Clutches - what pressure plate with what throwout bearing

[EddyWill]

[z33taxi]

I wish I saw this thread a week ago. First time owning a beetle and I have definelty learned to buy parts for the beetle you own not the beetle how it was stock. I have a 71+ engine, but the original trans. SO what did I do? Buy a 71+ clutch kit. Installed it and magically it even drove for a bit. Now I'm dropping the engine again and using the old pressure plate.

Correct PP

Incorrect:

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My 1968 1600SP build:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=665936

[z33taxi]

Tips on inspecting PP?
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My 1968 1600SP build:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=665936

[Cusser]

[EDragnDean]

How do you remove the centering ring?

Photos of my PP.

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63 Double Cab http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=443823&highlight=deanos
66 Bus Click to view image - SOLD
73 Thing http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8111202#8111202
70 BusClick to view image

[Zundfolge1432]

[ashman40]

[Pogel]

Bus had no engine and the PO put in a centering sleeve but left the old clutch shaft for the bearing. I want to take off the centering sleeve and use the pressure plate style with the ring. Does the sleeve unbolt and will taking it off affect the seal?

[Pogel]

I found out that you can unbolt the sleeve. However I left it on and used the correct arm, throw out bearing and ring less clutch.

[[email protected]]

Hey Glenn, it looks like your “late” pictures are no longer showing up in the original post.

[Cusser]

[[email protected]]

Must be my phone then. If you look in the “quote” portion of the images, the early ones are samba gallery links, while the late ones are from Glenn’s personal site.

[DJ Pierre]

I did the old to new style conversion last year(CSP). I boke the clutchfork for the second time(Stage2 clutch..) so i decided to install the stronger version arm and do this upgrade. All went well and clutch was perfectly fine afterwards.

But after 1500 miles i got a massive tranny oil leak and suspect my mail shaft is leaking badly. The oil was coming from the bellhousing and the rest of the tranny is clean. It's definitly gearbox oil, it has a very distinctive smell and taste.

I suspected the sleeve to got loose, i've seen a picture of that happening. But all is well and tighty.

I'm not sure what could be the issue right now. The bellhousing was soaked with oil and i'm lucky the clutch kept working.

Only thing i can think of is the main shaft seal went bad. I think there is one inside the sleeve? I forgot what it looked liked inside. I had to order a puller to get the sleeve off so haven't looked inside just yet. Why would a seal go bad this quick??

I really want to address this before I put the engine back.. Hope someone can point me in any direction?

[Cusser]

You need to determine whether the leak is engine oil or fear oil from the transmission. Gear oil has a distinctive smell.

Most leaks from that area are from the crankshaft/flywheel oil seal and flywheel O-ring; oftentimes too much engine endplay is involved.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[DJ Pierre]

I was able to get the sleeve off. All looks fine to me but I will source another seal for it. Weird..

[DJ Pierre]

[ashman40]

While you have the engine out, take some time to look for cracks in the transmission case there in the bell housing. Rare, but possible after decades. I'm pretty sure you could use a propane torch to warm up the case surface and look for weeping oil. Though, I've never tried it on the transmission case.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[DJ Pierre]

I think I found my issue. The new shaft doesn't seat deep enough. The circlip didn't hold the arm in place causing it to move sideways when operating the clutch. That causes the seal to open up and leak. I will be reinstalling the system and shave some of the copper bush installed in the startermotor side to get the shaft in place properly. Right now it just wont go deeper.

[DJ Pierre]

I think it's fixed now. The brass bearing sits quite differtent than original, quess that's is what went wrong. I can't say i like the way the arm sits right now but the spring appears to stay in place just fine. All works smooth and sits nicely centered. Should do it!

These are some mockup shots, the end result is better of couse.. I'm thinking of shimming the brass bearing and using a spacer to get it all line-up(and look) a bit better. Not pleased with this fit as is...

[revhead]

This thread is great. So I’m going through on early 65 trans setup with a 68 engine. I owned this since 1984 but it’s been sitting since 93.

As you can see it has the old style parts and a 9 spring heavy duty pressure plate (from a bus at the time I think). This setup was great and I’d like to keep it.

While rusty the pp looks ok and springs are all still ok. Looking for specs on pp thickness as well as flywheel thickness to consider just resurfacing. Obviously the clutch disk will be replaced. Since these parts don’t mix well and I’d really like to keep the 9 spring this might be best if possible.

🙏