‘66 tranny leak help

[WADVR]

Been a while but plugging along on my ‘66 currently. About ready to drop the body on but have been fighting this leak. Initially kept thinking I was a failure at sealing up the new boot but turns out the part it seals to and bolts to the side of the tranny is the problem. I attempted to seal it with ‘the right stuff’ a RTV that I use on differential covers, while it was still in the car but failed miserably but more than likely due to attempting to do it in the car where it is difficult to reach and ensure it was clean etc. So I pulled it apart and have cleaned it all up with brake cleaner. The leak is between the two peices that are rivited together or maybe spot welded? Leaks pretty bad and even with a direct shot of brake cleaner it blows through the gap slightly. See attached picture to understand my gibberish.

My question is: what sealant is recommended for this? I really don’t want to pull this apart again especially when the body is back on. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

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- 67 Beetle Full Resto Project
- 66 Beetle “Parts Car” Project

[glutamodo]

First of all, it is never recommended to remove those side flanges with the transaxle installed, clearance is just too slim and often time force is applied to the flanges to get them over the studs, and prying them around usually causes distortion, and ANY little irregularities in them will lead to leakage.

Now, where the arrow is pointing, should be welded together and sealed, so no leakage should happen at that spot. Leakage happens between that flange and the transaxle housing. Also, leakage would be lower than that, as the transaxle fluid level is below that point.

Now, I'd have the transaxle out of the car, but even then, considering my experience of any tiny little prybar action of the side flanges, I would (after I knew the correct thickness of gaskets for proper endplay) I would slather those said gaskets in RTV before bolting them down. I normally do NOT like using Room Temperature Vulcanizing silicone sealant, but this is the main exception to that.
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Andy T.


IMAGE NOTE: It has been noted that Chrome based browsers may have issues in displaying my vast image library, which use non-secure links and are on an FTP server. Images should still be viewable if the link is clicked though.
I do not know how to fix this. All I can say is it all works fine for me with what I use, Firefox.

[WADVR]

Thanks. the leak is coming from where the arrow is pointed. Do you have a suggestion on what to seal it with? There are several references to this area leaking from others but haven’t seen a pest practice on sealing it up. RTV of some type will probably work but wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations.

Understood about not recommending removing these in the car and I knew and was very careful to not put any pressure on these while removing them. With fresh mounts and the swing axle able to swing upward freely there was plenty of room to fish this out of place.
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- 67 Beetle Full Resto Project
- 66 Beetle “Parts Car” Project

[mukluk]

If faced with that leak, I would spray the snot out of that area and to the greatest extent possible between the two metal layers with carb cleaner, wipe clean and allow to dry, then apply Permatex Ultra-Black along the entire seam, making sure to work it as much as possible into any gaps and voids in the seam.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[WADVR]

Thanks, got it all put back together. Had the right gaskets to put the correct spacing/tension on the axle bells and sealed up the metal flange with some Permatex ultra grey. Not sure if the grey was the way to go but the guy at NAPA highly recommended that route. I sealed both the backside(inside) and outer seam plus each ‘rivet’. Going to give it the proper 24 hours cure time before setting it down and filling with oil. I also reassembled it all before the RTV cured to hopefully tighten the two peice flange together.

For anyone searching for a similar issue and fix, my flange is two peice and the two pieces were actually loosened up which was causing the leak in between the parts at the seam. I am not necessarily sold on this being a permanent fix but time will tell. I had thought about welding it together but am/was hesitant due to warpage and this being the riding surface for the swing axle bells.

_________________
- 67 Beetle Full Resto Project
- 66 Beetle “Parts Car” Project

[Bruce]

A better fix would have been to install the O-ring as VW designed it.
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[WADVR]

[glutamodo]

This is 66 right? I thought the O-ring didn't start until halfway through the 1967 model year.
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Andy T.


IMAGE NOTE: It has been noted that Chrome based browsers may have issues in displaying my vast image library, which use non-secure links and are on an FTP server. Images should still be viewable if the link is clicked though.
I do not know how to fix this. All I can say is it all works fine for me with what I use, Firefox.

[Bruce]

I'm not sure when the O-ring started.
I do know that the two piece flanges use the O-ring. It could be that later tubes were installed in the OP's 66.
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[WADVR]

Interesting. I had to check the ‘67 axles that have (117502***) and the flanges are one piece. The axles are the proper longer length.

The axles in my ‘66 are definitely short axles so it is strange that they are not the early one piece flanges.
_________________
- 67 Beetle Full Resto Project
- 66 Beetle “Parts Car” Project