lawn upside-down, and step into it while wearing work shoes/boots. Your body weight could bend out the worst of the dents... Shocked

I'm sure you'll have fun working on the car.
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boundstaffpress
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 9:25 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

We have named the car Kermit.

As many of you have noticed, the air cleaner is a tiny aftermarket piece. I am working on procuring a proper stock style unit. I know that several of the hoses do not go where they are intended, and that the engine seal is damaged. In due time all of this will be takin care of. I also know that many enthusiasts recommend that the fuel filter between the pump and the carb should be outside the engine compartment.

I am considering a couple options for rebuilding the dash. I've tried my hand at vinyl repair with uneven success. I certainly cannot ruin the dash more than it already is.

Rome-
Thank you for the tip on the console. It is rather flimsy. I will look for VW marks, and clean it. It needs something to secure it better to the carpet.

The PO told me that the parking break needs a new cable. That is on the list. Probably when I do the brakes. Currently, the brakes are very soft on first pump, but solid on the second. According to the PO, they were completely rebuild prior to being stored 10yrs ago. I may try to rebuild the cylinders instead of replace the parts entirely. I'm open to suggestions though.

Seat covers and some interior parts will probably happen sooner than front suspension. I am thinking JBugs stock style tan covers.

The PO installed an oil pressure gauge, and an oil temperature gauge. He mounted these in a piece of thick oak.

The entire shifter turns round and round. Can I stop this?

The horn button is painted green in the Wolfsburg crest and around the outside to match the body. Is this stock? I don't see it many places.

Three questions about the following picture.
1. Where did this hose go? It comes out of the riser to the carb.
2. The alternator does not use the stock wiring. What should the correct alternator look like?
3. The rear apron is stamped with Mexico. Can anyone give a definitive explanation for this? Appears to be stock paint.

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Justin

Building a 73 Super Beetle with my kids.
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boundstaffpress
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 3:08 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

Several things accomplished recently. The carb is rebuilt. I had trouble getting the engine to idle after adjusting the fast idle control screw to the appropriate position. I followed the suggestion on this thread to back out the idle jet. The idle is smooth now. I removed the filter from the engine compartment. Gas tank is almost empty. Before I fill it, I will install a new filter beneath the tank under the fender.
The brakes have been inspected and I cannot find any cylinder leaks after 10 years without use. Soft lines look solid as well. I purchased replacement cylinders, but elected not to install them yet due to the condition of the current cylinders. Back brake shoes and hand brake cables still need to be replaced. For now, the brake pedal is still soft on the first push, but solid on the second. I am hoping rear shoes will solve some of this. I will bleed the brakes again after installation.
The most visible update is seat covers and door panels. The car will be my children's daily driver, so they all helped with installation. New denim and foam for for all surfaces. We found one broken spring under the driver's seat, and repaired it with some steel tubing. I also read that the driver's seat foam tends to collapse a bit with use, so an additional 1" of foam was added on that seat bottom. The combination of new foam and a repaired spring raised the driver's seat 3 inches. All the seats are now more comfortable.

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Justin

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Deebs
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 3:57 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

The tan door panels Applause

Looking great so far! I hope to do the same color interior on my '71 Super. Did you end up going with JBugs for your interior? I'm hoping for some feedback before I order them.

Learned something new today, adding an extra inch of foam in the front seats. Thanks.

Keep it coming!

Kyle
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boundstaffpress
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 5:10 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

I used Jbugs for the door panels and seat covers. They had the best price/shipping that I could find. Tan is a special order color, so after placing my order, I received a phone call asking if I was willing to wait 5-8 weeks for the interior pieces. All the pieces are TMI. Apparently that is the standard wait for special orders. It took a closer to two weeks, so I was pleasantly surprised. The driver's seat back isn't as tight as I would like, but I'm not sure I can stretch it farther without tearing it up.
Overall, I was happy with the TMI covers.
I used 1" x 24" x 72" foam from amazon for everything except the front seat bottom pads. Following the classicvwbugs youtube videos, the project was very possible.
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mikec4193
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2018 7:31 am    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

Love the looks of your new project...those Super Beetles feel so much larger inside the cabin that the standard ones do. Hope you guys are having fun with it.

