Back in a 68

[volkz]

picked up another bug, feels great to be back! I have a couple of things to work out on the car.
running to hot, engine bay seals are intact. Any tips on how to fix warping tarboard? its touching on the fan intake, just on the top edge. its still free on the sides of the circle and bottom.
someone has put in bellhouse engine tin that has the spot for a doghouse oil cooler vent. should I block that off with with some tin? Since my 1500 doesn't have a doghouse. could this be a source of hot air coming in?

car has a SVDA 034 distributor with electronic ignition and a pict 30-1. which I have read is a very poor combination because it ill not fully advance. I have a rebuilt 205m distributor in the mail which I will run with the pict30-1.

other than the overheating and dieseling that is going on the car runs and drives great with no flat spots. Not currently driving it until I can get the temperatures down.

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1968 beetle
1970 beetle

[Lingwendil]

Nice looking car.

Get us a few pics of the engine and we can help advise on things a bit better.

Definitely replace the shroud with the correct style, or, even better would be to convert to a doghouse cooler. It'll help the car run cooler and also still appear stock.

Good call on changing the distributor, the vac-only distributors work very well when paired with the correct carb.
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73 super beetle thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=649622 Back on the Road!

Modify your Kadrons for SVDA http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8115884#8115884

Cast iron VJU4BR8 SVDA reference thread- https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Need replacement filters for original Kadron aircleaners? WIX #42087 is a perfect fit, as is Napa Gold #2087!

[gt1953]

Do add some more photos of the engine area. Never knew they had an orange color in 68...probably a repaint. Over heating...do a tune up then check back on the heat.
_________________
Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[ashman40]

Disconnect and plug the vacuum hose for the distributor. Run the SVDA as a 009-clone until your 205M comes in. Set max total advance to 28-32BTDC @3800+rpm with a strobe timing light.
With vacuum advance disconnected, rev the engine until it stops advancing and set to 30BTDC. This should be good enough to drive it around. Take it for a test drive. Adjust timing up/down a bit to your liking. It may be low on power and may even have hesitation on acceleration, but you don't want to go more than 32BTDC as your max total timing.

If the distributor is an original VW 034/205 SVDA ("GERMAN" stamped on the underside) KEEP IT! They are getting harder to find.


Any large opening in your engine compartment that would allow hot air from the underside of the engine to re-circulate into the engine compartment will contribute to over heating. Even the gap caused by old rubber seals around the perimeter of the engine tin is enough to cause measurable higher temps.


For the tarboard... there are small wedge shaped prongs along the firewall of the engine compartment. These need to be straightened out and pushed thru the tarboard and bent to hold the tarboard to the firewall. Many of these may have rusted off over the decades. You need to find another way to keep the tarboard away from the fan shroud opening. Spray on adhesive or even double sided tape that can handle the temps in the engine compartment will work. Some have even gone as far as sheet metal screws thru the tarboard as a solution.


If you make the three changes above, you may find it runs cooler.
As a workaround, use the "tennis ball trick" to keep the engine deck lid open while you drive. The increased cool air will significantly improve engine temps. But this is a workaround.
If you have a stock 1500cc engine, the stock cooling system should be sufficient.
If you have a 1600cc engine (larger than stock for '6, the solid deck lid could be restricting your cooling capacity. You may have no choice but to use the tennis ball trick all the time.
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AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[volkz]

Thanks for the great points ashman.

Its an original 1500 H engine case but the last owner said he had it rebuilt to a 1600 but of course he had no proof what so ever. My car also had a recent " $3000" paint job that started flaking after the first hand wash car I did.

I completely forgot about the tennis ball trick for cooling I may just do that.

[/img]
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1968 beetle
1970 beetle

[joey1320]

Please don't drive the car until you remove/replace the warped tarboard. You'll destroy the engine with the lack of airflow caused by the board blocking the fan.

You have an opening on the front tin for the preheat, please block it off.

