Replacing power steering rack

[Nickel_Nackel]

Hi,
I have a awful power steering leak. Started about 6month ago just adding a tiny spoonful to keep it at max but now it will drop around min in less then a week of light driving. I can see the leak drops (especially parallel parking). if I keep the reservoir topped off the pump won’t get damaged ? This like an $800-$1200 fix from my local mechanics. So I’m wondering if it’s an easy weekend job? Are there any tricky parts where I might need a specific tool That I can’t buy at an auto store? Or should I just bite the bullet and pay a mechanic. I know this is really contextual but I guess I’m asking what did some of you do if/when you needed to replace ur power steering rack?

Thanks!
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1985 1.9L Potato

[SCM]

$1200?! F- that, it's a super easy weekend job. Here's the write up I made when I replaced mine. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=532490&start=20

There's a great chance your pump is already toast, sending pieces of metal through your hoses and rack (which may be the cause of the leaks at the rack) so I would just budget for a rebuilt one. It's very important to flush the system before hooking up the new rack to avoid ruining the seals on the new rack.

You may need a pickle fork to remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles. I don't remember if I used one or not.
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'91 Westfalia GL Automatic (GTA "Turbo" Rebuild w/Peloquin) and 2.3L GoWesty Engine

[Nickel_Nackel]

Okay thanks that a great write up.

I think I can handle this.
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1985 1.9L Potato

[Nickel_Nackel]

I’m ordering parts now but it sounds like all I need is:

1. Power steering rack with pinion
2. Power steering pump
3. Ps filter
4. Pickle fork


Is that it or is there some things I should replace while I’m down there? Does the rack not come with bushings?
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1985 1.9L Potato

[?Waldo?]

I didn't need the pickle fork.

I would definitely take this opportunity to install Powerflex rack bushings. I'd actually take the opportunity to install all new Powerflex bushings all around... you're going to need it aligned after all, but the rack bushings at minimum.

You're also going to need some fluid.

[SCM]

[AndyBees]

I rebuilt the PS rack on my 84 (from an 85 Westy wreck) and the rack on my 89 Carat. I did both of them this year. They work just fine... weekend job, plus alignment as stated.

Note: This would be a good time to look at front suspension components if they've got a lot of miles on them, considering the investment in the alignment.
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'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[mikemtnbike]

Seems like it'd also be prudent to replace the long lines while doing all the other work...don't see that on your list.
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[dabaron]

[SCM]

Don't the long flex lines to the PS rack require custom fabrication at this point (i.e. NLA)? It is a good idea but at some point the snowball effect needs to be kept in check (I say this as someone who's wife is pushing for a home remodel project ).
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'91 Westfalia GL Automatic (GTA "Turbo" Rebuild w/Peloquin) and 2.3L GoWesty Engine

[AndyBees]

Although probably possible to change the PS hoses without removing the fuel tank, but I believe it would be a lot easier just to remove it which is a major additional step. Or, it may be possible just to lower the tank a little to insert the replacement hoses. (I just did all this recently, but my hoses were new as of about 5 years ago. I did remove the tank completely for other purposes.)
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'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[dabaron]

[IdahoDoug]

Unless you are in an area with bad salt corrosion etc or see obvious weathering on the long lines, I'd just replace the rack. I did this a couple years ago and it was crazy easy and fast. The rack is completely unobstructed on this vehicle and you have to remove nothing else. I put new tie rod ends on since I was loosening them, and new factory rubber bushings where the 4 bushings mount to the back side against the frame.

Totally easy, a 2 banana rating. Do hit the metal hose line connections with quality penetrating oil, do have a proper brake line wrench so you don't strip them, and when the lines are off, repeatedly fill the (cleaned/no filter) reservoir and let the clean fluid gravity feed the lines. Then put in a new filter and refill.

Then put the $800 you saved into your kid's college fund.

Doug
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[mikemtnbike]

Vanagain has a really nice replacement kit on the lines too, and as usual a handy instructional video on the job itself.

Doug, I guess I just assumed that everybody's lines were rusty like mine...east coast bias rears its ugly head again.
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[dabaron]

[Jake de Villiers]