MikeC
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2018 11:07 am    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

I’d go ahead and replace the rear wheel cylinders. You have the parts, why not use them?

The apprentice-mechanics appear to be having fun. Hopefully, when it comes time to learn how to drive a manual, the oldest won’t wish for a new Honda automatic.

The brake sponginess may be an issue with the master cylinder. I wouldn’t trust the previous owner’s word on the brakes being gone through before the car was parked. Get a good German master cylinder from Wolfsburg West. The brakes are the most important facet of the car.

Did anyone answer the three questions you asked about alternator wiring, etc.? I saw no replies.

Did you ever get the proper paper-element plastic stock air cleaner? If so, several of the hoses you mentioned go to it.

Keep up the good work.

Tim
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2018 12:15 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

I would bet that car was on the show room floor when bought new...
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boundstaffpress
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 6:52 am    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

MikeC - Thanks. We are having so much fun. This car didn't cost much, but every penny is an investment in time spent with my kids. As much as is physically possible, they will do the work to bring the car back to safe and reliable.

Tim -
No, I didn't receive responses. From reading, I figured out the wiring issue on the alternator is related to internal regulation vs external, and the vacuum port on the intake goes to the air cleaner. BTW, I have a stock air cleaner coming.

Like you, I was skeptical about the PO having the brakes worked on before parking the car, but I have the old cylinders saved in a ziplock. I don't believe the master cylinder was changed at the time. The master will be next if rear pads and another round of bleeding doesn't solve the two pump brake pedal.

Gearfinger -
I think you are right about the show room floor. The 16 year old who bought the car must have had the money to get all the shiny bells and whistles.
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joey1320
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 7:17 am    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

Beautiful car and a happy family.
Nothing beats that Very Happy
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 2:47 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

Awesome find ! Great project !

My 1st bug was a '73 Super ... in '86 as a senior in HS. Metallic purple with white interior & a Lite beer tap handle as a gearshift knob. I thought that thing was SO kool. What was I thinking?

Valve adjustment, what's that? And why are my brakes soft? Ah ... to be 18 again. Taught many to drive a stick & only took out a total of 4 mailboxes. Lol.

Enjoy the memories you are creating with your young'uns ... my 16 year old step-son only seems to care about his I-fone! You are teaching them valuable sweat equity & skills that will help them later in life.

Cudos to you ! !

We like updates & pics here ... thanks for both.

Enjoy the journey ... jinx
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VALVES (cold)
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 7:03 am    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

boundstaffpress wrote:


3. The rear apron is stamped with Mexico. Can anyone give a definitive explanation for this? Appears to be stock paint.

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My rear apron ('71 Super) is stamped "Mexico" as well, I assume that means it was replaced at some point by a PO with a Puebla-produced part?

Enquiring minds want to know...
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boundstaffpress
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 10:29 am    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

TheCableGuy - I am beginning to think the same thing. The engine tin is also not correct since it is missing the hole for the heated intake air. The paint also won't come to a shine the way the OG paint will.
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 5:09 pm    Post subject: Re: 1973 Super Beetle project Reply with quote

Yep, I’ve seen several body panels that had that stamp from Mexico. Your apron was replaced. Be grateful it was a Mexico apron. The new aftermarket ones are thinner.

By the way, under your carburetor, left side, you asked what that little thing was in the red circle. That is a vacuum nipple on your manifold. When you get a stock paper element black plastic air cleaner, a vacuum line goes from the air cleaner’s thermostat to that manifold nipple. The thermostat opens when your engine is cold, allowing warm air to flow into your air cleaner and carburetor. When the engine warms up, it will close—but will stay partially open on cold days.

The extra black wire on your alternator? I believe that goes to your archaic diagnostic system. It’s no longer needed. If and when you replace that externally-regulated alternator, just clip and tape that black wire. All you’ll need on the alternator is the big red one on the B+post, and a small one that goes from the male spade on the alternator (D+) to your idiot light on the dash.

Tim
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