Please remove the fuel filter from the engine compartment.

Follow Ashman's advise.
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**1971 Super Project
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

[67rustavenger]

Your tar board is crap.
If it were mine. For the time being. I'd remove it all together. It's definitely blocking the cooling air flow to the engine.

You should install the warm air duct to the air cleaner. From the rear breast plate to the right air cleaner snorkel.
Speaking of fresh air ducts. There are seals available that seal the ducts to the breast plate.
The doghouse exhaust penetration through the forward engine tin. Can be converted to a cooling air/ram air inlet. By affixing a length of fresh air duct to the opening and routing the duct forward and low in front of the engine under the car.
That way while driving. Cool air will be forced into the engine compartment. Glenn (Mr.010) has a similar setup on his DD super. I'm just too lazy to search for the pics of his setup.

Your generator is clocked incorrectly. The posts should be at the 2:00 position.
The way it's clocked now. The generator cannot cool properly.

Do the filter thing as suggested.

Good Luck.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[67rustavenger]

One other thing. Your engine compartment seal is warped and should be replaced the next time you have the engine out. You know to properly install the tar boards.
I recommend the "Z" later style of seal. I put one in my 67 and it fits well. Your car being a 68. The seal would fit better.

Good Luck.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[gt1953]

Your vaccum hose from distributor to carb needs to have more of a loop in it to prevent fuel from damaging the vacuum pot.
We are just trying to make it right for you.
_________________
Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[David_nc_72std]

You are also missing the hose from the oil filler to the underside of the air cleaner snorkel, without that you can end up with a mist of oil in the engine compartment.

Something else to check, since the engine tin has been replaced, make sure you have the correct cooling fan, I'm not sure of the specifics, but there are different size stock fans.

[STEAK_BUG72]

[quote="gt1953"]Your vaccum hose from distributor to carb needs to have more of a loop in it to prevent fuel from damaging the vacuum pot.
We are just trying to make it right for you.[/quote you need a part called a Shepard’s hook.
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OFY!!!

[Lingwendil]

[volkz]

alright! ripped out the failing tarboards and I got the Dist. swapped out with the proper 205m and timed with gun. The dieseling on is now gone which makes me super happy! running cooler as well now with the timing changed.

one question is the timing 205 all I could find was this

"Timing Set At:: 0deg TDC Static or @800-950rpm w/strobe w/vacuum hose disconnected and plugged
Advance/Retard Range: Vacuum (Advance Only): 17-19deg @ 1.3 In. Hg, 32-35deg @ 3.2 In. Hg"

not really sure...but What I have right now is started with tdc static then 20 degrees after tdc at 2800 rpm with vacuum hooked up. runs good no flat spots or anything.

Is what I have it set at okay?
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1968 beetle
1970 beetle

[ashman40]

[tasb]

[volkz]

hey so just an update, thanks for the help.
The distributor in question is a 113 905 205m I timed it with the canister plugged at 0 degrees TDC and checked it with a timing light at 900 rpm. took it out for a spin and when I turned the engine off it dieseled on like there was no tomorrow! I then set the timing at about 6.5 degrees with it plugged at idle, and well the dieseling is gone now completely. I Will be getting a new rebuilt 30 pict1 carb over the winter with a power circuit fuel cut off. I am currently running a empi 30 pict 1 clone with no cut off. The car runs great as of now no hesitation and engine is running at normal temperatures. I feel like the fuel cut off will solve the problem and I will run the dist. back at 0 degrees timing wise.

[ashman40]

[joey1320]

Can we bypass the distributor as the issue for just a moment and inspect the rest of the engine?

What's your fuel pressure?
Valve gap?
Spark plug condition/gap?
Carburetor clean/adjusted properly?
Vacuum leaks?

You seem to be targeting only the distributor without any mention of the rest of the parts/systems that work hand in hand with it.
_________________
**1971 Super Project
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

[67rustavenger]

[volkz]